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Everything posted by fastlane604

  1. I am using a CGW 15# spring on a CGW stainless guide rod. I shoot 145 Bayou Round nose and N320 that run 128+ power factor. Very accurate load but the brass drops from 0 to 2' from my feet. Has anyone tried using a 13# spring on their P-10 C?
  2. fastlane604

    SAO SP-01

    I converted my SP-01 to SAO. It already had the CGW Pro Package which includes the comp hammer and adjustable sear. I removed the disco. I also removed the firing pin block and lifter arm and installed the spacer next to the sear. The trigger pull was a little light for me, under 3 lbs. I installed a Tanfoglio sear spring and an extra power trigger return spring and bumped it up to 3.5 lbs. It is very crisp with no creep and quick reset. I installed the CGW flat faced trigger with pre-travel and over travel adjustment. I also put on the wide paddle left hand safety from CZ Custom. I ca
  3. I have the NDZ Performance Gen 5 extended mag release for my G34 Gen 5. They sell a couple different lengths. Mine is most extended. It is aluminum. $15. I have not noticed any problems with it, but I have only put a couple hundred rounds through the gun since installing it. Good purchase and extended enough to get on it well.
  4. fastlane604

    My P10C mods

    What are you hoping to accomplish? With the HBI trigger and the lightest HBI striker spring the trigger pull on my P-10C is 3.5 lbs. The break is crisp and the reset is lightning fast. There is a little bit of pre-travel. If you don't like the pre-travel, the CGW trigger will adjust it out. I have the Apex enhancement kit on my Gen 5 Glock 34 and it is better than the stock Glock trigger but far from my P-10C trigger.
  5. fastlane604

    My P10C mods

    Plus one on the Apex extended mag release.
  6. Paul, get up a little grumpy today?
  7. It wasn't a problem with the snap caps but it was a problem the other day at the range. I had loaded some 124 TC Bayous at 1.10 OAL and I had a couple that were too long. Really suprised me. I have always dealt with short chambers on my CZs, but didn't think I'd have to worry about it with a Glock. Only the TCs caused me trouble. The RN ran just fine at 1.13 OAL.
  8. I tried the case with only a live primer and I tried a homemade snap cap with a spent primer installed backwards. Both racked just like they should. It appears I created much adieu about nothing. Thank you all for the suggestions, especially HCH on the case with a live primer and BoyGlock with the primer backwards. You assuaged my concerns.
  9. Thanks for the tip on the backwards primer. I will try it.
  10. Good suggestion. I will try it and report back. As I mentioned earlier, skipping the snap caps is an easy thing to do. My real concern is in the event of a high primer or a misfire. I want to know that I can rack the slide to clear the chamber without taking the slide off the gun.
  11. I suppose I could take the striker out of the slide and try it with a live round. That should determine whether the striker has any part in the equation. I have never had a reason to do this before. There should be no tension on the trigger but it should still pull to rear, just like when it is pulled with the slide off. I can't think of any reason this could cause a collateral problem (as long as I take out the striker, of course).
  12. No problems with a laserlyte. I inserted it into the chamber, closed the slide and pulled the trigger. I racked it like normal. The only difference I see between the laserlyte and a 9mm case is that there is no rim on the laserlyte.
  13. I have one of those bore lasers somewhere. I will dig it out and try it. I am guessing the result will be no different.
  14. I have used these home made snap caps countless times practicing reloads and have had no problems with firing pin damage. Regardless, my slide won't rack with either a primer pocket that is empty or one that has been filled with caulking, once the trigger has been pulled.
  15. I first thought that was what was happening. I made up a new snap cap. I loaded a sized case with a bullet to correct OAL and filled the primer pocket with fresh caulking. The first snap cap had lost the caulking in the primer pocket and as you, I thought the tip of the striker was getting hung up. I pulled the trigger on the new snap cap and same result, stuck slide. Performed my regimen to get to the snap cap and found a fresh dent in the primer pocket caulking that looked just like a dented primer.
  16. I make my own snap caps. Primer pocket is full of caulking. Nothing to damage a firing pin or striker.
  17. Yes. So far, it functions just fine in live fire or dry fire, other than not ejecting a snap cap after pulling the trigger. If that is the only abnormality, I am fine with it. I won't use snap caps. However, my fear is if I have a light strike or a high or dead primer, that I won't be able to rack a new round into the chamber.
  18. I am new to Glocks. I am not new to handguns. I have a CZ 75 Shadow SA, an SP-01 that I converted to SAO and two P-10Cs. I have owned 1911s and M&Ps. I just bought a Glock 34 Gen 5. When I pull the trigger on a snap cap I cannot rack the slide. To unlock the gun, I must release the slide, take it off the frame and move the tab on the striker to the rear. Only then will the barrel release. If I have not pulled the trigger, the slide racks like normal and the round ejects. Is this normal for a Glock? All my other guns will let me rack a snap cap after I have pulled the trigger. I ha
  19. fastlane604

    My P10C mods

    I saw that Zev makes a 2 and 3 lb Glock striker spring. $5 a piece, I believe.
  20. Yes, I believe that is the SP-0I with the TS slide. However, I don't see one listed on CZC to buy. I'm sure they will make one. They will also fit a TS slide to your 75 or SP-01 frame, as I understand.
  21. Very nice. What does it weight?
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