Cuz

Are the bullets coated, plated, or jacketed? 4.2 of TG seems a bit on the high side with a 124gr projectile. But , then again, my Glock barrels are 4.5-6 inches. I tend to stay in the 3.5-4.0 gr range depending on bullet type. I’ve loaded Precision coated RN down to 1.05” and Montana Gold and Precision Delta JHP at 1.08”.

VLUC for the win! Although I doubt we’ll see that anytime soon.

I’m curious, and don’t know how to set up a poll, so, If you were buying a new full size Glock today, for range, competition, or even home defense, and already knew which optic you were going to mount on it, would you get the MOS version? Or would you get the non-MOS version and send the slide out to be milled for your optic? Personally, I’ll never buy another MOS slide, unless I plan to use multiple optics to play around, or if I didn’t know which one I wanted to mount. I’d much rather get the traditional slide and have it milled for a specific footprint and eliminate the whole plate system altogether. Just wondering what the rest of you would do.

hmm, if your Franchi is the poor man’s Benelli, and my Stoeger is the poor man’s Franchi , then I think that makes my Stoeger the poorer man’s Benelli, right??? But, considering I take mine out less than once a year, it was the perfect choice for me. I’ve never felt bad about putting it away dirty, and it still hasn’t had its first cleaning yet. lol.

Hey wait a minute, I thought my Stoeger was the poor man’s Benelli???

Anyone know what the tool is made of and how much it costs? Is it 3D printed? For anyone wanting more info, and ordering info, I found this link: https://thesrotool.com/

I shoot a Glock, and went with Taylor Freelance aluminum +5 extensions.

Let me know if you guys get through to him. I want one too.

Thanks, I need to watch more of these. I can never figure out what to do with my off hand when holding a PCC.

Johnny, Does that mean you are using 3 passes to load? 1st pass on the CP2000 to prep, then 2nd pass on the 1100 to prime, then 3rd pass on the 1100 to load? If this is the case, do you lube for each pass? I would like to know more about your process steps, and more about the “m” die that prevents sticking at the powder drop station. Thanks.

Thanks George, I had no clue where that post was.

And we’ll expect a full report when your research is finished. :)

That’s the TNT shell plate. Why would I want it?

I think Sigarms posted pics with the thickness on the one he got. If I recall, folks that got the new thicker plate also got some sort of notice along with the press mentioning it.

I got mine in late 2020 and it does not have the new shell plate. I was also looking hard at the one from FW Arms. The groove on the underside for the ball intrigued me.

Can some of you smart folks out there tell me why I might want to replace the Dillon shell plate that came with my RL1100 with one of the other brands out there? It’s the #5 shell plate for 9mm. While we’re on the subject, who are some of the other shell plate manufacturers I might want to consider? I know that FW Arms and TNT make them, but who else, and why is it better? Thanks.

Boy, I would like to see Tapatalk working again, or at least a change that has the mobile version of the forum working like the desktop version.

Yeah, I have to start looking at it that way. It’s definitely true.

I totally agree with what your saying, but my biggest problem is how it affects me when I have to DQ someone. It totally wrecks my mindset and I can never seem to regain my own composure for the rest of the match. I wish I could just DQ them and move on, but I can’t. it’s definitely something I need to work on.

For me I would say it’s relaxation and stress relief therapy. At least the practice and random range sessions. Matches are a hot mess of nerves and anxiety that requires more stress relief therapy to get over. It’s a vicious cycle.

Thanks, I ended up going with a Carver rod and adapter. I’ve had good luck with his stuff. I also sent the slide out to get milled for MOS plates so I could put an optic on it. That didn’t go as well as I’d hoped.

Yes, thanks, the last 3 replies confirm what I’ve always believed. Basically, the U die is best only used with jacketed bullets. And, sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought it had some pertinence to the topic.

The Lee factory crimp die is only not recommended for coated bullets, right? I’ve used it for years with copper plated, and now jacketed bullets with great results. I have read in multiple places that you shouldn’t use it with coated bullets. Also, regarding crimp, is it true that over crimping is only an issue if it breaks through the coating or plating which could cause the bullet to separate? Are there any known drawbacks to a slightly tighter crimp with jacketed bullets like Precision Delta or Montana Gold? I thought they both had pretty hard jackets.

So once you get the press all taken apart and you have the base of the press left to clean, what do you use to clean the funk out? I’ve been spraying it with M-Pro 7 Gun cleaner, but I figure there must be something that may work better. Anyway, just wondering what you all are using. Thanks, Cuz

That’s pretty much what I was thinking. When you get a new custom gun, you dry fire it a bunch to see if it appears to function, then run a bore snake through it to make sure there’s no excess anything in the barrel then head to the range to make sure it’s working ok. I would do this BEFORE I took anything apart and started mucking with it. Especially since you said you had no 2011 experience.