FlightMurse

I started using slide glide and love it. Hoppes for cleaning.

You have it right. I have an autococker that I used to use and it could lay down some paint when I wanted to. I understand that it might not be ideal when going for a 400 yard shot, but you could get your split times down for bay matches.

There are a couple of ammo companies, mainly freedom munitions, that make their brass on a type of machine that skips a couple of steps. This leaves a ledge in the case about half way down on the inside. If you do a google search you can find some pictures of it. The headstamps I have run across are "Ammoload" and "*IMT*". As previously mentioned the area at the edge of the ledge is a weak point and the case can separate leaving the front half stuck in the chamber and a trip to the gunsmith.

While unpacking boxes the other night I ran across my old paintball gun and it got me thinking. Why haven't we seen a double trigger on an AR? Speed ball and 3 gun type matches have a lot of similarities with movement and speed and I found the double trigger far faster to run. While we are at it why no electronic triggers?

I don't know how I picked up on it but my non-dominant finger keeps finding its way in front of the trigger guard. It happens more when I try pushing too hard on speed.

Sorry, I didn't mean to assume. Just trying to pass on some helpful tips.

Good choice on the Forster dies. You should be good to go with the Lee press and I would definitely not upgrade to another O-ring type single stage. If you wanted to get more precise the next move up would be to a Forster Co-AX or an arbor press. Consistency in your brass is going to be huge also. If you are able to police all of your brass Lapua is worth it in my book. If not find some Lake City and weigh them into similar groups. It helps to keep them all on the same number of firings also to keep the neck tension similar between the rounds.

I use Forster dies and have great luck with them. What is more important than the dies though is a way to quantify the work you are doing. How are you measuring your OAL? You need to use some sort of comparator (Sinclair Hex or Hornady, etc.) to measure to the ogive of the bullet. Hornady also sells a tool to measure the shoulder of the case that is worth picking up. Precision rifle reloading is absolutely maddening. The best advice I have received is to only change one thing at a time. Find where your shoulder wants to be, then once you have that down measure your throat and start loading .02 off the lands and play with your powder/charge. Once you find out what works then start dialing in your OAL. It just depends on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. Check out German Salazars "The riflemans Journal" online. He has forgotten more than I could ever hope to know on precision shooting and loading.

Nice scope. I have a HS-T 6-24 and it has taught me a lot about what I do and don't need in a scope. Might I make a recommendation to pick up a torque wrench for your mount/rings? Harbor Freight sells one for around 20 bucks and it works plenty good for mounting scopes. Just make sure you pick up one in in/lb.

I know remington has a cult like following with the Rem 700, but I humbly suggest you get online or into local shops and look for clean used savage with the accutrigger. They are definitely ugly, but I think they are one of the best values in rifles. I picked up a new 10 FLCP-k for dirt cheap (one advantage of shooting lefty). Put on a Vortex HS-T (same glass as PST but without the IR. If you don't need FFP its way cheaper). and a set of Forster dies and it is an honest half moa rifle. If I do my part and the wind is right it will dip into the .20's for a 5 shot group. Keep in mind that your rifle is only as good as its weakest point. Don't skimp on your rings and bases!

I tend to count all of my brass due to nothing other than being OCD. I have found the best way to count brass is use the plastic inserts that come with a box of .45 acp ammo. Put your brass into a big container and scoop them out with the plastic piece, and boom you have 50 pieces. The brass tends to fall in headstamp down so I run my fingers over the brass and make sure they are all the same caliber (very obvious if not) and check for cracks. Then place an empty plastic thing over that one and flip them over to check your head stamps. Then put it in the stack (or container if you only have a couple) and count out to 16 to get your 800 pieces. Should take all of 5 minutes

Way to go! I started shooting skeet last year to prep for ducks and it is a very humbling sport. My biggest accomplishment so far has been shooting my first double. I hope some day I can match your 25 straight!

I pull out any Ammoload, IMT, or any of the stepped rounds. I sort all of my brass using the plastic that came in .45 acp boxes of ammo which makes this very simple. When you put the rounds in the plastic headstamp down look into the case and these rounds will have a step half way down the case. I throw these into a separate box and will load them when I know I will loose the brass, but I have seen enough pictures of cases separating at that location that I don't trust them for multiple reloadings.

Thank you for the reply. I have a CMMG dedicated .22 with a better-mag adapter and use mp 15-22 mags. This combo works very well for me, but it really needs a 4.5'' barrel and a can. I would like to get a 9mm AR that takes glock mags as an sbr at some point as well and would like to find the most economical way to do the tax stamps. I guess if it comes down to it two stamps isn't the end of the world.

I have a leatherman Juice CS4 and love it. Small enough to carry yet big enough to get jobs done.

What holsters are you guys using? I normally carry a G19 in a RCS Phantom and have a Tucker cover-up for my PM9. I think I would like a kydex holster with one larger clip. Also, I might as well order my TTI base pads while I am in the blue label waiting line.

I ask this question to those far smarter than me. Would it be possible to take a .22lr upper and convert it to work with a glock 9mm lower and use advantage arms or tac sol magazines?

My vote goes to the T1. You get plenty of battery life and they are just as durable as the Comp M4 but in a much lighter package. Get a larue mount and a tangodown cover and you are set!

Interesting read. I just picked up a CMMG dedicated .22 for playing at the range and my buddy has a 15-22 with a CMC trigger in it. I am not sure I prefer either over my 10/22 but I will have to get the three of them on a timer and see what comes out faster.

I was going to mention the paintball connection as well. We had a similar booster set up at our field.

How difficult would it be to add some math to this? Perhaps you could add a timer and a rounds per hour?

Unless he has changed since I took a class with him a couple of years ago it is a Safariland. Funny story about the holster. We had a very loud and obnoxious guy in the class who loved telling us about every other class he has been to, how experienced he was, blah blah. When Vogel was discussing his gear this guy attempts sarcasm and asks "So what does safariland think of you chopping up their holster?" Bob just turned to him and said "They made it for me", and at that point I knew I took the right class.

I wonder if they could make the straight pull 1911 trigger trip a striker instead of a sear? If this is production legal I fear the glock/m&p/Springfield will be dead.

I have a tlr-1 mounted on my AR and it works very well. You could see what the glock light is going for also.

Has anyone had their powder die back off on them? I noticed some lead shavings on the shell plate and it seems my crimp is gone. I guess I need to reset the die again.