al503

My 170's hold 29 to 30 depending on the guts. One holds a tight 31 (and it still fits the gauge). My 140's that fit the gauge for limited minor hold 23-24. The 140's for open with 11mm grams pads hold 25-26. You should try to get at least one big stick that holds at least 29, if you can. The capacity of the 140's aren't as important.

That's what I needed to know. Thanks for the info.

The 2011 SV steel grip is like the square STI polymer grip. They look similar but there must be some difference(s). I actually had an SV open pistol with the steel grip but never holstered it.

I have a clamp on lamp from IKEA. Its led bulb is small (1.5" or so) on a flexible neck so you can get it in anywhere you need easily. It was $15 and I can move it from press to press in a few seconds.

B.S. For that money he should be happy in every aspect of that gun. That is one that somebody at the shop said " its good enough". It is a custom gun and should have alot of hand fitting with no slop. My factory dvc open that I bought for 3k is tight as can be and it for sure did not get the attention that a full custom gun gets. I would not shoot that thing at all! If the builder says thats normal then I would not want to own one of his guns. You are in Svi territory as far as price aren't you? Dump it and get a Svi. Also I am not sure why people would lock or delete this thread. Does this site want to protect a company from a screw up like this? +1 +2. That's not acceptable for a custom $3400 let alone a $4400 pistol. Anything north of $3000 should be reliable and accurate, with a nicely fit slide/frame/bbl. This isn't a cosmetic tooling mark that didn't get buffed/blasted out. The whole, 'this one slipped through' or its a 'QC issue', misses the point. A pistol shouldn't be built like that in the first place, IMHO.

I have an older Guga Ribas (see attached picture) holster from about 2005/2006 IIRC (not the newer GR/Ernie Hill model.) Does anyone know if the SVI Steel grip will work with the older Guga Ribas? I know that the DAA Racemaster has two separate inserts for the polymer STI and the Steel SVI grips so there must be some slight differences, at least. I'm thinking of getting a new pistol (actually trying to talk myself out of it, lol) and would like to know if I have to get a different holster for it.

Sorry for the thread drift but n105 will make major with a 124/125 grain bullet. I did it with a shorty with 4 poppleholes (Brazos Pro SX) and it was 169+ PF. I could have gotten a couple more tenths in the case, also. If you don't have bbl holes and/or longer bbl, you won't have any issues making major.

It depends on the length/weight of the bullet. With 124 gr MG JHP's, 1.2" isn't an issue. With a shorter bullet like a 115 or 121, you might have some issues at that length.

Have you tried taking off the top end, inserting a mag, and seeing if the trigger bow rubs on the mags (as you work the trigger back and forth?)

I think you should load as long as your chamber and mags allow as long as you have no issues with setback. That'll help keep the initial pressure spike down as much as possible. I run SV mags. 125 zeros at 1.19" and 1.2" with 124 MG's. With bulkier powders, IE compressed load, I load them slightly longer.

Yup. Push a squib rod/wood dowel into the opening. You should feel a spring compress if you press hard enough. If you don't, take it apart and clean it up. There is also a set screw that allows you to align the markings on the die towards you. Make sure that it has some sticky wax on it so it doesn't move after you've adjusted it.

My guess is that it's an SV from the lack of screw (and threads) in the lower diamond. Your best bet on an insert is probably to put a WTB and see if anyone has a cracked/molested/thinned too much grip and pull them from it. If you can't find one, I'd just stipple and blend it in as best as you can.

9mm is a tapered case. Some refer this as the 'coke bottle' effect. What you're seeing is normal and actually a good thing in that it helps prevent setback.

Brazos Zig Racker on my limited pistol. It comes with the ball and detent in the racker itself so its easy to take on and off. Even if you just wanted to use it only for table starts, it definitely helps.

Yup. I say, why not? I have them on any new build.

Measure only the ones that are loaded when all the stations in the press are full. Put another way, if you have a 6 station press, don't measure the first 5 and don't measure the last 5. Also, check to make sure the primers are at least flush/counter sunk.

To rule out a return to battery (v. a c-more) issue, I'd load one round at a time from am mag by slingshot and shoot a group.

I use blue. Never had one come loose.

Check to see if you have a brass or a black rubber tube on the primer slide where the primer slide actuator is. If its rubber, check for damage, elongation. Check and see if the primer slide is going back all the way to pick up the primer from the tube. There is a half moon shaped stop at the rear held in by an allen screw. Play with the length of travel. Pull the aluminum inner primer tube and push a qtip through it with the black plastic primer rod. You might have gotten something in there that's gumming up the works. I would also consider taping a light bullet on top of the plastic primer rod (that trips the low primer warning buzzer). If that isn't the issue, take off the bullet. A little extra weight on the rod might not be a good thing in case of a kaboom.

Cut up an old mouse pad to shape and slap it on with some 3m double sided tape.

I agree with RiggerJJ. I've never measured the shellplate but some here claim that the shellplate for 9mm and .40 are interchangeable. You may not have to change the shellplate. Even if you do, its very simple and will take about 2 or 3 minutes.

I think it's used to change the primer punch.

Have you tried putting the new guts in the mag tube that you're having issues with? That would narrow the possible source of your issue. You can also load up the mag and strip the rounds out with your thumb. The next round should pop up instantly. If you notice any delay/sluggishness, you probably need to replace the springs.

If you're having fun, stick with the 17 in production. It's only scored minor anyway. Shooting .40 is the minimum caliber of limited/limited 10 to shoot major. If you want to shoot limited division, then most would suggest shooting .40. I would shoot some more matches and see what everyone else is shooting. Ask them questions. Most are more than happy to talk about their pistols.

I use the 9mm FCD without the guts set up in in a station on a 1050 and it gets the widest part of the base of the case only ~.001" larger than a new WWB round. I had a casepro but sold it when I found that out. The casepro didn't size the rim either. I don't have any experience with push through sizing.