fastlane604

It wasn't a problem with the snap caps but it was a problem the other day at the range. I had loaded some 124 TC Bayous at 1.10 OAL and I had a couple that were too long. Really suprised me. I have always dealt with short chambers on my CZs, but didn't think I'd have to worry about it with a Glock. Only the TCs caused me trouble. The RN ran just fine at 1.13 OAL.

I tried the case with only a live primer and I tried a homemade snap cap with a spent primer installed backwards. Both racked just like they should. It appears I created much adieu about nothing. Thank you all for the suggestions, especially HCH on the case with a live primer and BoyGlock with the primer backwards. You assuaged my concerns.

Thanks for the tip on the backwards primer. I will try it.

Good suggestion. I will try it and report back. As I mentioned earlier, skipping the snap caps is an easy thing to do. My real concern is in the event of a high primer or a misfire. I want to know that I can rack the slide to clear the chamber without taking the slide off the gun.

I suppose I could take the striker out of the slide and try it with a live round. That should determine whether the striker has any part in the equation. I have never had a reason to do this before. There should be no tension on the trigger but it should still pull to rear, just like when it is pulled with the slide off. I can't think of any reason this could cause a collateral problem (as long as I take out the striker, of course).

No problems with a laserlyte. I inserted it into the chamber, closed the slide and pulled the trigger. I racked it like normal. The only difference I see between the laserlyte and a 9mm case is that there is no rim on the laserlyte.

I have one of those bore lasers somewhere. I will dig it out and try it. I am guessing the result will be no different.

I have used these home made snap caps countless times practicing reloads and have had no problems with firing pin damage. Regardless, my slide won't rack with either a primer pocket that is empty or one that has been filled with caulking, once the trigger has been pulled.

I first thought that was what was happening. I made up a new snap cap. I loaded a sized case with a bullet to correct OAL and filled the primer pocket with fresh caulking. The first snap cap had lost the caulking in the primer pocket and as you, I thought the tip of the striker was getting hung up. I pulled the trigger on the new snap cap and same result, stuck slide. Performed my regimen to get to the snap cap and found a fresh dent in the primer pocket caulking that looked just like a dented primer.

I make my own snap caps. Primer pocket is full of caulking. Nothing to damage a firing pin or striker.

Yes and yes.

Yes. So far, it functions just fine in live fire or dry fire, other than not ejecting a snap cap after pulling the trigger. If that is the only abnormality, I am fine with it. I won't use snap caps. However, my fear is if I have a light strike or a high or dead primer, that I won't be able to rack a new round into the chamber.

I am new to Glocks. I am not new to handguns. I have a CZ 75 Shadow SA, an SP-01 that I converted to SAO and two P-10Cs. I have owned 1911s and M&Ps. I just bought a Glock 34 Gen 5. When I pull the trigger on a snap cap I cannot rack the slide. To unlock the gun, I must release the slide, take it off the frame and move the tab on the striker to the rear. Only then will the barrel release. If I have not pulled the trigger, the slide racks like normal and the round ejects. Is this normal for a Glock? All my other guns will let me rack a snap cap after I have pulled the trigger. I have switched out the OEM striker spring for a Wolff 4.5 lb striker spring. Would that cause the problem? I have lighter striker springs on both my P-10Cs and they still rack a snap cap after a pulled trigger.

I saw that Zev makes a 2 and 3 lb Glock striker spring. $5 a piece, I believe.

11# recoil shooting 145 gr Bayou coated

Yes, I believe that is the SP-0I with the TS slide. However, I don't see one listed on CZC to buy. I'm sure they will make one. They will also fit a TS slide to your 75 or SP-01 frame, as I understand.

Very nice. What does it weight?

Manolis and K.A., Thank you.

Has anyone built one using a TS slide and either 75 SA or Shadow frame or an SP-01 Shadow frame? How much fitting/machining is required ? How do you like the results? Would you do it again? I have begun to think about it.

Thanks, Rowdy. Always appreciate your opinion.

Does anyone have one? If so, how do you like it? At $90 I'd like a little feedback before ordering one. Thanks.

Here is the deal. It is good that the P-10 C is easy to take apart and put back together because I have made the round trip several times. With some egg on my face I confess it was the slide stop spring. It is finicky. Evidently, on my first disassembly and reassembly I inadvertently bent the leg of the spring enough that it took some tension off the slide stop. The leg of the spring must bear on the nub protruding from the bottom of the slide stop bar. If not enough tension, the slide locks back on an empty magwell. Too much tension and the slide will not rack at all. And, the spring leg must bear on the nub while the loop of the spring remains in its relieved area.

If this doesn't identify an error. I will take it apart again and take pictures of the trigger bar and slide stop out of the gun.

Here are pictures. Hopefully, the spring location shows up.

I took it apart again thinking that I would find the slide stop spring sitting out of its indented location. It was not. I took the slide stop along with the trigger and trigger bar and assembly out and reinstalled. Nothing changed. The slide locks back on an empty magwell. It will not slingshot. I still have to pull back on the slide and press down on the slide stop to release the slide to battery. When taking the slide off it gets stuck after 1 inch of travel. I must press down on the slide stop so the slide will release and travel off the end of the frame.