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Everything posted by fastlane604

  1. I have a Gen 5 G34 MOS and have had many CZ 75s, Sp-01s and Shadows. However, I have only handled (not owned) an S2. The G34 will fill up your hand more. Most likely, it will feel bulkier and not as comfortable as the CZ. Does that mean the CZ shoots better than the G34? Not necessarily. I am growing to like my G34 more and more. It has been a love hate relationship. However, trending more towards love.
  2. I have a Gen 5 G34 MOS. My second ever Glock. I bought a G17 several years ago and quickly sold it because I didn't like the trigger and consequently did not shoot it well. Shot mostly CZs since the first glock. All had good to exceptional triggers from CZ 75 SA to SP-01, converted SA only, to P-10C. All were modded. Pull weights ranged from 3 to 3.5 lbs. I had to go to Tanfoglio sear springs on the SP-01 to increase it up to 3 lbs. In short, all were much better, in my mind, than the stock Glock trigger. Understand, triggers likes and dislikes are highly subjective., I bought the G34 because I wanted a long barrel and MOS. I worked on the trigger myself and improved it some with a polish job and a spring change. I converted all my CZs to flat faced triggers so I bought the Apex flat face trigger with trigger bar and Apex connector. I could have bought the trigger shoe alone and had the same results. Pre-travel was reduced a little. Pull weight did not change. I had to do the polish job all over again because the Apex trigger bar and connector were not polished. The Apex flat face trigger shoe is very wide. Wider than I like. I still had quite a bit of pre-travel. Also, reset was longer than I was used to with my P-10C. Pull weight was 3.75 lbs with creep. Some call it rolling break. It is creep to me. I agonized over ordering a Johnny Glocks trigger for several months. I had already spent over $100 on the Apex system and did not want to tack on another $200. But, I wanted a quicker reset. I ordered the comp trigger and I have made one range trip with it. Pull weight is 3.25. Pre-travel is much shorter and reset is very short and positive. Creep is reduced but is still present, however I can live with it. My accuracy is better with this trigger and my follow up shots are quicker. I did not buy the JG flat faced trigger and with this system I don't miss the flat face. All in all, I am very pleased with the Johnny Glocks trigger. In retrospect, I should have spent the $200 to begin with. 4
  3. Yep. Johnny's triggers use OEM parts and mods are internal.
  4. Thanks for the suggestion. I guess taking it down and putting it back one more time can't hurt anything.
  5. Same thing happened to me. Put an HBI trigger in my P-10C and it works great. Put one in my P-10F and it won't reset. Put the OEM trigger back in and works like it should.
  6. I see. My DPP has the 7.5 Delta. I would be going the other direction on dot size. Sometimes I feel like the 7.5 is a little big. Although the point on the delta is very nice for the long tight shots. Thank you.
  7. Sorry, triple post. Getting late.
  8. I too have the DPP. I've been thinking about another optic. What is it about the 5 MOA SRO that makes you like it better than the DPP?
  9. I too have the DPP. I've been thinking about another optic. What is it about the 5 MOA SRO that makes you like it better than the DPP?
  10. I appreciate the opinions. And I know, at least one is very well informed. I would like to think there is a little bit of pre-travel. However, that is not what the website, rangerproofswag.com, states. And there is an explanation as to why. Is there anyone on this board that acutally has one?
  11. Does anyone have the Long Ranger trigger or the Task Force Ranger trigger for Glocks by Ranger Proof Swag? Failing that, have you shot one? The website advertises these triggers as eliminating all pre-travel. In practice is that correct? Is there no pre-travel at all?
  12. jwilk and zzt, Thanks, you may be costing me some cash.
  13. fastlane604

    P-10 F Open gun

    I am beginning to give thought to a building a P-10 F Open gun for steel challenge type events. Since there is no power factor requirement, 9mm works. I would use a slide mount optic and probably buy a barrel/compensator combo, maybe from Primary Machine. Can a slide mount optic be competitive in steel challenge? I know the trigger is not going to be in the 2 lb or less range, but that is OK. I prefer 3.5 lb triggers. Is this viable, or just a waste of money? Thanks.
  14. I have both Red Hill Tactical and Comp-Tac. Both are good, but if forced to choose, I'd go RHT.
  15. I have both. I prefer the HBI because it is flat. The HBI reduces the pre-travel but does not remove it. It is not adjustable. The CGW is slightly curved and the pre-travel can be adjusted until it is almost gone. If you prefer a flat trigger, I suggest the HBI. If adjusting out the pre-travel is more important, I suggest the CGW. To answer the original question, if I buy another P-10 I will install an HBI trigger.
  16. I have a CGW stnls rod and 15 lb flat wire recoil spring on both my P-10 Cs and my P-10 F. I am very pleased with them.
  17. Thanks for the tip. Cajun Gun Works has their P-10 F rods in stock now so I have installed one of the., But, I will remember for future reference.
  18. Yes, i did. I first removed the striker. I have unstuck both Glock and CZ slides doing that in the past. That did not work. I turned the gun upside down and initiated the slide removal protocol. That did not work. Out of frustration, I moved the slide as far forward as I could, about 3/8". I then sharply rapped the back of the slide with a rubber hammer and the slide slid right off. I think the head of the Glock guide rod was hung up on the frame just enough to keep the slide from moving freely forward. All seems good. Thanks for asking.
  19. A word to the wise. If you try a Glock rod, or any non OEM rod in your P-10, make certain that the head size does not exceed the head size of the OEM rod. That is what was causing my problem.
  20. I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring. Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would. Slide went into battery. Everything seemed to function fine. When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch. The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame. The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker. I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ. I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success. I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck. So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are, extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring. The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops. It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up. There is no movement after the slide stops. Any thoughts?
  21. Tighten up the reset, if it is possible with your gun. My CZ P-10 C with an HBI trigger has a much shorter reset than my G34 Gen 5 with an Apex trigger and connector (which has a shorter reset than the stock Glock trigger and connector).
  22. fastlane604

    p-10F issue

    I understand and I feel your pain. I bought a G34 because of it. But, spend 30 minutes dropping the slide over and over and see if it doesn't help some.
  23. fastlane604

    p-10F issue

    . Here is my trip down P-10 slide release hell. I have two P-10 Cs. Both slide releases were tight as a tick when new, as well as, having horrible mag releases. No amount of reprofiling or polishing helped, but replacing with the Apex mag release did the trick. The single side mag release on new issues has cured that problem. But, I digress. Back to the slide release. I handled a G34 gen 5 one day and couldn't believe how easy it was to drop a mag. It was like Glock used my hands to design the slide release. I bought one a few days later and then embarked on the trip down Glock trigger hell. I put an Apex trigger, trigger bar and connector on it. It is better but still nothing like the HBI trigger on my second P-10 C. By this time my first P-10 C had loosened up enough to be tolerable. But, my second P-10 C which has the HBI trigger and which I shoot the best had a slide release just as Rowdy describes. I began repeated slide drops without rounds or snap caps in the magazine. At first, I had to use two hands on the slide release. I kept working it until I could drop it with one hand, as well as, many trips to the range. It now has loosened up pretty well and I shot an IDPA style match with it last Saturday and did not feel hindered by my slide lock reloads. On one occasion it even autoforwarded. So, you ask why didn't I just shoot the G34 and forget the P-10 C and now the P-10 F I just received? Because I shoot the P-10 C better. It feels better and I have more confidence with it. The trigger is crisper and has a faster reset and less pre-travel. Since I don't shoot USPSA I don't need the 19 round capacity of the P-10F and I find the F's grip a little unwieldy, so sometimes I put the F slide on the C frame and I have a very quick gun with less muzzle flip. I really like the combination. So back to how to break in the slide release. For me, it just took a lot of dropping the slide, over and over. Plus a lot of shooting.
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