DRock

I just got a magnet from Harbor Freight for about $2. About 1/4" thick and maybe 1 1/2" round. They may vary from store to store. I put mine in a small plastic bag to when picking up the pins. It helps to get them off the magnet. I've heard the large FA magnet works well. Some folks have had rust issues. Dave

I've got quite a few of their 9 mm bullets and more of their brass than I can count. I shot a lot of Freedom Munitions before I started reloading and they started using X-Treme brass a couple of years ago, when they dropped the stepped brass. I hope they can get things resolved and stay solvent. I'm sure the more relaxed atmosphere among shooters has put a strain on many in the industry. Dave

I was thinking about a new scale and you guys and a few internet searches convinced me to get the GemPro 250. Brownells has them on sale today for 129.99 with free shipping over 49.00, code MCP. Look forward to seeing if it's an upgrade from my 19.99 Frankford Arsenal. Dave

Dr. Phil, as I look at progressive presses I agree with you about the LCT doing one thing at a time. I find that good insurance for me at this point. And, although the color of the press doesn't matter to me, I do find myself wanting to experiment with a progressive. I found, after retiring, that I missed using tools and reloading, along with all the new learning, has helped fill that void. It also adds another dimension to my shooting. If I had started reloading when I was younger I'd probably be an old had by now, but there are so many things to try I'll probably never get bored. Dave

firewood, you'd think being retired I'd have the time to get things right. You're correct I meant per 600 month. Glad to hear you like the LNL. I've been reading quite a bit about it along with watching videos when I can. Seems like any progressive has it's own learning curve and I'm looking forward to it. I do like the way the LNL is set up. I think the LCT has been a good experience for me, as a starter. I do see it's shortcomings for extensive reloading but probably could have stayed with it if I wasn't inquisitive and had some money to spend. Again, appreciate your input. Dave

firewood, I agree that there are lots of Lee people over there, and some of the newer posts in the tech section indicate some disappointment. I honestly wasn't sure of what need this press was supposed to fill, and it seems that some of the breakage I read about in the tech section indicates there is a lot of beta testing going on by the early buyers. I said early on that I'd let everyone else do the beta testing. At this point I wouldn't recommend the press. Most of my shooting needs are filled by the Classic Turret but every spring when I start getting ready for competition season I start looking Blue or the other Red. Lately I'm thinking LNL but I would have to buy it in the winter to get used to it. I appreciate hearing your views on the press. For me a LCT is a good solid item (especially with a set up from Kempf) as long as you don't shoot more than about 600 a week and are retired. The reason I'm looking elsewhere is because I like using and learning about different tools, don't really need the production. Dave

There are a couple of threads going on The Highroad. One for un-boxing and one for tech. Reviews seem generally favorable with a few tech issues regarding the primer feed. Same type of primer feed as the Classic Turret and same learning curve with a few adjustments due to a slightly different primer arm. Dave

Thanks, look forward to your input. Dave

The Auto Drum comes with the "fail*safe" chain set up but you have to install it. I've never used it. Dave

You've probably seen this method before but I'll post a link just in case. Post #3 by Wobbly shows a method to determine when the bullet is contacting the rifiling. http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.0 Dave

I have a Lee Universal Decap Die on it's own tool head for my Lee Classic Turret press. When I get about 8 lbs of brass decapped I run it thru my Frankford Arsenal Tumbler. Dave

I always assumed the step was for strength but it can act just the opposite when reloading them. If you don't know the step is there and use the same charge as non stepped the smaller volume of the case can caused increased pressure. That's when you start to run the risk of blowing out the bottom of the case. I would imagine if you're running a weak powder charge you could load them and never know the difference but I just set them aside with my reject brass. Dave

I've got a collection of the stepped brass getting ready to be sent to X-Treme bullets for their brass rebate program. Easy to spot. Dave

I figured I'd try without pins in the future, but this is relatively new for me so I haven't gotten there yet. TONY BARONE, in this thread also does not use the pins. Tumbles for 3 hours. I'm only going 1 hour with pins. Dave

I like the media separator too. I had my doubts, but after several uses I've really grown to like it. I am picking up Frankford's Media Release Magnet just to see if it will make dealing with the pins quicker. Walmart has them in my area for 14.99. Dave

Does the base plate look like the one on the left as far as the hole goes? Dave

I've been using Wolff units for a long time and use their springs for many different brand of pistols. gunsprings.com. They offer a guide rod for the Glock 19 for 24.95 with different weight springs, but there are quite a few other manufacturers that offer the same. You might want to try lonewolfdist.com and ismi-gunsprings.com too. Dave

I've been using a non-captive Wolff gunsprings.com (not Lone Wolf) spring set up since 2008 on my G26 and always change both springs.

Love my 92 Compact as a carry pistol. I carry with the 13 round magazine and have a 15 round as backup. Just keep in mind it's not a lot smaller. My 92A1 with 17 round magazine loaded weight is 40.95 oz, 92 Compact with 13 round magazine is 37.4 oz. The smaller grip does make it more concealable with the 13 round magazine. Dave

Glad it worked out. Happy shooting! Dave

I posted this in the Factory Pistol/Glock sub-forum "hcore44, don't use force. There are two slots on the trigger pin and the slide stop lever is sitting in one of those slots. While putting pressure on the pin, move the slide stop back and forth/up and down with your other hand, you will find a point where you move the slide stop out of the slot and the pin will push out. It will be apparent what I'm talking about once the pin is out." Dave

rooster, that model doesn't use a locking block pin. hcore44, don't use force. There are two slots on the trigger pin and the slide stop lever is sitting in one of those slots. While putting pressure on the pin, move the slide stop back and forth/up and down with your other hand, you will find a point where you move the slide stop out of the slot and the pin will push out. It will be apparent what I'm talking about once the pin is out. Dave

Thanks for that link. I've always used this one from the Beretta Forum http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showthread.php?t=73869 yours is much better. Good advice to get a spare parts kit for any first time polishers. Dave

Couple of things I would check. Along with the trigger spring in the "S" configuration, make sure it's centered on the trigger bar. Sometimes they shift off to the side on reassembly. The Vanek connectors are really nice but check to make sure yours hasn't gotten bent inward too much. That can cause lack of spring in the connector and not reset the trigger. This can also cause intermittent reset problems. Lastly, I'd check that there is proper engagement with the firing pin lug and the rear end of the trigger bar cruciform. You should have 2/3rds of the cruciform covered. Dave

Thanks for the info, Less and for the generous offer. I'm looking for something to have on hand to loan out among friends around here. This one looks like it will probably work out for me. Dave