al503

There can be big differences in bbls, even 'identical' bbls from the same manufacturer in terms of accuracy and/or velocity. Unless you're ok with just going for the max load, which will probably make major with a little cushion, your best bet is to start low and work your way up in terms of the charge. Access (buy or borrow) to a chrono to check the velocities is a must. You may also want to determine if your bbl and magazine will accept a longer OAL than 1.125". In general, the longer you can go, the lower the initial pressure spike and that usually translates to a 'safer' load. Do a search for 'plunk' here. It takes a little time and work but that's the beauty of rolling your own. You can tailor your ammo to your comfort/liking/preferences.

Depending on how loose it is, I'd start with the simplest. Try some red or green loctite. If that doesn't work, peen the bottom of the sight with a starter punch and then loctite it.

IIRC, the Dawson +2's added 6 or 7mm and they rarely come up for sale. Taran Tactical makes a +7mm. It might be with a try to see if a grams 11mm fits the gauge with or without a little material removed from the back of the feed lips.

I know you didn't ask about different powders but if you're going to go there, the safest way is to go with the slowest powders. 3n38, n105, or AA#7 is what I'd try. Also, load the cartridge as long as your mags/chamber will handle.

The only thing I liked about the 43 stock trigger pull was how crisp the break was. The pull was too heavy (I'd guesstimate something around 8 lbs), though. I did a very light polish on the stock parts and it seemed to drop it around a 1/2 to 3/4 of a lb or so. I then got the TTI connector and I would guess the pull is down to 6 lbs, which is perfect for me for a carry pistol. Besides the pull weight, the trigger has just a very slight amount of creep right before the break. The only way I can quantify it is that it has noticeably less creep than a vanek trigger but a little more than the DK trigger in a g34. You probably won't notice it when shooting it, though. Long story short, its a very worthwhile upgrade.

Unless your spring is too stiff, the slide stops when the recoil spring tunnel hits the guide rod head. You don't want the spring to fully compress prior to the spring tunnel hitting the guide rod head. An easy way to test that out is to take the rod, spring, and plug out of the pistol and compress the spring all the way down until the plug hits the head. If the plug stops short of that, trim a coil and repeat until the head and the plug touch each other.

I've loaded the 220 grains at 1.24" OAL with SPP. Barrel: 5" Schuemann Ultimatch bull bbl that wasn't throated/freebored. 1.25" plunked in but I went with 1.24" to make sure that the rounds wouldn't drag in the magazine. 4.25 TG was 171.8 PF 4.3 WST was 175.5 4.45 Solo was 176.2 The WST and Solo loads showed very slight pressure signs with the pistol primers. I eventually settled on 4.1 of WST as it was the most accurate and consistent. PF was 170 and the ES was 22 FPS, with no real pressure signs.

Its not too fast but too hot. TG is one of the hotter burning powders. In addition, some of the coated bullets smell a lot more than others even with the same powder.

Try MGM targets. I think the last 100 pack was about $18 for shipping.

Get the STI. For me, SVI short is a titch to short and the medium is a titch too long. You can make the STI any length (and shape) you want and you can easily DIY.

If its just starting to loosen up/has just a little slop to it, hard chrome or another finish might tighten it up nicely. If its beyond that, accu rail is probably the best way to go. Welding up the slide/frame and re-cutting it might be ideal but that sounds very expensive.

Here's the conversation: Thanks for the quick reply. Many IPSC/USPSA Open division shooters (including me) used this when it was available. You might consider putting a Facebook post asking if there is any demand for it. I think you would be surprised. Thanks again. Al On Mar 13, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Powder Valley <reload@powdervalleyinc.com> wrote: I haven't heard that we are going to carry this powder. If we do, we will put it on the website. Thanks, Powder Valley 620-229-8685 From: Al Suh Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 3:57 PM To: reload@powdervalleyinc.com Subject: Vectan Powder Just wondering if SP2 is available from Vectan and if you guys ever plan on carrying it? Have a great weekend. Thanks, Al

I already have but the more, the better. AA#7 feels as good (maybe slightly softer) as SP2 but its not as clean.

Rescomp 138mm tube with the older TTI follower and spring and 3mm TTI basepad. Exactly. Rescomp tube with Bolen guts and 3mm basepad. IIRC, I remember hearing something about Manny winning a stage at Nationals (or some major) where he was the only one that started the stage with 23. Everyone else had to make a mag change and that was about the difference.

There are 22 round .40 mags and 24 round 9mm magazines. The capacity advantage would only be just over 9%.

Great. Don't forget to sight it in before shooting a match.

That'd be my guess, also. Before you start removing material, I would make sure that the slide stop and barrel lugs are well lubed and see if it will go into battery easier. A little resistance right before going into battery isn't a bad thing. If it still won't go into battery without a lot of force, you can then take a little material off the barrel lugs and/or slide stop. Go very slowly and check the fit frequently.

I will search again, BUT I tried Limited gun 6" vs 5" / Limited Gun Barrel length, and several other derivatives and Zero came up, any input on what I should search under? thanks. Jeff Try 'sight radius' You'll get several '5 or 6' or '5 or 5.4' threads.

More is always better when it comes to the number of mags. If $ isn't a concern, get a bunch. However, I don't know of many situations where you're going to need more that 1 big and 3 short (or 2 big and 2 short) sticks. That's ~90-100 rounds and enough to drop and forget for the classifiers I'm familiar with.

I checked every case for the split. Find one, pull the bullet, waste a primer. Just not worth the hassle. If you're retired and have nothing else to do, then it might be worth it.

I'm surprised that going from 10 to 9.8 lost so much velocity. Did you use the same chrono/fresh batteries/was it windy?

After the second loading or so, I had a couple per hundred split the middle. The rims were fine but it seems like the walls were not very uniform. I think I shot them about 4-5 times and shot them in a lost brass match. Starline is the way to go.

Just set up in the press. Not pushed through.

I had 2 casepros and sold them as brass run through with the FCD was around the same diameter. Further, the brass was only ~.001" larger than factory WWB.

Bullet length, your barrel's freebore, and whether you're running spacers in your mags or not, are going to be the big factors. If you're running spacers in your mag, I'd start at something around 1.165" If you're not running spacers, I'd start at 1.2" Load a couple of dummy rounds at those lengths and see if they'll pass the plunk test in your barrel. Reduce the OAL until it does. Make sure the barrel is clean with no fouling. Once you have that length, load up the round in a mag and slingshot it into the chamber a few times. If the OAL doesn't shorten more than .001", you're good to go. I run 124 MG JHPs at 1.2" if the load is not compressed (AA#7 and SP2) and 1.21" if it is compressed (3n38, n105). I've found that there is enough bearing surface to prevent bullet setback even with repeated chamberings. Setback is less of a concern if you're running a compressed load, for obvious reasons. The longer the OAL, the lower the initial pressure spike, which is important for 9 major.