michael.flitcraft

I’ve found a basic barbell program to be wonders, but as Tony mentioned, form is critical. It is also important on machines, but machines do the stabilization work for you and are rarely compound exercises, meaning your overal strength doesn’t increase as fast as with free weights. Barbell weights can also be increased in extremely small increments (most gyms have 2.5 pound plates, you can also buy micro plates), while dumbells increase by 10 pounds typically after 20lb (5 lb per hand = 10). Watch some videos by Mark Ripptoe (great series on here - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QhVC_AnZYYM ) and check out the 5x5 Stronglift app for your phone. It has built in rest timers, tracks your stuff, and will determine if you’ve hit a platoue and how to break through it. The paid version is cheap and has some other really nice features with an overall simple interface. They do have videos of form as well. Expect to hit the gym 3 days a week, taking 1 day rest between days 1/2 lifting, and 2 days after the 3rd day. It’s extremely simple and effective. This is coming from a guy who runs chainsaws and tosses logs for a large part of his work day.

Has anybody sucessfully moved a case activated powder dump over to the priming station? If this is possible by either threading the toolhead, or using a bushing, then a powder check could be installed where the powderdump traditionally lives, while maintaining a bullet drop and seperate crimp/seat stations. I doubt I'll have the chance to look into this, especially since I have no other powder drops to check function with, but this would be a wonderful thing if possible without a whole new toolhead like what Immortobot/CNCShooter have available.

Most are the same. I’d look at https://reloadinginnovations.com/collections/dillon-650 and snag their spill stop while you’re at it. It helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can buy the WIlson trigger bar (same piece they use to get this). Essentially it has a raised shelf geometry to hold onto the hammer hooks longer, resulting in a longer hammer arc and more kinetic energy.

Already moved along. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Sig needs an extra power hammer spring (reboudning hammer) - my Beretta could have benefitted from one if I was going to keep it around. Using a different brand that was softer would likely have made for 100% compliance with the Beretta (which is interesting, since they usually light off ANY primer)

Maybe. Gun and primer dependent- my Beretta will light off S&B small rifle with 90% reliability, P226 more like 60%, probably less with a striker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Color you failed cases with sharpie before inserting into the case gauge. The sharpie should rub off, letting you know where the problem exists and give you a clue of what needs to be done to address it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You won’t notice anything Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried backing the die out? It may be so tight that it’s trying to swage the brass down, but can’t due to the hardness of the bullet (especially if it’s a jhp, which it looks like). You aren’t necessarily looking to crimp much at all, just enough to remove any belling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It will pigeon hole you into a mostly unsupported system with a sole provider of material. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries, just was hoping you'd clarify since they're different powders. Didn't want someone reading incorrect information and getting into trouble with it.

Which is it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re running borderline powder charge, there’s a strong chance that two shooters with different calibers of recoils management will have 2 different outcomes. The one with better recoils management (or a carbine) will run reliably, but the one with slightly less will have feed or extraction issues. The diameter likely plays part of this in your situation, and upping the powder charge 1-2 tenths will probably fix the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With the clutch in the case feeder, I sincerely doubt it can deform brass. That looks like a downward force from a ba or circle was applied, not from the case feeder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk