trgt

If it is incidental, someone caught in your video, everyone has a pretty good disguise with glasses/headphones/hat - person on the street won't recognize them, LOL. But for many reasons listed above, its not a good idea to post a video focused on someone, tagging them and showing their run and equipment w/o their permission. Someone who has a public Facebook page which includes what they do on USPSA, or even dedicated athlete page to competition, is going to view this question very differently than someone who for any number of reasons doesn't post or publish what they do.

I'm 7.2 WAC, 1.15 OAL, MG 121 IFP -> 170 PF

Aw, come on, lots of folks here who would love a good match, from a promoter perspective we do have the most USPSA members of any state to pull from ;-) (http://www.doodieproject.com/index.php?/topic/2455-how-many-uspsa-shooters-per-state/?p=59563) I would have to think a few ten round mags would be the least expensive part of any trip, or of anything most folks have done firearm-wise in a long time, LOL.

What size ultra sonic cleaners does he use? What cleaning fluid and what oil does he use? This is what he had and I duplicated: Ultrasonic Machines: http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html Cleaner and Lubricant: L&R http://www.lrultrasonics.com/industries/weapons/solutions/products.html The L&R is a little pricy, but he oil lasts a long time

The new output w/o having to enter division and showing boundaries for each class is very cool. I do think you should show the HHF / 100% value as well - it's so obscenely easy to calculate, its not really hidden/secret, just not published. (or show the 5% HF value first, and I'll add that to the last 95% to get to 100, LOL) Again, very cool!

Pretty cool, thank you!

An OCD friend showed me his setup of two harbor freight ultrasonic, one with gun cleaning fluid, hot water rinse between, then second with ultrasonic oil that displaces water and leaves dry lube. Does an awesome job especially with multiple guns - just pull grips off frame and go, upper just field strip and put in parts. So of course after I get setup I switch to open where I can't immerse the frame anymore with the red dot in tow.

Many triggers are aluminum, also custom version or aftermarket grips. Any simple green solution can eat into the aluminum. Also the brake cleaner works well but dissolves the red safety dot paint on the frame.

Welcome from SF Bay Area!

.... don't forget ACCU Shadow Lite CZ 75 SA Style Short Dust Cover Shadow Slide CZC Barrel Bushing and Reverse Plug Don't think the AS Lite is Production legal. Ah, you're correct, sorry about that!

.... don't forget ACCU Shadow Lite CZ 75 SA Style Short Dust Cover Shadow Slide CZC Barrel Bushing and Reverse Plug

anything new on the M&P model SIRT?

At 8.5 I could only get Federals to light reliably, but they all seem to go off if flush or slightly more into case.

OK, gotcha - on mine, looks like when the locking block is tight that my elevation has some 'slop' (a range the screw can move before it stops either direction), and windage can unscrew out, but brass block will stop before allowing more 'in'. So if I understand correctly, when setscrews are tight against brass block, the red dot won't move/drift, but my adjustment screws have been messed up at some point. (drift over, thx!!)

Relatedly, when the rear lock screws are tight, should the elevation and windage screws on the Deltapoint easily move? I just noticed that mine seem loose / easy to turn even when the rear set screws are tight.

mine the same - it does seem 'delicate' to have those points like that with an otherwise robust gun, but only issues I've had snagging cleaning rags

On Calguns here locally the feedback system is a nice way to filter out flakes, that's really the most it can do, since even folks with 'good' reputation can turn on you on your transaction. But for the most parts folks with good selling ratings or high post counts are fine to deal with. On Enos I've found the post count is a good proxy for 'reputation' as far as being a buyer or seller - the types of folks that will fly-by-night / hit-run on transactions simply won't have the time or character to put into participating at Enos, especially as a seller. With regard to worrying about buyer's taking advantage of good deals, Motosapien is spot on, seller can chose a higher price to sell, or they might decide on lower price for less hassle/faster sale, they are totally in control.

Most of the stuff I read on light recoil talk about the combination of heavy bullet and fast powder. I think fastest of what is you list is Titegroup, then 231 after that, based on their relative burn rate. I liked how Titegroup shot in terms of feel and accuracy, but switched to Vihtavuori N320 which is relatively similar burn rate, but cleaner burning for me (less black stuff in gun).

Yes, my new 9mm Starline on a 650 or 1050 will 'pop'/stick much more than used brass. I've polished my funnel a bit with simichrome, also clean it off every now and again with a rag when sticking gets more noticable. And a little case lube on the outside of the powder funnel, just when cleaning/wiping down, all things I've done to help. BTW, you didn't mentioned, but if you use a u-die (undersize sizing die), that will also make the powder funnel stick a lot more.

It will also run minor PF ammo w/o spring change if you like

You need to say 'I'll take' it, until then its up for grabs to first person who does. On lower priced items, you just need to look at available evidence, and just make a decision. Figure that built into the discount of the pricing is compensation for any risk/uncertainty about condition (or if you don't agree, offer a price that does compensate for that and lets you commit now). On higher price stuff, if you can't commit, be precise with a question or two that will allow you to commit, or not.

elbandito, Thanks on the support / kind words. I'm sure your SIRT purchase was a wise Dryfire investment regardless of availability of my project :-) It took me while to figure out what it was supposed to be, what I wanted to offer ... a laser dry fire helper, or a mobile USPSA/IPSC scene simulator. I eventually allowed that few people are sporting Pico (or regular) projectors, and that most of the utility of having this on your iPhone is to give you verifiable feedback on what's going on with your dry fire (time, scoring and hit factor) where ever you choose to do it. There are others doing computer-based stage / scenario projection and hit tracking, so now I leave creating simulators to them. I did complete version 1 last year - it tracks and gives you real time feedback on your dry fire against targets the iPhone camera watches. But I simply ran out of steam to try to launch it. I've gotten other supportive notes about the app, and given continued lack of availability of anything like this, I am of the mind to still get this out the door for others to play with, maybe we'll finally have some rain here in CA to force me indoors to do that :-) Thanks again!

I believe the point was that knowing the HHF lets you then further compute target HF you need to 'level up', whether its, C/B/A, etc.

The real problem is my draw stroke wasn't the same each time. If i pulled straight up, release no problem. But if I added any forward pressure, it would bind on the release. My guess is a training scar from shooting production prior year where there wasn't any real penalty to drag the gun out of the holster with forward pressure, I just didn't realize I was doing that. Once I identified that, I could pull straight up and release no problem. But there was still a binding if I regressed. There are many folks around here who use the Safariland just fine, and I think they just didn't have the same 'bad' technique that I did. Since then though, I've switched all my non production rigs to Ernie Hill Guga Ribas holster. It doesn't seem to have same problem if I inadvertently put a little forward pressure, it just releases slick as butter. The curved CZ trigger guard doesn't make for the most perfect fit, but between that, and an adjustment to hold the dust cover up, its seems to work ok.

I believe the Burris FF3 is compatible with Doctor mount pattern, so you'd use the Doctor / Meopta / Insight - plate 01