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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About jrbet83

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    Pasco, Washington
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    Jared Betker

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  1. So spend $300 on a race trigger job and then turn around and spend another $170 on a hammer, sear and disco? So essentially paying $300 to put springs in it and a little polishing?
  2. So it looks like the consensus is, it’s not good lol. Now what do I do about it? The Smith wants to ship it back to him, which is commendable and the costumer service/communication has been good. My concern is that it’s pretty obvious (through messages) he thinks it’s a good trigger job and even referred to SA as crisp when he finished it. Being that when I sent him the gun, I asked for the best production gun possible, all the bells and whistles and put no financial limitations on him. I’m worried, if he’s already sent me the best he can do, why waste more time giving him another shot? I’ve brought up the idea of discussing a refund (minus parts), which I thought was fair. He’d be out no money, but he didn’t seem to keen to that. Am I being unreasonable? What would you do/suggest? Send it back, ask for some type of refund or eat the $300?
  3. Paid a reputable smith to do his top tier, full race trigger job, with my number one priority being a crisp SA. Here’s two videos showing the trigger. Personally I think it’s worst in person than in videos, but hope to get some feedback on realistic S2 trigger expectations. First video shows slow trigger pulls, second shows quicker ones, to show it’s not just when you’re babying the trigger. Also I realize that the first part of the trigger movement is the take up (which I feel is slightly more it should be with a hand fitted short reset disconnector, but’s that’s not much a concern for me). https://streamable.com/m0kql https://streamable.com/y8muc
  4. Any recommendations on someone who can remove the wearing factory finish and put a finish on my Ti carrier?
  5. Can some example the difference in these two set ups? https://benstoegerproshop.com/cz-sp-01-shadow-2-carry-optics-23-1-complete-magazine-kit/ https://benstoegerproshop.com/cz-sp-01-shadow-2-carry-optics-3-gun-6-magazine-kit/
  6. This was the best sectional yet, which is saying alot, because our sectionals are always pretty outstanding.
  7. there you go Kurt......that's what you wanted right? Another replay from Kurt where you try and make the OP look stupid but don't actually give any useful information. Kind of your MO these days. But yes you're right, I'm a benelli expert, that's why I got on a public forum and asked for people's opinion and advice. Enjoy being up on that pedestal. But you're right, the issue is probably a non issue, being that I'm "assuming" under recoil, the shells in the tube float for just a split second, giving the shell catch a little head start. Plus with the rearward movement of the gun, the bouncing effect is softened. But that's just a guess. Just odd that different shells act so differently. And that my two stock benellis with stiffer springs don't do it at all.
  8. Reading, it's tough for you old guys I know. Have you tried cheaters, heard they help. "just worried it may be a precursor to a future problem" I'd rather figure out it's a non issue or get ahead of a possible issue before it shows it's head, not after. I will say through tinkering, in case others have this problem, I added a smaller interior spring to my shell catch (kind of like the versamax). Solved problem. Thinking maybe my new shell catch spring is a little soft (hopefully just got a bad one). It's a fine line though, too much spring pressure pinches shell against frame too much and causes a different problem.
  9. Thanks. I was more referring to the shell bouncing forward so far. Under recoil the gun runs fine, just worried it may be a precursor to a future problem. Or it's completely normal. Just odd that some shells do it and some don't.
  10. I guess you know it's a good one when two days and no opinions.
  11. When the shells released from the tube, it's going back, bouncing off the plastic that's part of the trigger assembly. It's then bouncing forward tell it hits the part of the shell catch that actually catches the shell (pretty much the front on the shell is almost touching the follower). Odd part, Remington sts and high brass don't do it, Win AA don't do it too bad, Federals do it the worst as described above. Obviously this is just in manually shell releasing/cycling. But with the shell being so far forward and the added leverage, it will lock the bolt back tell you give the follower a little push vs the STS (that's always all the way back, shell touching plastic stop on the trigger assembly) you can ride the bolt home (trying to get it to lock back and you can't do it, works everytime). Gun has brand new shell catch spring and tube spring.
  12. The longer spring is actually a lighter spring. Just for an fyi.
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