Paradox

18" JP LRP shooting M118LR (175 SMK) easily and consistently does less than MOA out to 600. The rifle is more accurate/consistent than the ammo... With bit of load development, either should give you plenty of practical accuracy. John Paul makes good stuff!

Hello all, I wasn't sure if I should post this in the reloading forum - but it seemed like my target audience would be concentrated in here. I haven't used any JLK VLD bullets yet, but they list a G1 BC of ".620??" for the 130 grain 6.5mm's. That sounds really optimistic to me!?? Secondly, are they consistent enough to "plug and play" (no sorting)? I have been meaning to pick up Brian Litz's new book; did he happen to test them? Link to Bullet -> JLK Bullets Home I do know that they have been used in various rifle disciplines in the past, but it seems most everyone has moved to yellow, silver, green, or red boxes of bullets... Of course, that might be due to other circumstances such as availability, cost, etc... Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

As previously stated, I don't think you will have any problems. Every LE qualification I have ever shot had very generous time constraints compared to what you will find at a match. A confidence building exercise would be to practice shooting 3"x5" note cards turned vertically. This closely approximates the X / 10 ring on a B27 target. I think the FLETC uses the "bowling pin" targets, but it doesn't matter. Focus on fundamentals. Practice calling your shots. The point is to increase the distance you can keep 6 rounds on the card. It shouldn't take long before you can stack all of them in beyond 25M. When that gets easy, try strong hand and weak hand in the same manner.

That's a purdy rifle Does JP make that stock, or is it someone else's? It kind of looks like the McRee's Precision...?

I went out on a limb and tried the new NF 1 piece 20MOA mount... After shooting it this weekend with M118LR, I finally lucked out and got a factory rifle that shoots! I am eager to find out what some Green / Yellow / Red box reloads are going to do...

I haven't bought any rings yet, I was going to purchase the TPS set (they are currently out of stock). After reading the comments here, I think I want the steel 20MOA Farrell base. I have no idea on the rings - should I get steel rings to match the steel base or does that matter? I was hoping to get the whole set for around $200. If Badger is the *only* way to go, I don't want to buy twice... For example, the TPS Rings / Base is around $115.00, the Badger set is around $285. Inexpensive is good, but I don't want cheap Like the thread starter, I was hoping to get a good $$$ / performance suggestion. Thanks in advance!

I just picked up a new Remington 700 5R, and need a base and rings for it. I have a Nightforce NXS / NPR-1 reticle with a 50mm objective on the way. Can someone tell me what height rings fit closest to the barrel and still allow for flip up covers? I was going to purchase the TPS set, but not after reading this thread. Now, I will order the Farrell - any suggestions on rings to fit the above requirements?

My favorite is Corrosion-X, one of their largest stocking dealers happens to be local to me. I get the standard / general purpose version in the pump spray bottle. While not mentioned on their website, the stuff is used for tons of Military applications where corrosion is a problem. Otherwise, common Break-Free should work better than WD-40 for you. This stuff is also great for thinning out Slide Glide. If anyone wants to try some out but can't obtain it, shoot me a PM. http://www.corrosionx.com/

I thought it was a comedy....

It's half the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow... Ya-h! After a quick look, I *think* most pistol sights are regulated to adjust 1/2" @ 25 per click. However, you have a 34/35. The adjustments have different values compared to a 17/22. Just wanted to clarify the Model (sight radius) for those in the know...

The last time I checked this skill was during the summer. Three of my shooting buddies were going for broke on draws. Drawing a G22 from a Blade Tech DOH @ 5yds - First draw was a .74, then I pushed a bit for a .62, the last two draws were a .53 and a .52. (I decided to stop while I was ahead). All A's. However, if I am going to shoot more than 1 round on a target and in a match, I am very happy with a .90 - 1.1 and a solid / consistent grip. I found that that drawing to 8" plates @ 25+ with the goal of always hitting them and dropping time was a far better drill (for me). Shooting at that distance really helps fine tune my draw.

Mick, The only thing I have to add, is I prefer the Wylde chamber over a 5.56... I am too lazy to look at Rock River's website, but I think you can get one chromed in that chambering. -Justin

We are lucky to have CPA's and an Attorney that graciously take care of the paper work. It is a little more headache to be incorporated, but is worth it IMO. Officers do not get paid for service (reimbursement excluded), and for a thankless job we offer 'free memberships' to help. One possible workaround for non-members at matches is to include a section in your bylaws that states (paraphrased) non-members will be sold a one day member pass as part of the match fee... Of course double check this as law is NOT my line of profession. Another suggestion is to find a club and officer that has been around the block so to speak. There are plenty of options and pitfalls to avoid!

Yup, and this occurs well after I had sworn off anything other than a plain black serrated sight. I thought I had reached the pinnacle of iron sightedness (is that a word?) when I found the "perfect" FS / RS width relationship for me. Then he calls and says, "Hey I am toying with this idea, you NEED to check it out." I figured the practice session would turn into another affirmation that I really do hate FO sights. Keep in mind this is after I learned what AIMING actually means. After switching between a plain black / FO for half the day, I came up with some absolutes (for me). In my opinion, whether or not you "like" a FO or not depends your skill level. If anyone is reading this and can't decide which one to use - check out my synopsis: 1.) As a beginning shooter: "Oh neat, I have this aiming device that will *make* me shoot really fast and accurately." Ok, now I am aiming (part of the time) with this colored blob on the front of my gun. It doesn't matter that I am getting marginal (at best) hits, but wait! After an undetermined amount of rounds downrange I start to see this brightly colored blob lift in recoil and finally settle back into the rear notch. Ding! Stepping stone #101. 2.) After another inordinate yet undetermined amount of ammo downrange, and I think "You know this red blobby thing is kind of annoying, I already see the sights and it is getting in the way of my group / precise shooting". At this point I decide to replace the FO with a plain black sight. Amazing! My hits are now squarely planted in the A zone, and my groups dramatically shrink. Ding! So this is aiming? Stepping stone #102. 3.) Soon after learning and employing the process of aiming and calling shots, I start playing with different sized FS widths and RS notches. A relatively thin one seems fast up close (with lots of light on the sides), but now I suffer from the marginal hit problem at distance (requires more focus). Maybe a larger FS width may work? After toying with different relationships, I find that the "secret" is the correct preportion of black sight and light on the sides. As a bonus, a correct relationship (for me) is just as fast up close and still offers excellent accuracy at distance. Ding! Aiming part II. 4.) Quite a few matches later someone says, "Hey dummy! You should try a FO again." The short version is, I can aquire the FO faster for closer stuff and use it properly to make the more difficult shots. *As a side note on my definition of "difficult", we were having fun taking turns scaring 12Ga hulls @ 25yds with the "new" sight. Occasionally, we did hit them with many "OMG!, that was sooo close!". This is a condensed version of my experiences, but hopefully you get the drift. If there is a step after #4 I have yet to experience it... Additionally, (we have already heard this from Brian) - IF you have the visual patience to use the FO up close and not use it for more difficult shots, you will have the best of both worlds. Personally, I found myself getting lazy later in the practice session and shooting the 'dot' more often on tight stuff; which resulted in misses / poor hits. Of course, this is just the first of many trials. Ironically, (yes I can laugh at myself) I took the really long way to figure out the only "secret" is to actually use the little machined bumps on the slide Everything else is just personal preference! Use whatever it takes for YOU to make the shot... P.S. - If you do try a FO, I think the advice given by Voight is a good guideline for proper setup...

Hey Sam, thanks for the kind words I think the "stiff" competition was a result of the after-match festivities - LOL I'll take what I can get! On the other hand Sam and Rodney have some kind of Jedi mind control on me, I hate shooting against friends... Again, congrats to Odie DeHan, Rodney May, and Bret Kuhns!! -Justin