FlightMurse

This is good advice on here. When I bought my first 1911 I didn't know any better and bought a Kimber Custom 2. Although it has been reliable, I really wish I would have known better and bought a STI.

No, you should use the full length sizing die every time you reload a case. Redding makes one of the best dies out there. The key here is to have as much consistency as possible. I would recommend you pick up a head space gauge (hornady makes a good one) and bump the shoulder back .002. This will decrease the stress on the back and make chambering the round much easier. Here is some info to better explain. http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2009/08/reloading-headspace.html http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/06/basics-resizing-case-dimension-changes.html

I have to transport to and from the range, so what we do is use 6 8" plates on shepherd's hooks. You can line them up like a plate rack or set them up however else you want. If you want them to fall you can turn the hook around and set the plate on top of the arc (square hole, square pole) so when they are hit they will fall down onto the hook. Kind of a pain to reset though.

They are all about the same cost. I went with the DAA Racemaster watch and I really love it. You don't have to mess around with looking at your belt to check times or reset it.

I had every intent to purchase a MI but that AGL looks sweet and far more economical for a .22 build. Plus the ID is enough to allow a suppressor under it!

If you frequently wear ear plugs or ear buds your ears will produce more wax, and like mentioned above the plugs push the wax further back.

Is it the TR45 the darker lens? I am really looking into a pair but I am very light sensitive. I might have to give the G20 you speak of a try.

Just make sure they color-coordinate with said shooting specific shoes and pants...

Sounds like you picked up a nice rifle! I would look into bedding the stock, although the HS Precision stocks have an aluminum block that the action sits on they still benefit from a proper bedding. Other than that you should be good to go. Look into a good rest, avoid the lead sled type and get a Sinclair or similar. If nobody in your group owns a spotting scope they make life a whole lot easier. Also a good tip, when you are using the hornady OAL comparator get a wooden dowel to use some opposing force on the tip of the bullet as you press it into the chamber. By using one hand on the tool and one hand on the dowel it is far easier to get a consistent measurement.

That right there is why I read this forum. Real world practical advice! Thank you sir, and sorry to hear about the blister.

Definitely get the roller handle, strong mount, and a primer chute. I haven't messed with a conversion yet as I shoot mostly 9mm so I can't help you there. I don't know how practical it is for your reloading area, but running an outlet to the ceiling above your bench is really nice to keep extra cords off of your bench.

I tried a 4.0 with a factory striker and had a lot of problems with light strikes with CCI primers. I now use a 4.5lb spring with federal or win primers and it has been 100% since then. This is in a Gen4.

Figured it out. If anyone else runs into this problem it is a 5/8 .5" long button head bolt.

I was loading away on my 650 last night when my unique tek primer chute popped off the press. I thought factory screws looked short and should have trusted my gut, but it looks like I stripped out the base of the holes. How long of a screw do I need to get to get my press back up and running?

Well my new bullets came in today and I got to spend an hour or so loading. First growing pains have popped up. First thing that happened was I started having real issues with my case feeder not dropping cases, and two instances of upside down cases. After checking it over I realized that when I reset the powder measure the powder bar was hitting the case feeder tube. Stupid mistake for not checking this. Then the real pain hit. My spent primer tube from inline fabrication popped off in the middle of reloading. It seems the very short screws that came with the kit stripped out the base of the holes and I can't reattach them. I guess that I need to go to the hardware store tomorrow and pick up some replacement screws and hope this doesn't happen again. I knew it was too good to be true...

I guess it could depend on what type of bullet you are loading, but one would think even a TMJ would shave some copper off of the bullet. I load moly-coated lead (bayou) and no expander die equals shaved bullets, which equals terrible accuracy.

Does your powder measure have a baffle in it? In my experience with titegroup in a RCBS uniflow the baffle made a big difference in consistency.

I just wish I could find somewhere to shoot at 1k, let alone 1500+.

Good idea on the XS powder bar. I think for these 100 I will just use my uniflow to measure out the charge. I honestly don't see myself changing unless I can compete at a high enough level to justify the increase in cost. Right now the ammo has nothing to do with my lack of ability.

I hope that you have a room worthy of your press at your new location. When we moved I took all of my guns and ammo in one trip in my civic, that poor car was definitely not happy with me.

After reading some reviews on here I decided to add 100 160gr bayous to my last order. Any advice on a starting load with titegroup? I don't know if it is worth economically to switch from 135's but I might as well try.

I was just in the exact same boat, been using Lee dies in a single stage and picked up a 650. I figured what the hell, try the Lee dies that have been working perfectly fine for the last 5,000 rounds and see what happens. I don't have any complaints so far, just use the Dillon die rings that come with the press, the Lee or Hornady rings are too thick to work on the 650.

I would imagine a kitchen scale would be your best bet, plus it really is better to weigh dry ingredients when baking anyways.

From my research it isn't as much about "latest and greatest". Each press fills a different niche for different needs. If you are only loading 1,000 rounds a month in 4 different calibers then even if the 1050 was the "latest and greatest" it isn't the right press for the job.

I am still very new to the 650 game and have only loaded 1000 rounds on mine so far, but I ordered the "how it should be" which came with the roller handle. I haven't tried the alternative but I think the Dillon roller handle is worth it just for the aesthetics. I also installed the primer chute from inline when I initially set up the press, it works as advertised and I have no complaints.