peterthefish

Haven't used one but have almost pulled the trigger a few times. Now that I have a dedicated open rev no need but probably the closest thing you'll find. You basically install your rear sight onto the base. Return to Zero for your optic will depend on your mount I suppose. What dot are you using?

It looked like they used purple loctite - less holding power than blue. Heat won't hurt. The best insurance against stripping is using a quality hex bit instead of an Allen wrench. I used my Wiha set and didn't strip a one. However, I did need to buy longer ones than what the thumb rest came with - shooters connection carries them if you need.

My same load (3.1 RS competition under a 147 SNS FP @ 1.145) runs my PSA 16" great and makes 975 FPS / 145 PF instead of 135 out of my handguns. Shoots soft as can be and so quiet that the loudest noise is the buffer in the tube.

I have a trap club nearby and would like to know how to set this up but I can't visualize it. I'm guessing a rubber band around your ejection port? Birchwood Casey makes one too.

I prefer the Center Axis Relock technique. I think the downside of your technique is that you lose the ability to take follow up shots, although I guess the upside is if you loss the weapon the assailant might become confused when it doesn't fire.

It's not about impulse. There is no* recoil until the bullet leaves the barrel. The firearm is a closed system. You are just blowing up a balloon. You might change the center of mass, but again, any feel from that is negligible. Once the bullet leaves the barrel all that matters is momentum of the bullet, which is transferred to the barrel. Heavy bullet, light bullet, fast bullet, slow bullet, it's purely a momentum game. However, ceteris paribus fast powder = less powder and heavier bullet = less powder, and less powder = less gas escaping = less recoil. A complete burn just means you're maximizing efficiency (using as little powder as possible) and also reduces the pressure wave which reduces discomfort. *there is some recoil caused by gas escaping past the bullet but it is negligible.

There's a head to head steel match in RI April 17th. http://www.wallsofsteel.com/match-schedule.html . It's informal but a good crowd and probably the closest match you'll find.

SNS 180, 1.170, 5 GR N320

But he said Kumquats! There should be a forum rule against the invocation of exotic fruits. Mangosteen!

I'll add one more bit. Most air rifles (vs BB guns) will be heavier and recoil more than a youth .22. My first rifle as a kid was a Beeman R1, and it was heavy. It turned me off from shooting for a while.

Frick got a Savage Rascal when he turned five.

No it doesn't. Unlike a straight wall case which has a small section of carbide, a 9mm sizing die is tapered, just like the case. The reason it's wasp waisted is because it is sized to minimum spec. Yes. Just make sure that you have adequate neck tension.

Mike I will try to remember pics tomorrow. But assuming you have another N frame that fits and some calipers, start by measuring the widths of the front of the trigger guards. I think you'll find the problem starting there.

My N frame insert (magnetic style) needed some minor filing to fit my 929. It fit every other N frame I had (627 PC, 627 V Comp, 629s, 625) fine. The front of the 929 trigger guard was maybe .003 or .03 thicker than the others. Once I fixed that with a little , I realized the sliding insert was not well shaped and was actually binding on the side of the trigger itself. This kept my guns from snugging into the block as well as they could. Fixed that by relieving a small section of that block and now all my guns fit the holster better. I'll take pics tomorrow if you're interested.

I'm not aware of many executive positions where being a nice person is a key qualification. In fact, sometimes, when it comes to getting things done, you have to be not nice.Anyway, I guess the Lannisters have been proved wrong. A lion should concern itself with the opinion of sheep.

This.

I prefer to catch it in my shirt pocket.

The ATF has no way of knowing what ammo you purchased, period. The call was most likely spurred by random checks on multiple sales forms - your number came up. It's happened to me. Bringing ammo into this is a red herring.

Ignore reloading basics like plunk testing and even your Scorpion might get stung. Folks who say "but the OAL of my reload is shorter than XYZ factory ammo" rarely would just empty a round of factory ammo, measure the charge weight of that unknown powder, and apply that weight to a completely different powder. But that's what OP is doing here RE: bullet selection...

They're not. I don't get the same consistency or accuracy from them as I do from SNS or Blues. All they're useful for to me is sneaking in reloads to a factory ammo only range.Don't know anything about coated bullets .. Never tried them and don't plan to. I've shot over 70,000 Extremes in the last 3 years (147s and 115s) ... 3-4" groups off-hand at 25 yds all da long without working all that hard at it .... I have found them to be as accurate as you'll ever need in practical shooting and when you buy in bulk the price can't be beat .... YMMV .... I got decent groups in my Glocks. In my Apeiro I am lucky to get 3-4" at 7 yards. Coated work great on both, and the prices definitely beat Xtreme when bought in bulk...

This. Usually from testing trigger pull with the side plate off during trigger jobs.

Duty coat valor in 9mm. Sploosh.

I'm assuming he meant the die lock rings, not the bushings. Yes, you can use Hornady lock rings on any standard size dies.

Great advice here. You see all the fastest shooters doing a press-out on the draw.

I have the PC and if I could do it again Id do the JM.