peterthefish

Assuming you are not in MA, it would need to be transferred to an MA resident by an MA FFL. MA laws are strict. There is a roster of handguns approved by EOPs, another list of approved target guns (the STI may be on this list, they have added newer guns), and a super secret list of guns allowed to be sold maintained and enforced by the AG. Some dealers lawfully get around the AG issue by selling and transferring frames and slides separately. I wouldn't hesitate to sell to an MA resident with the caveat that you are responsible only for getting the firearm to their chosen FFL unless they ask for the standard capacity mags - in that case I probably would not sell as STI doesn't have pre-bans and the buyer is clearly ignorant of MA laws and likely to be more trouble than they're worth.

I've got the same dilemma, also using the LNL AP. It's really necessary to separate the T/C, and I much prefer to keep the lockout die. I came to the same conclusion.

I would keep at least one of the damaged pieces of brass or loaded but corroded shells. If you hand it over you are unlikely to get it back. You probably won't need them, but if you do...

That is what I had initially thought. My reloads were 1.135 OAL. The factory I was using was 1.13OAL. I dropped my OAL down to 1.125 and I am still having the problem. Unless your reloads use the exact same bullet as the factory ammo you're looking at, then the OAL of the factory ammo is an irrelevant data point. And by exact same, I don't mean same weight. I mean same weight, same manufacturer, and same profile.

Based on insulation between joists you definitely are outside the thermal envelope. It will likely be stifling in summer - less so if you have Windows on the other end and can get some cross ventilation. When you finish it I'd do what they call a hot roof, spray foam insulation applied to the underside of the roof deck to bring the attic within the thermal envelope. Spray foam insulation is a job for pros and a bit pricey, but worth it. Nice space !

Your reloads are probably too long for the leade of the PSA barrel, especially if no problems w factory ammo. Plunk test. I use a SPARC 2 on mine.

If the attic is outside the house's thermal envelope it will be hot in the summer and cold in the winter. It is not comparable to a garage or basement. My attic hits 130+ in the summer (I'm in New England) and ambient outdoor temps in the winter. You can't just open a window and get some breeze either. I definitely would not store reloading components in an attic long term.

Are you using the USB cable that came with them? They are carry picky about what USB cable they work with.Yes using the supplied cable. At first I would have to hold the cable into the glasses port at a specific angle for it to connect then that even stopped. Frustrating because other than that I liked them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk More likely it's a cable issue than a port issue. Could try a new cable, or I'll take them off your hands...

Assuming your leaning towards setback? You can see the base of the bullet in the case - looks like more than enough neck tension.The brass is clearly corroded - appears copper leached out along that line. OP - send those pics to Winchester too. I haven't seen anything like that in factory ammo before. I've shot a good amount of WWB 45, and if I recall correctly the cartridges are packed in the box side to side, two rows per level, with cardboard separating the levels. I wonder if the cardboard or ink in that separator caused the corrosion? Was the outside of the box in good condition or waterstained? If the box had gotten wet, I wonder if some type of Galvanic corrosion may have occurred. Lucky for you and Winchester that you didn't lose an eye from that primer.

Are you using the USB cable that came with them? They are carry picky about what USB cable they work with.

Glad to hear it helped. I get some flak from the mods around here for not contributing or something like that - nice to have a counterpoint I can refer to.

They can have whatever kind of disclaimer they want. Manufacturers of defective products are liable for Bodily Injury and Property Damage stemming from those defects. If you have co-pays I would submit them. If you have any residual loss of vision they should compensate you for that as well. Personally, I'd avoid an attorney, but I work in the system.Doesn't look like an OOB to me. That would usually result in the case head blowing out with horizontal cracks where the brass starts to thin. I agree it looks like a defect in the brass. Save the box, save the brass. If they want it returned, I would return it subject to the condition that they return it to you when examination is complete and that they only do non-destructive testing.

If your Hornady measure came with a baffle, try taking it out and see if that improves metering. I found removing it helped with some fluffier powders like TrailBoss.

And slide glide is Lucas Red n Tacky. Thoughts?

I'm sure that much of the 95% markup goes to marketing...

Surprised there's no love for Ramshot Competition yet. I use that, N320, or e3. Nowadays I save my N320 for 40, so mostly Ramshot Comp. Clean too.

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/302999-Frog-Lube-is-Coconut-Oil-You-heard-it-here-first?p=4899527#post4899527

They're not. I don't get the same consistency or accuracy from them as I do from SNS or Blues. All they're useful for to me is sneaking in reloads to a factory ammo only range.

Codes not working on the 2nd charger...

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Sage advice. Also, you may need to clean the barrel to remove carbon fouling first. As someone who doesn't clean much this was a surprise.

Occupied

Is it a throating reamer or a chamber finish reamer.

Are you getting chips out. You need to apply slight pressure to the reamer.

Thank you.