longbeard
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Everything posted by longbeard
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That's what I thought as well. I've flushed it well, but am going to flood it really well tonight with brake cleaner and get the air compressor on it. If that doesn't fix it I will remove it and see what's under there. I will report back.
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I have been saying sear when I meant to say disconnector, and "screwing in" when I meant backing off the screw. I'm a pro at such things sometimes The distance is decreasing. The set screw needs backed off to move the disconnector back as it is over timed. I posted the video at the point they discuss the timing. Mine is always good when I reinstall. Then several thousand rounds later the disconnector has moved forward just enough to make the disconnection point sluggish or even fail.
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I'll tear it down again tonight. This is driving me insane.
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I know what you mean on the clearance. I'm very sure I have been diligent on the clearance there, and have watched the video many times. I'm confident whenever I install it that it is correct. In this case the sear has moved forward every so slightly. If you were installing the trigger you would want to turn the set screw a 1/16 or clockwise to move the sear back. Seems like wear would lessen the amount of contact between the two not increase it? The clearance has definitely changed. The only variable that I can come up with is the sear spring, but it would have had to extended to move the sear forward. I don't think springs grow when they wear?
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Update: I really love the feel of this trigger, but I have a recurring issue that is driving me nuts. After a few thousand rounds I lose the sear timing. It's happened three times now. One day I pick it up and it just won't reset reliably. I investigate and find the sear is slightly over-timed on the hammer spur. The set screws are definitely loctited very well and are not moving. The pin holes have no noticeable play. I have sprayed some brake cleaner in there to remove any grit. I am stumped. Has anyone seen this? I usually apply heat and reset the trigger and all is good. This time I may just have to yank this out and put in another Hiperfire.
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9mm + 16" barrel. Not a lot of energy left over to make a comp work. Search the forum and you'll see a lot on it. If the barrel is threaded u can buy one off ebay for $25 to judge for yourself before making a larger investment. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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General consensus has been that a comp does little for 9mm PCC performance other than making it louder and cooler looking. At least on the AR9 platform. I personally just use a thread nut now on my mine to avoid adding more weight. I would be surprised if the Ruger were any different.
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One was a PSA from my first PCC. It broke within the first few range sessions. The other probably had a good 8-10K on it. Same thing. Just split. It was a Spinta. I don't have either of those bolts anymore. I haven't broke a CMMG yet. I do a lot of dry fire.
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I've gone through two in one year. My buddy one.
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I have always used: CMMG AR-9 Firing Pin Spring for 9mm AR Rifles
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I know little about the Ruger PCC. I would suggest that the majority of the division is made up of AR9 and Sig MPX people, and that those platforms have a wealth of knowledge, parts support, and DIY customizations available. You can readily get support here on those guns. That would be the advantages. That being said. For all I know. In six months the Ruger will be the new unicorn of the sport, andbutI would have a hard time steering anyone towards something besides these at this current point in time. As far as dot bounce, etc... I couldn't tell you. At a quick glance, I don't see many tuning options other than your load.
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What is your favorite load for your PCC?
longbeard replied to MrPostman's topic in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Tough question as the chambers across the many manufacturers vary greatly. I'd recommend you do a push test on yours before loading any ammo and discovering it's too long. Ask me how I know -
Coated
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A KV pencil barrel. It's generally good for another 100fps over the ULW.
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Yeah. I'm in the range of 155. I tried lower charges, but anything under 3.0 grains feels sluggish, and the dot doesn't return making for larger spreads. That load out of the ULW is in the 130-135 range. It could come down some, but I leave it because I load 125 with the same charge. Surprisingly the velocity barely changes. Not surprisingly the felt recoil is different. I chrono'd this mulitple times as I was surprised. I felt like the 147 may have had a marginally better return. I am still experimenting. 125/3.2 Titegroup = about 132 out of the 16". 125/3.2 Titegroup = About 120 out of the ULW which I use for steel
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For my ULW I use the Taccom 3 stage buffer and a JP Carbine .223 spring to produce a nice 2" pattern. I get similar on the KVM barrel with the Blitzkrieg/Smalley and JP 308 spring. 147/3.2 Titegroup To me it sounds like everyone is saying the same thing. Me personally.... On a .15 split... I see the dot rise and fall on both shots, but cannot redirect shot two. It lands where it lands. I call where it landed and decide whether it was where I wanted it or not. Some may call that second shot a sight picture. They are correct. There was a picture. I was unable to change it substantially, but I did see it. Some may say that makes it a double tap. They are correct as well.
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I use both regularly. I prefer the reflex, but only marginally. Neither impact my results significantly.
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Not really. I keep things simple and use the same loads through both of my PCCs. The 16" has a higher PF than the ULW, but it's really not a big deal. You can go nuts trying to make different loads for two guns IMO
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Agreed! I built the second so I could tinker and not worry about not having a match gun.
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Out of the ULW I currently shoot. 147 SNS/3.2 Titegroup for around 140pf 125 SNS/3.2 Titegroup for around 120pf (steel load)
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It won't be too light. I shoot mine regularly and switch back and forth between it and my 16" KV PCC. The balance is different, but I don't think one has a substantial difference over the other in performance. The recoil is different. The ULW has a quick impulse, and is also louder. Perhaps the dot moves more, but it comes right back. I don't think you can go wrong with the ULW. I love mine, and shoot it a lot. Remember that it's easy to get caught up tinkering in PCC, and while changes to your rig do have an impact there aren't many that make up for just shooting what you have more.
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The longer barrel will produce a faster velocity than your pistol on the same load. I use both a 147 and a 124 load. Both work well. Personally, I find anything under 3gr of Titegroup to be sluggish. Currently I use 3.2/147 and 3.2/125 out of my 16" barrel. Both produce similar dot return. The 125 is softer on the shoulder. The 147 is close to 150pf. The 125 is about 132. Out of my ULW the 147 is around 140 and the 125 around 120. Hope this helps. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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This. And cheap screws. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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It's a regular occurrence on the AR9 platform. Possibly caused by too light of a buffer spring setup or too hot of a load, but most likely from cheap craftsmanship. I would steer you towards the Taccom bolts for PCC. Get the upgraded gas key
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I am as well. I recently moved to the JP 223 carbine spring in the Taccom system. It really changed single sight picture shots for me. They're crazy close. I have the hiperfire as well. Hadn't really noticed that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
