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fastlane604

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Everything posted by fastlane604

  1. I have both. I prefer the HBI because it is flat. The HBI reduces the pre-travel but does not remove it. It is not adjustable. The CGW is slightly curved and the pre-travel can be adjusted until it is almost gone. If you prefer a flat trigger, I suggest the HBI. If adjusting out the pre-travel is more important, I suggest the CGW. To answer the original question, if I buy another P-10 I will install an HBI trigger.
  2. I have a CGW stnls rod and 15 lb flat wire recoil spring on both my P-10 Cs and my P-10 F. I am very pleased with them.
  3. Thanks for the tip. Cajun Gun Works has their P-10 F rods in stock now so I have installed one of the., But, I will remember for future reference.
  4. Yes, i did. I first removed the striker. I have unstuck both Glock and CZ slides doing that in the past. That did not work. I turned the gun upside down and initiated the slide removal protocol. That did not work. Out of frustration, I moved the slide as far forward as I could, about 3/8". I then sharply rapped the back of the slide with a rubber hammer and the slide slid right off. I think the head of the Glock guide rod was hung up on the frame just enough to keep the slide from moving freely forward. All seems good. Thanks for asking.
  5. A word to the wise. If you try a Glock rod, or any non OEM rod in your P-10, make certain that the head size does not exceed the head size of the OEM rod. That is what was causing my problem.
  6. I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring. Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would. Slide went into battery. Everything seemed to function fine. When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch. The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame. The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker. I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ. I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success. I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck. So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are, extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring. The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops. It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up. There is no movement after the slide stops. Any thoughts?
  7. Tighten up the reset, if it is possible with your gun. My CZ P-10 C with an HBI trigger has a much shorter reset than my G34 Gen 5 with an Apex trigger and connector (which has a shorter reset than the stock Glock trigger and connector).
  8. fastlane604

    p-10F issue

    I understand and I feel your pain. I bought a G34 because of it. But, spend 30 minutes dropping the slide over and over and see if it doesn't help some.
  9. fastlane604

    p-10F issue

    . Here is my trip down P-10 slide release hell. I have two P-10 Cs. Both slide releases were tight as a tick when new, as well as, having horrible mag releases. No amount of reprofiling or polishing helped, but replacing with the Apex mag release did the trick. The single side mag release on new issues has cured that problem. But, I digress. Back to the slide release. I handled a G34 gen 5 one day and couldn't believe how easy it was to drop a mag. It was like Glock used my hands to design the slide release. I bought one a few days later and then embarked on the trip down Glock trigger hell. I put an Apex trigger, trigger bar and connector on it. It is better but still nothing like the HBI trigger on my second P-10 C. By this time my first P-10 C had loosened up enough to be tolerable. But, my second P-10 C which has the HBI trigger and which I shoot the best had a slide release just as Rowdy describes. I began repeated slide drops without rounds or snap caps in the magazine. At first, I had to use two hands on the slide release. I kept working it until I could drop it with one hand, as well as, many trips to the range. It now has loosened up pretty well and I shot an IDPA style match with it last Saturday and did not feel hindered by my slide lock reloads. On one occasion it even autoforwarded. So, you ask why didn't I just shoot the G34 and forget the P-10 C and now the P-10 F I just received? Because I shoot the P-10 C better. It feels better and I have more confidence with it. The trigger is crisper and has a faster reset and less pre-travel. Since I don't shoot USPSA I don't need the 19 round capacity of the P-10F and I find the F's grip a little unwieldy, so sometimes I put the F slide on the C frame and I have a very quick gun with less muzzle flip. I really like the combination. So back to how to break in the slide release. For me, it just took a lot of dropping the slide, over and over. Plus a lot of shooting.
  10. Rowdy, you the man.
  11. I am using a CGW 15# spring on a CGW stainless guide rod. I shoot 145 Bayou Round nose and N320 that run 128+ power factor. Very accurate load but the brass drops from 0 to 2' from my feet. Has anyone tried using a 13# spring on their P-10 C?
  12. fastlane604

    SAO SP-01

    I converted my SP-01 to SAO. It already had the CGW Pro Package which includes the comp hammer and adjustable sear. I removed the disco. I also removed the firing pin block and lifter arm and installed the spacer next to the sear. The trigger pull was a little light for me, under 3 lbs. I installed a Tanfoglio sear spring and an extra power trigger return spring and bumped it up to 3.5 lbs. It is very crisp with no creep and quick reset. I installed the CGW flat faced trigger with pre-travel and over travel adjustment. I also put on the wide paddle left hand safety from CZ Custom. I can really bear down on it to help with recoil control.
  13. I have the NDZ Performance Gen 5 extended mag release for my G34 Gen 5. They sell a couple different lengths. Mine is most extended. It is aluminum. $15. I have not noticed any problems with it, but I have only put a couple hundred rounds through the gun since installing it. Good purchase and extended enough to get on it well.
  14. fastlane604

    My P10C mods

    What are you hoping to accomplish? With the HBI trigger and the lightest HBI striker spring the trigger pull on my P-10C is 3.5 lbs. The break is crisp and the reset is lightning fast. There is a little bit of pre-travel. If you don't like the pre-travel, the CGW trigger will adjust it out. I have the Apex enhancement kit on my Gen 5 Glock 34 and it is better than the stock Glock trigger but far from my P-10C trigger.
  15. fastlane604

    My P10C mods

    Plus one on the Apex extended mag release.
  16. Paul, get up a little grumpy today?
  17. Back to the plunk test.
  18. It wasn't a problem with the snap caps but it was a problem the other day at the range. I had loaded some 124 TC Bayous at 1.10 OAL and I had a couple that were too long. Really suprised me. I have always dealt with short chambers on my CZs, but didn't think I'd have to worry about it with a Glock. Only the TCs caused me trouble. The RN ran just fine at 1.13 OAL.
  19. I tried the case with only a live primer and I tried a homemade snap cap with a spent primer installed backwards. Both racked just like they should. It appears I created much adieu about nothing. Thank you all for the suggestions, especially HCH on the case with a live primer and BoyGlock with the primer backwards. You assuaged my concerns.
  20. Thanks for the tip on the backwards primer. I will try it.
  21. Good suggestion. I will try it and report back. As I mentioned earlier, skipping the snap caps is an easy thing to do. My real concern is in the event of a high primer or a misfire. I want to know that I can rack the slide to clear the chamber without taking the slide off the gun.
  22. I suppose I could take the striker out of the slide and try it with a live round. That should determine whether the striker has any part in the equation. I have never had a reason to do this before. There should be no tension on the trigger but it should still pull to rear, just like when it is pulled with the slide off. I can't think of any reason this could cause a collateral problem (as long as I take out the striker, of course).
  23. No problems with a laserlyte. I inserted it into the chamber, closed the slide and pulled the trigger. I racked it like normal. The only difference I see between the laserlyte and a 9mm case is that there is no rim on the laserlyte.
  24. I have one of those bore lasers somewhere. I will dig it out and try it. I am guessing the result will be no different.
  25. I have used these home made snap caps countless times practicing reloads and have had no problems with firing pin damage. Regardless, my slide won't rack with either a primer pocket that is empty or one that has been filled with caulking, once the trigger has been pulled.
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