JonSnow

I don't think that's true. I'm building a 40 slide for my 1911 and I priced it out at $600 without sights or springs (since I have spares). That's for a Caspian stainless slide with sight cuts already and a pre-fit Nowlin barrel. I will have to do any slide/frame and bushing/slide fitting myself but I could also send the parts to a gunsmiths for $200. Add the cost of sights and you're looking at $900 for a slide that uses your existing frame with any and all goodies/work you've put into it. Compare that to a Dawson CRP Trojan at $1235 and add the price of a trigger job, plus FFL fees. Seems like the slide is $400-$500 cheaper. Granted, you then have two guns instead of one, but personally I can only shoot one gun at a time. Jon- that's interesting. I guess I should have asked more questions when he said that. Too late now I guess, because I went Tanfoglio for .40 S&W. I'm loading to 10mm OALs and using 10mm mags. With only a recoil spring change, I can switch from minor power factor, to major pf and even stiff 10mm loads and with cheap brass. I bought both a steel framed Match for paper and a polymer framed "full size" for carry for a couple of hundred dollars less than a Dawson CRP Trojan. I still love the 1911 platform in .45 ACP (I haven't decided on a 9mm yet). Heresy! You speak blasphemy against your own forum name! In all seriousness, sounds like a good choice. My analysis above assumes you're trying to stay SSTK legal.

You can also do it the hard way, shoot a score of 95%+ at Nationals. But they call it the hard way for a reason.

I don't think that's true. I'm building a 40 slide for my 1911 and I priced it out at $600 without sights or springs (since I have spares). That's for a Caspian stainless slide with sight cuts already and a pre-fit Nowlin barrel. I will have to do any slide/frame and bushing/slide fitting myself but I could also send the parts to a gunsmiths for $200. Add the cost of sights and you're looking at $900 for a slide that uses your existing frame with any and all goodies/work you've put into it. Compare that to a Dawson CRP Trojan at $1235 and add the price of a trigger job, plus FFL fees. Seems like the slide is $400-$500 cheaper. Granted, you then have two guns instead of one, but personally I can only shoot one gun at a time.

Thanks all for the replies. Kneelingatlas, I do like the lens size on the C-more but I'd be going with a slideride so the bore axis problem gets worse, not better. My frame does double duty in SSTK, so I don't want to put a 90 degree mount on it. For now I'll stick with the Burris, do a lot of dry fire work and casually keep my eyes open for a good deal on a C-more.

^ this makes sense. Thanks.

I should clarify, I am planning on doing a lot of dry-fire work as well. I'm mostly just curious why everyone seems to run C-mores over other styles.

I've been shooting the occasional rimfire match and steel challenge with a marvel 1911 conversion and a Burris FastFire II. I like the set-up overall, but I feel like I have a hard time finding the dot initially (I don't shoot open in USPSA so I don't have a lot of trigger time with dots). I've heard that the C-mores have a much larger viewing that would make the dot easier to find. Does anyone have concrete numbers to compare the two? Alternatively, I have an Aimpoint R1 micro dot. It's a tube style dot and I was thinking it might be easier to align quickly using the tube. I don't see any open shooters doing that, so I think I'm missing something. Thoughts?

I'm surprised, I've successfully shot 40 out of my 45 1911 twice. Once was when I let my Army cousin load my mags for me. (never assume that military service=handgun proficiency; I have great respect for our military and he certainly knew his way around a rifle, but had very little experience with handguns) The second time is still a mystery; happened at a match, back when I didn't even own a 40. My best guess is some helpful person picked up one of my mags, picked up what they believed was my ejected round from ULASC and put it back in the mag.

Looks like that might run into the barrel and that you might not be able to put all 3 screws in without hitting the SN. But it's hard to tell from pictures without a reference for size.

I bombed a stage once that had you finishing with uprange movement. I nearly tripped over the fault line, fired one shot at the last target while over the line and then realized I was at slide-lock (the rest of the stage had gone poorly). At that point I decided my hit factor was toast anyway, so I calmly reloaded, walked out of the shooting area right up to that last target and put one round in the middle of the "upper A zone". That earned a couple of laughs from the peanut gallery.

The safety on an AR just prevents the trigger from activating the sear. Slam fires in ARs, M1As and other military style rifles without firing pin return springs can slamfire without any sear or hammer movement. I've often wondered if I should put a spring of some variety in my ARs just to be safe.

None of this is true, there is plenty of data on .40 major. Plenty of shooters on this site use WST which to make major requires them to dabble in the "over max load" area when using heavier bullets but most are experienced reloaders that increase oal to allow for increases in pressure. I have a shelf full of powders that are used in .40 s&w including; Titegroup, Win231, Win WSF, Win WST, Longshot, Clays and others. What Brenden said. 40 Major with 200gr bullets is right about max published load for a ton of powders, with 185gr bullets it's often under max loads. What you may experience is needing to load long to reliably feed, I can't say for sure because every gun is different. If you load long, you may need to bump up the powder charge SLIGHTLY to stay major. It's not a concern and plenty of shooters have done it before you. From my personal experience, I stated in SS with a 45. I currently shoot L10 and Lim with 40. I'm planning on going back to SS at some point to bring my classification up and when I do I'll be building a 40 slide to fit my 1911, I think the shorter recoil impulse works better for me.

True, but both S&W and Ruger openly admitted to not renewing their status at SHOT show this year.They are throwing down the gauntlet and calling cali's bluff. Their strategy is that if enough gun makers refuse to accept the cost of complete redesigns (and just leave), cali's LE won't be able to get hand guns. I hope they back down and remove the new restrictions, but I doubt it. Actually, LEO's are exempt from the roster requirements. Ruger and S&W are not pulling out of Ca entirely, they're just not renewing. It's a much less effective political tactic than what Barrett (major props the them by the way) did.

Not legal, you can't deface the serial number even if you re-stamp it somewhere else. Custom thumbrest with mounting holes either fore/aft as pat said or 2 above and 2 below would probably be best.

Bottom of the article shows how to peen a safety, but it sounds like you may have gone too far for that to work. Plus, like you said, it's a cast part, probably easier to replace and start over.

Makes sense to me. Thanks for the quick responses.

Rimfire guns is what made me thing about it. I know it's allowed, but the way I read the rules it would count as part of your time on the stage. Is there anything in the rulebook that says conclusively one way or the other?

What do you do if you can't eject your last round at ULASC? Imagine your bullets are long and jammed into the lands. your extractor fails, etc. Can you 'shoot it out'? I think the rules support it, as long as the RO doesn't give the ICHDH command. But would that shot count against your time for the stage?

Actually, the rule for production (and SS) is "Suitable for everyday use. "Race gun" type holster prohibited." I was able to get mine legal for SS with a TRP, but just barely. Let me see if I can get some pictures tonight.

Don't change anything right before a match. I know this, you know this, we all know this, but sometimes you have to screw it up yourself before you really believe it. Saturday I pulled my Para out to clean it prior to Sunday's match only to discover my rear sight was loose. I swapped it with an older one that's missing a nut but fit the dovetail, eyeballed it the best I can and called it good. I can't sight in before the match so I know right off the bat that this is going to be a long match. Well, I never liked how much vertical play there was in my stock plastic trigger, I've got a new guncrafter trigger sitting here and the gun's already apart so why not? After a little stoning the new trigger is smooth in the frame with no play, the gun's back together and function tests just fine. Sunday rolls around, I start on an all-paper stage so I can dial in my sights. Buzzer goes off, I draw, pull the trigger, it goes bang and then locks up. Trigger won't reset. Pull the trigger forward and it goes bang once and locks up again. I swap mags and it shoots fine, then I reload, move to the next array and it won't reset. Finish the stage in 4x the time it should have taken. I shoot one more stage before calling it a day. First time I've ever DNF'ed any stage. I'm sure a lot of you have figured it out by now, the trigger was dragging on the mags. When I did my function checks at home, I'd done them with an empty gun. Lesson learned: Don't change anything right before a match.

The basic idea is that a heavier bullet requires less powder to make major. Less powder means less gas leaving the muzzle and at a lower velocity, so the portion of recoil coming from excess pressure is reduced. Since that accounts for ~20-30% of recoil, minimizing it potentially worthwhile.

Gah! Made it in Limited (which I don't even shoot except for classifier matches) but not L10! Maybe the universe is trying to tell me something.

I can't speak to the P18, but for my P16 mags I run the inserts and still get occasional salt-shakers. Another Para shooter told me that he had the same issue and fixed it by soldering .055" diameter wire into the mags to extend the grooves all the way to the basepad and then trimmed the insert at the top of the basepad. Said he hasn't had any issues since. I've been meaning to try that on my mags but haven't had the time yet.

The belt ride version might be IDPA legal (I don't know the IDPA rules very well). The belt ride is also required for shooting SS, thanks to the "front strap must be above the top of the belt" rule.

I've had great luck with Precision bullets, both the 200gr and 230gr.