peterthefish

No that's not the case. You can pick your own gender or change it day by day if you feel like it. That's why this whole issue is so tricky any time you reference gender instead of sex. I agree that's the current progressive POV on the topic, but I'm not sure that 30 years ago anyone would disagree that they're the same thing. Personally, I shoot an open gun but identify as a production shooter - please score me there!

Again, every town or municipality (authority having jurisdiction) has their own fire code. They may, or may not, adopt the NFPA as their code. Moreover the AHJ may have procedures for getting an exception to the code. Some towns adopt the NFPA restrictions on residential powder and primer storage. However, residential violation of fire code is typically a civil matter and the fire marshall doesn't have the power to enter your house and verify your compliance. On the commercial side most retailers will have permits. There is no single law that governs storage of primers, smokeless powder, or other hazardous materials. The NFPA code is a model code and industry best practice. It may or may not be the law where you are.

That is incorrect. Spring weight is calculated based on weight to fully compress. Number of coils is a variable in the calculation.

Better off buying a spare lifter and having it welded up by C Rums. Or chance it with SkyTac, just make sure you chargeback before your CC issuer closes the chargeback period when you don't have it yet.

Most municipal fire codes incorporate by reference all or part of an edition of the NFPA codes and standards. Id start by googling "NFPA primer storage", and end up here; http://www.saami.org/specifications_and_information/publications/download/SAAMI_ITEM_201-Primers.pdf

You're getting "warm". My powder measure is dead on and I have good chrono data on N320 so I'll be chrono'ing the mystery rounds. Of course even loading below book N320 (which is what I'm doing), we're at least at the max for N310. Coated lead is pretty slick so pressures should be a bit lower than with FMJ. Lead also obturates better allowing less gas blow by and thus higher pressure than FMJ - one reason lead max loads are typically lower than FMJ. Fortunately coated lead are typically pretty hard cast so probably somewhere in the middle. Good luck!

I use CCIs and haven't had any problems in mine. Pistol primers are typically a good bit softer so you should be fine. If you have issues w reset (appears to be limited to certain triggers) a non-ramped bolt will fix it.

Mixed some up? Or not sure what's in the measure? Load a round or two using N310 load data and see if you get what you expect.

I'm not aware of any HO policies that apply the firearms sublimit for lost but not stolen firearms. The language in the sublimit is "loss by theft" for the most common HO policies. Plain loss (like "I lost my gun") would not be covered under most HO policies because it's not a specified peril. Theft is only covered up to $2,500 absent an endorsement, vs fire where it's up to your personal property limit. The HO-5 is an open peril form, but changes the sublimit to "loss by theft, misplacing, or losing". The only coverage a homeowners policy offers for firearms over the common $2,500 sublimit is for losses that also damage the house - fire, floor, etc... Scheduling your firearms on your policy is probably the most expensive option to get coverage.

I have one - no complaints and it's nice to be able to find a position that feels natural.

Renters / Homeowners Rider is more expensive (3-4x) than the Lockton NRA Affinity Program. If your collection is over $5K the Lockton program is probably 2-3x more expensive than other alternatives. I have a policy through Eastern Insurance in Boston. Minimum premium is about $120 / year for coverage of $35K, and I believe only items > $10K have to be scheduled. You should still be including the cost of your firearms in your contents limits for HO / Renters insurance.

I assumed it was just polished - mine is the same way. It's not really a wear area so it doesn't worry me.

The standard basepads are flush with the bottom of the Dawson Ice Magwell. Definitely no good on the clock. You can always just buy the Dawson basepads later when you get the Magwell.

Try metal form mags. They really keep 9mm rounds from moving forward until they are being fed. Unloading the first two rounds is actually tough. Dawson mags are just private labeled Metalforms. They work in my Sig & DW 1911s, and they're cheap to boot. I'd get them from Dawson directly if you're running a Magwell - you'd want the extended basepads.

Try running your minor loads around 140 PF. You can try to get down to a 7 or 8 lb recoil spring to go lower (the comp bleeds a lot of gas / energy so you need to go way low on recoil spring) but you can then run into issues w the slide choking as it tries to chamber the next round. So far the minor loads I've put together see the dot bouncing a lot more than my major loads and probably slow me down...

As the prior poster noted, this is incorrect. Kinetic energy is not conserved in the collision between the plate and the bullet because the collision is not perfectly elastic. Momentum is the relevant measure here and is conserved in the collision. Whichever bullet has less momentum after the impact with the plate will have transferred more momentum and will do a better job knocking the plate over. I'd guess if you threw an 8oz beanbag at a plate at 125 PF (35 mph) it would drop where it hit (all momentum to the plate). Heavier bullets tend to come back much slower than lighter bullets, so anecdotally heavier objects transfer momentum better and are better for plates. Every time this thread comes up I get an urge to build a ballistic pendulum with a marker to measure max height and at least bring some data to the discussion.

While it's nice the NRA policy defended you, it's absolute negligence on the part of the attorney handling it to not inform you. If you are named and they are defending you, they owe you the same duty they owe the club.

Fire Protection is a real field of work, and industry standards for safe storage of most flammable materials, like smokeless powder, have been established. Sodium Bicarbonate is not involved.

If an incident occurs, expect the shooter, ROs, CROs, MD, Range, and sponsoring organization (USPSA) to be sued. A homeowners / renters policy with liability coverage and an umbrella policy is your best protection. In a perfect world the range's or organization's policy would defend participants / volunteers, but I wouldn't count on it. The costs of defending even a frivolous claim would cause some financial pain for most people - think $5-$10K. And I wouldn't hope for the plaintiffs attorney to do any due diligence on your assets before naming you in the suit. A final determination of who's actually responsible would probably take years and a lot of dough, and no waiver in the world will keep you out of the fray.

That's the upper I have. I was going back and forth on getting a comp, but without it and using my minor loads (more like 140+ PF out of this) it recoils about the same as my compensated .223 - barely. I can't imagine the comp making a big difference. If you don't mind me asking- what buffer are you using with it? In most of the blowback guns I have tried the bolt traveling back and forth seems to account for most of the disruption to the dot or sights. Either way if it feels comparable that is a good thing for those of us using ARs- we haven't really seen yet if the gas or roller guns will prove to be as advantageous as the HK/SIG fans suggest.After browsing a few of the NFA heavy forums it seems some people feel that a shorter barrel, even with a permanent muzzle device, is preferable to the longer barrels due to pressure in the barrel being released earlier and less gas finding its way into the action and out the ejection port. The problem there in light of the ATF's flip flopping on muzzle devices is coming up with a way to achieve this that isn't excessively heavy or suppressor-like. I have a friend looking for an upper, so assuming the 16" chamber is in spec I may use that for his build and play with a shorter barrel and permanent muzzle device for comparison. Whatever PSA included in their lower build kit - I think it weighs 4.9 or 5 oz. I have a pistol build too and the 16" recoils softer. I think partly with the extra weight up front. However, when I was first loading for the pistol I used 115s and 124s with slower powders - I was worried about a squib running a faster powder like N320 in a blowback gun. Running 147s w N320 takes away all muzzle blast which just makes it a much more pleasant round to shoot. On the timer my splits are the same at 25 yards with the 9mm and the .223.

That's the upper I have. I was going back and forth on getting a comp, but without it and using my minor loads (more like 140+ PF out of this) it recoils about the same as my compensated .223 - barely. I can't imagine the comp making a big difference.

Shot Timer.

The force applied by your recoil spring to put those rounds into battery is not so high that you need a screwdriver. Hold slide firmly down range in left hand, slam right hand into frame to break the jam. My guess is CBC brass is your culprit. CBC and certain bullet profiles will jam a tight chamber every time even at OALs that work with all other brass.

930 JM. It's cheap, setup OK (although you'll probably at least want to weld / replace the lifter so he keeps his thumb) and gas operated so softish recoil.

What's your thought on brightness? Just got one and it leaves a lot to be desired on a bright day.