Blackstone45

I guess it's inevitable to spend some time and rounds to try and find that neutral grip

6 years of shooting cartridge pistols and I'm still trying to find that grip to allow that consistent return to point of aim

I wanted to bump my question above - why would keeping the support hand thumb off the gun make a big difference?

I'm struggling a lot with keep my support hand thumb off the slide/frame of the gun. Is the main downside to it that you risk pushing the gun off target with it?

Never thought to do some draws with my eyes closed, great idea thanks!

thanks for the recommendation on the gyroscope powerball. i remember seeing one of those when i was a kid, and basically forgot they existed until i read about it here. ordered one off amazon, and the workout is amazing for my arms.

bullseye/ISSF shooters definitely favour full black sights, but for the faster action shooting disciplines where accuracy is not as important, i personally like having a fibre optic front sight

Best way to practice the draw? I've tried breaking the draw down to parts and practising each individually. I've also practiced by setting a long-ish par time so I can take a long time to draw and present a good sight picture. Then I reduce the par time, essentially forcing me to draw faster. This way, I'm going by the 'slow is smooth and smooth is fast' mindset. However, I worry that in a match, without the time to slowly warm up, my draw will just fall apart.

I guess the question is, should you always be looking to call your shot, no matter how skilled you become?

I think it's important not to sacrifice a good grip for a fast draw time, given that the draw is just the first couple of seconds of a stage, and a poor grip will affect your shooting for the entirety of that stage

I thought an administrative reload was something taught in police circles where you change the magazine while the gun is holstered

Wasn't sure where to post this. I recently managed to close the 0.5 grippers, and so ordered the #1, and when they arrived, found that I was basically 90% of the way to closing it. Has anyone else found the 0.5 and 1 to be similar? I'm just worried I was sent a faulty #1 that is too easy to close.

Sounds like a good opportunity to make the most of this unfortunate incident and practice accuracy fundamentals. I started off my shooting "career" with ISSF air pistol, which gave me a solid base to transition to practical.

I had/have similar problems to this, and I've always been told that I just need a stronger grip. Currently can close the #1 captains of crush

Misaligned sights will throw the shot much further out than any normal oscillation of the gun as you hold it. So accept that your gun will move a little, and focus on ensuring your sights are perfectly aligned when the shot breaks.

Yeah that sounds like slapping the trigger, thanks for the response

Would you ever say you are "slapping" the trigger?

I rack the slide and at the same time throw the gun up slightly, as if to help the round fly out as well. But I won't let go of the slide and begin to catch until I see the round has cleared the ejection port. I think that almost completely eliminates any chance of the round getting caught by the extractor.

Is it possible to do dry fire splits of 0.2-0.3s without any noticeable movement of the sights?

lol didn't realise this was a bump. Antny seems to enjoy his old threads

Focus on the front sight, equal light, equal height. A common mistake is people start their aiming with the sights aligned, then look past their sights trying to chase the center of the target. Then when the shot breaks, the sights were no longer aligned. Just accept that you can't hold absolutely still, let the sights circle around the middle of the target, but focus on ensuring they stay aligned at all times. Misaligned sights will throw a shot off much further than any natural drifting of your gun. My shooting background is primarily in slow precision fire at 10 to 50 metres, beginning with air pistol and then cartridge pistol. I've only taken up practical in the past few months.

I do cam my wrist, but have eased off it slightly in favour of tilting both hands inwards towards the gun. Might be a matter of my wrist/arm strength in my support hand, as I have difficulty camming it as well as applying pressure inwards and squeezing hard.

Doesn't having a really heavy recoil spring cause the gun to dip after recoil? The issue I'm currently having is that the gun tends not to come all the way down after recoil.

If I'm going to be shooting a mix of 9mm factory ammo, would the 11lb spring be best for this? As for the guide rod, one of these things? http://www.ipscstore.eu/en/cz-75-sp-01/2052-13-015239-cz-recoil-spring-guide-rod-steel-for-cz-75-sp-01-shadow-new-design-2000000020525.html

I'm not at the stage where I reload ammo yet, so it's all factory 124g for me at the moment. My understanding is that the factory Shadow springs at 16lbs. But when I bought the gun, it had already been tuned by its previous owner. It came with two springs, and unfortunately I don't know their weights Can't order from CGW as I'm based in the UK (in a region that permits handguns for target shooting).