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Specialneeds

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    James

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  1. I hate to be the one to say it.. possibly it is your load? The czechmate is not exactly a well built machine. Kneeling, if you have had no issues with running an aluminum muzzle device.. good for you. I would be very interested to know the rate which you replace it. The cz pistol already has a very high cyclic rate. Mostly due to the lower weight slide. I would definitely not lighten the barrel assembly any at all on these guns. I have seen people gut the slide but.. Your miles may vary. If the slidestop is not binding from the lower lug being improperly dimensioned versus the upper lugs on barrel; really struggle to see what would cause the issue? To my understanding the czechmate eats slide stops. Period. So much that all the shooters tend to carry spares and check it before every stage at a shoot. I never liked the gun personally. It looked great. Until I used one.. which is why mine went away after two quick seasons. Hopefully you figure out what is not properly fitted...
  2. I thought this was a common issue? The slide stop pin absorbs all the rearward motion of barrel. Whereas the 1911 style pistol has a vertical&horizontal impact surface for barrel to stop against. I used to shoot a checkmate.. but not for terribly long. Maybe because you reduced the barrel weight by changing from steel to titanium compensator, the dwell time has decreased. Thus causing barrel to impact the slide stop pin at a higher velocity. Which equates to having more energy. I was told it is not uncommon for people to use hardened steel/tool steel pins as a replacement for the slidestop. Effectively having no lockback mechanism at all. However, I was also told this only provided a slightly longer lifespan of the acknowledged 'consumbale' slide stop. I am not sure a slight amount of peening in your lower lug would be concern. Unless the slide is travelling beyond operating tolerances for trigger/disconnector function while in battery.
  3. Wondering and actually doing are two things. It seems like a very popular thing. After researching a bit, it seems just working over a glock minus connector and tinkering with factory parts will generate a desired result. Would you care to explain why this is such a problem? I have limited experience with these types of guns. That said,who does not want to reduce pre and post travel? It seemed to me, quite a few persons have fielded the 'roland special bulls#!t'. In so far, a few guys who actually rely on weapons for survival told me about said fecal matter. Until recently, I never heard of it. Appreciated.
  4. After some reading, studying pictures.. This pistol design is a compromise of competing spring pressures. Too much imbalance makes issues. If I wanted to retain factory slide/trigger springs.. with the goal of reducing overtravel and takeup much as possible.. Could a person use one of those ghost connectors that is fitted in pair with an apex trigger shoe/pad? I was thinking the tactical 5lbs connector with a good polishing and fitting, gen3 trigger bar that is equally polished and stoned flat where striker mates would perform well. My goal is very precise and repeatable trigger pulls. Anything around 4.5lbs weight on a gauge is fine. This is for edc type use. I would rather more of the crisp break feel. All this said, I have wondered about roland special style setups. What is the consensus of those aluminum comps? Especially with some 124gr +p loads. Something around 1200-1250fps. Lastly, ismi or wolff recoil springs? It seems some people claim ismi springs 'stack' and are generally less stiff than their rating. Whereas wolff is claimed to be more stiff when 15lbs springs are compared(as example) from both ismi and wolff. I also was informed sometimes the wolff springs are very close to coil bind during full stroke of slide. Thank you all.
  5. Any issues that could arise from headspacing off the extraction rim, instead of the case mouth?
  6. Interesting. Any idea how much more deep the chamber is now? Or, any idea how long those problem cases were? Never had this issue before.. however, I must be spending too much time trimming. =/ Glad you have it resolved.
  7. Are you sure the magazines are presenting properly and your extractor is grooving along properly for the problem barrel/rounds/mag(s)? It could get even more deep here.. Is it the first few rounds or last few from magazine?
  8. Have you checked the lower lug dimensions vs slidestop& frame? Without the recoil spring, do you feel any binding or friction of slide? I had this springfield 1911 with their awful coating on it.. 9mm gun. Just the slide and frame were so rough, it would drag and feel like worn out bearings when cycling by hand. Had a similar issue. 1000grit valve compound and some working of the action smoothed out whatever was rough. Is that the proper fix? No. But.. the gun runs reliably now. If lower lug is not properly dimensioned, would it not cause the barrel to randomly bind against the slide? Excess drag of upper lugs. Guess the first thing to check is for additional signs of friction. In so far the magazine itself is not creating a FTF stoppage.
  9. Neg. Removing material from the barrel only will be sufficient. Though, I was wondering if your extractor is rubbing the barrel? Hard to tell from that picture.
  10. Why not just do a cone comp of older days? A steel rod matched to a generic barrel from manufacturer you choose. Simply cut the cone to match your current slide ID? Thread a barrel, bore and thread the rod. Any gunsmith of quality should be able to do such. Some flux+silver solder on a generic stainless barrel and you should be good to go? Most people are using bushing or bull barrels with their own sleeves made in house, I believe.
  11. 10mm mag has very similar dimensions as 357mag in brass and coal. A few tenths. Should also be similar of lighter 41mag loads. The 160-180gr range. Most people say 6shot in 41mag is a little risky? Something about the index cut on cylinder gets very close to chamber bore, can cause a crack to occur. I am aware the weigatiny rail uses a different quick detach front sight and removes the rear. The video shows it being done fairly quick. Basically, a way to find another 200fps with similar projectile weight. I had in mind the 165gr penn state truncated cone bullets. With aspirations to hit roughly 1500fps. Should produce a relatively flat shooting yet manageable handgun. Would suspect it perform well on animals up to 300lbs. I honestly was thinking a lipsey's blued 10mm gp100. Cheap enough on gunbroker if you wait. Grips, sights and a barrel swap. Cylinder work and action job. Trying to learn more about these guns and what is realistic in modification or expectation. Such as, with a cylinder to forcing cone gap roughly around .005 to .006" and a similar gap between the brass and blast shield - everything should be happy firing coated lead at magnum speed? PennState claims their higher quality alloy and coating will handle up to 2000fps. The ports in barrel make a noticeable shift of reduction to muzzlerise? I was told taylor throating is considered ideal. Being it would give me roughly 0.75" of smooth bore after forcing cone. Rule of thumb was 1.5 to 2.0 times projectile diameter when throating. Any insight, guidance, advice is all appreciated. One thing I also am curious about - plating cylinders. I have seen chrome and nickel plated guns. What is the advice here? Thank you all!
  12. Say I wanted to play with one of these on weekend while being reliable for hiking/backpacking/hunting sidearm... what can or cannot be done/expected? 10mm chamber. I had wondered about having cylinder reamed for 10mm mag, a new barrel done up and using weigatiny rail ontop with an optic. Be it a dot or fixed magnified glass. While still being able to use the adjustable sight as need may be. It seems like there are limited to no major parts available for upgrade. Basically polish and square the internals, lighter spring set and extended firing pin. Looking to shoot mostly lead. Potentially a porting to barrel. What is review on shims for internals? Yay or nay? Help me out guys. I know nothing about revolvers other than some skimming over load datas, old forum posts and seeing a few raced up smiths on a range. Thank you!
  13. Guess no one has good answers. A little thinking, it seems a few options may be doable. Especially for those of us not using CNC. I think a rotarty table and simple math will be applied. Seems a 1/16" radius cutter would be best for the lissner modification. Appreciated, everyone.
  14. for clarity, a 3/8" diameter cutter with an appropriate radius* Not a cutter with a 3/8" radius.
  15. Looks easy enough to do. Before letting chips fly, my google searches came back limited.. Would a 3/8 endmill for the pocket and a similar 3/8 radius cutter be all I need? In so far.. everything was indexed properly prior to cutting. Any and all insight would be largely appreciated.
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