igolfat8

I have not seen any wear in my polymer cap.

Larry, Could he swap parts from his 34 to 35 and narrow it down before ordering those parts?

What caliber? What loads are you shooting other than "minor PF". Usually a change to a Jaeger guide rod and 15# or 13# spring will solve your problems depending on load and caliber. Your slide is moving too fast or not far enough to the rear based on your load, hence trapping the brass on ejection.

I have a carver mount on a G22 and G35 and did not require any mods to the ejection port on either.

Who makes steel comps, for LoneWolf bbls?

It would be nice to shoot FMJ or JHP on a regular basis (if I had deep pockets) but as much as I have been shooting lately its more cost effective (for me) to cast my own boolits. Less than a penny a piece

I soaked the comp in white vinegar over night and it didn't harm the aluminum nor did it remove any fouled lead build up. I have tried scrubbing with a copper brush and ChoreBoy with Hoppe's #9 solvent and brake cleaner and neither worked. I will try the Marvel oil. I am not sure how one would do this "Teflon tape around the comp holes and clean the barell and comp together with an outers foul out. ". Please explain in more detail how you wrap teflon tape around a hole? Or do you mean to wrap teflon tape around the entire comp, blocking all the holes closed with tape?

I have an aluminum Carver comp. How do you clean or remove excess lead build up from the port holes?

I have used Federal, CCI and Winchester SPP using a 4.0 and 4.5 springs without a single failure to ignite any of them. I now use the 4.5 in competition just to be on the safe side but never had a 4.0 fail to do the job.

What length barrel are you shooting from. That makes a huge difference in load specs.

I agree but would add "Its the closest thing you can get to a [really good] 1911 trigger".

Yes, I have by installing the drop in Johnny Glocks kit.

I have one set for sale if interested? My eyes are really bad and I have switched over to red dots on all my pistols. The AT sights were the easiest for me to align and I tried nearly all sights on the market, Warren, Sevigny, Big Dot, etc..

That is what I installed the trigger kit in, my Gen 4 G35.

I have been shooting the better part of the last 50 years but only for fun and non-competitively. Recently I was invited to shoot bowling pins at the local sportsman’s club and after the first outing I was hooked. For several months I competed with my Gen 3 G22 and it met my needs but after shooting a few race guns of some of the other members I was bitten by that bug. A few months ago I was fortunate to purchase a Gen 4 G35 from which to build my own race gun on. Soon thereafter I added a Burris Fast Fire III red dot, Ghost connector, a Lone Wolf barrel with a Carver frame mount for the site, a Carver *thumb rest [generic]* and a Carver comp. The barrel was chosen just so I could shoot my own cast boolits. I have Ghost connectors and spring kits in a few of my other Glocks and I really appreciated the lighter pull over the stock connector. A couple of times, I came very close to ordering a Vanek trigger but ultimately I really wanted something with an adjustable pre-travel and post-travel which Vanek had discontinued. Then I stumbled on a few discussions involving Johnny Glock triggers. I had never heard of him or his company before but I decided to give him a try since he offered me a money back guarantee if I wasn’t happy with the performance of his trigger mods. Therefore, I ordered his “Level III” competition only trigger group as well as his modified striker. All said and done it was a bit pricy ($250) for what are basically hot rodded OEM parts. http://johnnyglocks.com/?page_id=70 A couple days later the package arrived in the mail box and I went to work installing the parts in my beloved G35. I took it to the range and put it through its paces. The pre-travel is adjusted by a small set screw Johnny installs in the trigger and it came adjusted with just a tiny hint of take up before resistance was felt and then on to a very easy break to release the striker. Johnny had included 3 different striker springs and I opted for the 4.0# spring, which he said could affect the reliability of primer strikes. However, every round went bang. He also includes a reshaped safety plunger and lighter plunger spring. The mushroom top is machined and polished to a mirror like surface. The pull was shorter than my Ghost connectors provided and it seemed lighter as well although I don’t have a spring pull gauge to provide any hard data to support my opinion. Post travel was nonexistent thanks to an additional set screw that Johnny installs in the rear trigger housing which is exactly what I wanted. The trigger group seemed to function flawlessly until I noticed that when I held the trigger in follow through, after releasing the striker, sometimes the trigger would not reset. This puzzled me so I began swapping my old parts, out one at a time, until I narrowed it down to something in the trigger group must be causing the intermittent lack of trigger reset. It seemed to disappear if I reset the trigger during recoil or if I didn't hold the trigger back with a lot of force. I emailed Johnny that evening and he quickly replied with several things to check that I had not. We could not resolve the issue so he offered to send me another trigger group along with a return shipping label. The new group arrived in 2 days and I installed it in a dirty gun. If it was going to fail why give it a chance in a clean gun. I took the newly installed parts to the range and proceed to run 300 rounds through it WITHOUT a single malfunction. I tried to make this new group fail by squeezing the trigger as firm as possible, machine gunning the trigger, double taps, hot loads, extremely light loads and the new trigger did not balk one time! I also noticed that this trigger group felt even lighter and smoother than the previous group which was by far the best one I had ever tried. He made an attempt to explain how he reshapes the bird’s beak on the trigger bar end and changes some other contacting angles on other parts but all that is beyond me. All I know is this trigger works better than ANY trigger I have ever felt in any pistol, bar none! This is the closest thing to a world class 1911 trigger in a striker fired pistol that I have experienced. I am just an average Joe who enjoys shooting and I have no affiliation with Johnny Glocks nor am I receiving any compensation for this review. Its seldom that I write reviews but I felt the need to give Johnny some kudos for some of the finest customer service I have ever encountered and for a drop in trigger kit that is remarkable and truly outstanding. Thanks Johnny! PS, Oops, I forgot to mention another cool thing he does is to machine the trigger safety tab down so it is flush with the face of the trigger when you press the trigger. It still maintains the safety feature so have no fear. It just eliminates the sore finger tip that some may experience when shooting Glocks for extended periods of time.

I have seen some people mention they know where the dot is at all times within the sight glass. I can't do this because during recoil the dot leaves the glass window but then returns to rocus after recoil. How do you guys see the dot or do you lose it momentarily during recoil?

I use my pistols for non-competitive target shooting and one pistol (G35) for local bowling pin competition.

I ran a lot of different pistol lads through my prochrono digital this afternoon on my first outing with it. It seemed to work flawlessly giving me numbers with every shot fired over it. Now what do I use the data for?

I have a Gen 3 G22 with well over 15K through it plus several Gen 4s and don't see any accuracy dispersion between the two generations. I just like the 4s for their back strap changeability and an extra mag

I have 3 Burris FF 3's. Two are slide mounts and one frame (Carver) mount. Two are 3 MOA and one is 8 MOA. I like the 3 MOA for indoor target shooting but feel its too easily lost outdoors in rapid fire competition shooting and that is where the 8 is much easier to pick up. I have not replaced a battery in over 3 years. None have lost their zero and all are extremely accurate {IF} I do my part I have tried the tube sights but like the smaller foot print and lighter weight of the FF sight.

Looking for some loads for a .G35 - .40 using a 4 port Carver comp on a LW bbl. I have the following powders: BE, TG, WST, N320 and Clays. I also have 165, 180 and 200 bullets. I am new to comps and what I have been able to find is the lighter weight bullets are generally better and you want a load that makes a lot of gas for the comp to work efficiently. But I can't find any ranges of loads to experiment with. Should I be trying close to max loads or start at the min and work my way up? Of these powders what ones do you suggest I use?

I put the OEM barrel in and the bbl hood rides against the breach face just like the LW bbl. I played around with recoil springs and the 12# spring won't return the slide to battery, if I slingshot the slide 1" from closed or in slow motion but a 13# spring will so it looks like I need to work up a load for the 13# spring and try that.

I try to reply to a thread and I have to log in multiple times before I can have permission to reply? After I am logged in (I can see my user name in the upper right corner) Then I type a reply and and click post but it won't let me reply because it says I am not logged in??? I was in the classifieds and clicked on page 2 and I get an error message that says I can not start a new thread? I clicked and page 3 and got the same error multiple times?

Yep, sure enough it is out of battery. I am running an OAL of 1.135" and have plunk tested cases. They fit fine and cycle fine. The trigger pulls straight to the rear with no resistance, no stacking, no break or release of the striker. If I cycle the slide with no ammo and pull the slide to the rear 1" and let it fly it won't fully return to battery unless I bump it on the end of the slide. I noticed the end of the LW bbl hood is dragging against the flat face of the receiver. I am not sure if it should touch there or if the small ears on either side of the hood should bear against the receiver? I ran out of time but plan to put the stock bbl in tonight to see what surfaces it bears against. If I add a drop of oil on the end of the bbl hood it will return to battery but I hesitate doing that because it would likely accumulate burnt powder residue on the oil.