IronicTwitch

I took out the primer assembly and wiped down the primer cup...it was kind of dirty. I also noticed the ejector wire (after station #4) was on the wrong side of the center shell plate bolt for some reason. I moved it back to the correct position and between those two fixes the clicking appears to have stopped (only loaded about 30 rounds post fix). Hard to believe that seemingly insignificant amount of pressure and dirt would affect the primer cup like that...

If this is directed at me, I have no idea. Press is still new and makes a lot of noise if running normally. I couldn't discern a click associated with the primer flipping... I'm having the same issues with the primer cup click on my SDB with a new large primer slide. The click happens as the ram is dropping about an inch away from "neutral". You'd very likely feel or hear it right under the shell plate - nothing should be clicking down there. Try running a round on every other hole in the shell plate so you can visually inspect the primer's position. I tried running one round around the progression by itself, but I found that it needed even pressure across the shell plate in order to exhibit the primer cup "click"more readily. Now the real question, dirty whiteboy, how do you adjust the primer cup to alleviate the clicking/catching issue?

My SDB loads 9mm like a breeze. I think a new one for $379 is your best bet given my experience buying a used one (which are near impossible to find since no one wants to give theirs up!). Price-wise, the SDB would be perfect if you stick to 9mm since the $379 includes the dies too. Total width on the bench for my preferences is at least two feet - box of bullets on one side and a box of brass on the other side. If you like to stand while reloading, I like the strong mount which adds a little to the footprint but makes a better platform especially for the forward stroke to seat the primer. Wait to get the brass and bullet trays until after you've used it without. One thing I couldn't get used to on the Hornady LnL was the half-rotation. Seat the bullet on the belled case and I keep a finger hold while the shell plate rotates half a notch until it goes into the seating die. It just felt weird to me...but my buddy loves his LnL. [Added a snapshot to provide some visual reference for size - this setup includes all the options: mount, bullet tray, empty brass tray]

Tool question - what did you use to grind it down? My file and sandpaper approach didn't do much...Dremel is next on my list.

Question to the guys that put the CZC magwell (IPSC sized, not the large one) and factory magazines with no extended base pads. I just installed the new magwell and the mag won't seat fully. Looks like I need to remove some aluminum material from the magwell funnel near the rear. Any insight into the best tool to use and how much material needs to be removed?

I recall someone mentioned leaving lube on the round adds additional stress to the extractor since it's lacking some needed friction to extract the spent case. Not exactly a quantitative observation on how much stress or how much you shorten the mechanical life of the parts. But I like shiny brass anyways, so I tumble them after I've loaded them.

I'm left eye dominant and shoot right to left. That allows me to pick up the next target without looking over the gun. Also I've told myself I get some benefit of the ejector recoil pushing the gun left to help transition between targets. If I'm moving even moreso since I don't like running over spent brass (especially on indoor ranges with concrete floors).

Who did your grip reduction? Very nice color work...

I've been using it for about a year. Non-petroleum based drew me in. Flawless performance, even in upper Midwest winters shooting in sub zero temps on multiple occasions. I like that it cleans up easier than stickier petroleum based products. Less lube in winter, more in summer. Runs my all metal CZs very well.

You'll see a lot of people with the classic bladetech owb. I've got one for both my cz P-01 and TS. Great for competition with the dropped offset (D/OS) attachment to get it out from the belt a little. You'd have to take the D/OS piece out for idpa. http://shop.blade-tech.com/owb-holster-c-1_23_24.html#.U03aI3Mo7qA

Yep, that did the trick - part #14014 for those that need a reference. Easier to take the ram out than I expected (this coming from a desk jockey that's more used to figuring out computers than precision machining equipment). There was one a small bolt+plastic cap+bent washer+spring on the front that popped off (the overtravel block according to the parts list). I put it back together per the schematic in the manual, but I have no clue what that piece does in the big picture. Everything else looks pretty straight-forward. I'm actually glad I got to take it apart and better understand the moving parts! PLUS I called Dillon and the are sending a replacement shellplate bolt to me...for FREE! I still don't know how they can afford to do that.

Hey, I'm from Iowa....guess I'd better go stock up on long guns...better than a 401K!

Good input here. Just broke my shell plate bolt trying too hard to prime some .45 brass...have to remove the ram and still out the other half of the shell plate bolt. I was trying to read the manual and interpret the schematic to see what over-travel bolt needed to be removed.I didn't realize it was on the back. Thanks for the tip!

Hehe...highly contagious, only cure is an expensive treatment cycle prescribed by your lgs. Good luck!

I've order a bunch of stuff this year from these guys - wish I had this coupon code when I ordered! Bladetech 20% discount thru Friday 4/11 SGGPZNULNY https://www.facebook.com/BladeTechInd

Yessir, it does. I found a similar topic on projectile lengths in the 9mm forum and found the the RN is about .02" longer than the FP, so it makes good sense with the load data I have in the book starting at 1.200" for RN. Just need to tweak the charge to meet my liking now. Next time I buy projectiles for .45's I'll be going with the RN just to see if that helps the first round to feed up the steeper ramp on the officer-sized barrel. I noticed the full-size Sig 1911 my friend has has barely any ramp at all, so it may not be as important in that config.

Just a note after a range trip: using WST 4.2grains at 1.20 OAL was a decent light load, same charge of 4.2grains with 1.18 OAL was noticably stronger (no signs of overpressure but my palm is sore after 70 rounds yesterday) and the cases dropped about 10 feet away instead of 2-4 feet away. I think I'll scale back the charge and go middle of the road with 1.19 OAL and test it again. One of my LGS's allows a rental of a chrono - so that's next on my list once I settle on a good bunny fart charge! Still having some issues getting the first round to feed, but no issues with rounds 2-7. Maybe more of the "break-in" period for a new gun than the ammo...

Yeah, I just picked up a Sig 1911 Officer size of my own. Trigger is very nice, a small bit of pre-travel and a clean break around 5lbs, as advertised. My first shot out of the box was center target from 8 yards - it's a keeper. My friend has the full size nightmare and I think his trigger is better, but mine may improve with a few more rounds down range. I've been handloading 225gr fmj flat points (xtreme), a profile which feed great into my CZ's but the ramp on the officer length 1911 is steeper and the first round tends to be stubborn sometimes. Still trying to find the sweet spot with that load. My only complaint with the pistol's design is the stippling on the front of the grip is very aggressive. After about 70 rounds today my fingers are a bit rough, I ended up putting a mechanic glove on and then found the trigger guard was a little small but doable. My palm is sore too...I'm used to 9mm bunny fart loads in my CZ TS!

Thanks, I've been looking for a reason to upgrade to that lyman tool...guess that'll do it!

I've got a few hundred once-fired HRTRS brass for .45ACP and am finding they are much more difficult to seat large primers than the Feds, Win, and other brass I've got. Anyone have any similar experience with HRTRS? Tips on how to get these primer pockets open so they seat more easily? I'm sorting the brass by headstamp now and will run a simple pocket cleaner tool through them, but my gut tells me that won't do too much. It's almost like the primer pocket is too shallow. I can get the primer to seat properly if I use a good deal of force (about twice what the non-HRTRS brass need) on the forward stroke on my SDB to seat them properly. Will they primers pop with that kind of force spread evenly over the primer cup face? I ran a couple at the range and they ignited normally and didn't have any overpressure or stress signs. Not a lot found on "HRTRS" doing a quick search through the topics, so hopefully I'm helping more than myself out!

They didn't pass the "plunk test" in the barrel (done with the gun disassembled), the profile was pushing onto the grooves and had to be forcible pulled out instead of easily dropping free when I turned the barrel chamber down. Also had some feeding issues with the steeper ramp, but this is a brand new gun and one mag fed better than the first so I didn't put too much extra attention into the mags (although I've seen plenty of topics along those lines). I was more concerned with having to force the slide forward to fully seat the round.

Thanks, Jack. I saw OAL's for people loading RN that were above 1.20 to 1.25, so it must be the profile of the FP that accounts for the difference. I don't have any RNs or I'd measure to confirm the delta.

Yes, shortened to 1.18, sorry for the typo on the most important number!

I picked up some 225 FMJ FP from Xtreme. I used the same profile in my 9mm and they feed from the magazine very well. Observation on the OAL for the 45, the load data in the book starts at 1.200 but I found this projectile loads shorter at 1.80 to fit in the barrel of my Sig 1911. I'm tested some at 1.20 OAL but they didn't feed reliably (about 50% FTF). I've shortened to 1.80 using 4.2 grains of WST. Anyone had a similar experience?