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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Vincerama

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    Vince Lok

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  1. Do you clean the primer pockets when you clean the brass? I mean, do you deprime the cases, then wet tumble them so the primers are sitting on bare brass? Or do you decap them on the press and seat primers over the crap (which should still work).
  2. I walked into my work shed, looked at the mess and unfinished projects laying around and decided to buy the moon clip server because I’ll never build my own rack. The truth hurts!
  3. I really want to make some magnetic posts now, but I know that realistically I'll never get around to it...
  4. I bought the PC version of the 627, I opened the cylinder and it's like "Wait, I thought they said they chamfered the chambers?!" LOL, it's like, they lightly scraped the edge off each cylinder with a popsicle stick and called it good. Now yours looks like a proper chamfer!
  5. Wow that moonclip server looks pretty cool! more choices to make now ... Thanks guys! V
  6. Hi guys, so I have a knockoff 4 post/8 clip holder for .45 acp moonclips (similar I guess to the North Mountain??) ... bought off eBay, seems fine and works OK. But I just picked up a 627 and want to run it in USPSA so that means needing a new way to hold the new moonclip. So to hold the ammo on the belt, I've seen some magnetic "racks" that look interesting. Speed Beez as an 8 post magnetic ($160) and Speed R Rack has a 7 post ($145) and the double alpha single clips are pricey, but you can get 8 of them in a "Combo pack" for ($180). Or ... I could get a four post double height non-magnetic on eBay for $90 or so. Any recommendations? If I didn't go nuts on "free hazmat day" at Powder Valley, I'd just buy the DAA singles as they look like the best. I mean, I guess I could hobble together something as well, but ... well, buy once cry once, right? I think I might actually be able to just stick the .38 special moons on the .45 rack I already have, I haven't tried but I do know the .45 clip holder has a thinner post. Any experience with any of these? Anything to stay away from? Thanks! V
  7. Thanks guys. I've read that the R-P brass gets thicker as you get closer to the rim, and so that it's better to use other brass IF you are going to trim down brass for "speedy reloads". So I was looking to see if anyone knew of a "good brass" to trim down. I can, of course just do it myself and sacrifice a few cases to find out, but I thought someone might have already done this and could say "Oh, yeah, use CBC headstamped brass for that". And ... does it really matter if the case walls are thick if you chamfer the case mouth? If the bullet causes an hourglass shape in say a the midlength .900" case does it matter really or will it cause the case to split, or the bullet to be inaccurate because it's "swaging down" into the case? Thanks!
  8. If all else fails, go low brow ... Good looking ladies in Daisy Dukes in revo-only squads.
  9. Dang, pretty simple right there! I'm ready to jump into revo actually. Got most of the stuff. I did one ICORE and it was darned fun.
  10. Thanks Intel6, that's the type of info I was looking for! Radny97, yes, I think before going to cut down to .900, I'll try full sized specials and then try the Starline Long Colt. People cut down to .900 to have a case that is short enough such that the empties call fall out on a full extractor stroke, and load faster than long .38 special cases (for USPSA/ICORE competition). The .38 Short Colt is probably the most popular, but it's right on the edge of scary loading and I'd rather have some buffer room in my loadings (ie; a safety margin against over pressure loading by accident).
  11. Thanks Mcfoto! I won't go big on buying brass until I check out moonclip/brass combos! I guess I should practice and do some matches with full sized .38 specials first instead of getting caught up in the gamer aspect!
  12. There's a big match coming up in Northern California (Golden Bullet). There is ONE guy signed up for revo. I think he's going to win the division.
  13. Hi guys! I went to an ICORE match with my 625 and had a lot of fun, but decided that, heck, those 8 shot revos are a lot less trouble (especially when you miss a lot on steel). So I went out and picked up a 627 (I had considered the 929 as well, but decided I didn't want another moonclip-only gun). Perusing the forums, I saw the arguments for shooting specials, long colt, short colt and the .900" wildcat "mid/min colt". I sorted out my pile of .38s and the ones I have most of are headstamped R-P and PMC. However, some research shows that those are the two brands that tend to get thicker as you go down the case, so cutting them will leave the mouth with pretty thick brass. A question I couldn't find an answer to was ... what headstamp/brand of .38 special brass is actually good to cut down? And before the naysayers pop in, yes, I'll certainly shoot with .38 special first. And I'll dabble with both the other colt lengths as well. The cut down .38s seem worth investigating as well though so I thought I'd see what is a good brand of brass to try it on. Thanks!
  14. Hey, least you can get the TSO! In California we also have ten round mag limit plus a dwindling list of guns we can buy that basically is impossible to put new guns on.
  15. Responding to an older post but ... I have the SS Guiderod and spring. I also bought the 13 lb flatwire 1911 government model (5 inch) spring from Wilson Combat. I asked SS Guiderods to not locktite the screw in, and I asked them what strength they ship the PPQ rod with. The RSA arrived loctited together and they never responded with their stock spring strength. Oh well. Anyway, I removed their spring, which looks like a 15 lb WC 1911 spring. I replaced it with a 13 lb spring and went to the range. I brought 200 rounds to commit to testing the assemble in the PPQ for reliability (124 gr, pf around 130). I found that the slide "slammed" more in recoil, like I felt recoil, then the smack of the slide. It was otherwise fairly reliable, until (I swear) round 180 or so. At that point I'm 99.95% sure that the gun fired out of battery. I didn't think it COULD, but apparently it can. Maybe when I get home, I'll see if the trigger releases the striker when the slide is slightly out of battery. In anycase, the gun did not blow up, but I could tell something weird just happened. I had to use a squib rod to poke out the case. I couldn't move the slide. The case I took out had the primer blasted out and the face was quite squashed (the printing on the case head was surely squashed) the front of the round was 9mm chamber-ish in side, but the bottom of the case was clearly ballooned out. Luckily it didn't burst. So ... I swapped the 13lb spring back in for the stock (probably 15 lb) spring. I can't tell if it is stronger or weaker than the stock factory spring. Seems reliable with whatever ships with it. It IS possible that the round was not crimped properly or didn't gauge right. I bought the "hundo" case guage and have found that I'll have 1/150 rounds not gauge (glocked brass mostly) and the rounds I used that day were pre-gauge days, so it's possible a fatty snuck by. (All new rounds get go/nogo on the hundo now of course) but, the gun had 2k+ rounds with the factory RSA previous to this happening with un-gauged rounds. So the only thing that changed wast the new RSA with the weaker 13 lb spring. Bottom line is ... yeah the glock test is valid for the PPQ. I didn't do it, but I could feel how wimpy the spring was when I slightly pulled the slide back from battery and it was so mushy and easy to do with the 13 lb spring. V
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