igolfat8

I've used 165, 180 and 220 and prefer the 180 for general purpose target shooting or bowling pins. Clays, N320, WST, Bullseye and Titegroup all work well. N320 is my favorite powder and have produced the highest accuracy [for me].

^^^Wow , that's scary! Steer clear of Stack-On....

Duh, noobie can't spell either ^ Thanks I will check out the Ghost holster.

I did not know about it but thanks for letting me know.

So what is a good OWB holster for Glock 35 in IDPA?

So is there another timer that folks would recommend over the 7000? I read the 10 year old sticky at the top and its so confusing I can't make heads or tails which timer to buy.

Hello from another Buckeye.

I have Ghost triggers and springs in all my Glocks and have been really pleased with the results.

I will use tumble lube because I don't have a lubrasizer. Will the Lee 90005 round nose work as well?

I am thinking about getting a Glock 34 for winter time range paper punching, summer time IDPA and bowling pins. What Lee mold do you suggest, boolit nose profile and weight for best accuracy and feed reliability? I will be shooting light target and minor PF loads.

Is there a Glock aftermarket trigger which is shaped like a CZ 75B trigger? I am looking for a trigger that has more of a loop or hook on the bottom of it to keep the pad of my finger from dragging on the trigger guard.

I have been shooting Glocks for many years but always experience soreness on the side of my trigger finger tip. I noticed that my natural grip on a Glock has my index finger dropping or angling slightly downward towards the trigger. The end of the finger tip actually rubs on the trigger guard and the abrasion is what causes me soreness after a long range session. I don't think this is technique as much as the pistol doesn't fit my hand but I am open to opinions. My 1911 has the trigger more inline with the beaver tail and allows my index finger to extend straight forward and not angle down. I can shoot 1911s without the same trigger guard finger drag. It seems the Glock has a higher grip to lower trigger relationship which may lead to my index finger angling down towards the trigger while a 1911 has a lower grip angle. Based on this newly discovered difference does it make more sense to shoot pistols more similar to 1911's? Has anyone else noticed this and made the switch? I went to the LGS today and held about every pistol they had and the only pistols besides 1911s were CZ 75B. Are there other pistols to investigate that have a similar trigger to grip relationship?

I have had issues with WST dropping erratic weights in my 550B. Not sure others have had this or not but I find Clays, Bullseye and N320 all drop more accurately.

4.1 of Clays, 1.250 OAL, .470" crimp. I had feeding issues in my RO with any loads under 1.250" but as soon as I hit that length the feeding issues went away.

I use a stock trigger, Ghost connector and spring kit.Smooth, crisp break and lighter pull around 3 lbs.

Try the recluse formula. It drys over night with no sticky residue.

I have one and it works great.

My favorite is N320 for low recoil and the best accuracy out of my Glocks. I use Clays when I can't find N320 with nearly as good as accuracy. Sorry can't help with 10mm.

I keep reading where people say you can't tumble lube a single lube groove boolit but I beg to differ because I do and it works just fine in .380, .40, and .45 that I am shooting. I use a modified "recluse lube" formula which is a simple to cook recipe of 45% Lee Liquid Alox, 45% Johnson's Paste Wax and 10% low odor mineral spirits. Low smoke, sufficient lube for up to 1100 FPS, no leading and superior accuracy over jacketed and plated bullets from the usual suspects.

I'm using a FastFire III with their Glock slide mount. Works great for me.

Use a Wolf 10% extra power mag spring. Makes mags fly out.

180 Grain Berrys, Xtreme or Zero all work well in my G22. I like N320 or Clays for soft recoil and accuracy.

Try a Wolf 10% extra power spring. It makes the mags eject with greater speed.

OK, Since I have already tossed the individualized OEM primer trays years ago and the primers are in a glass jar now what do you suggest that I put them in that is more safe? A zip lock baggy perhaps?

Thanks for all the responses. So whats the difference between storing a pound or jug of powder in a jar, albeit plastic? Powder can go boom too. I am not a chemist and don't know what's inside of primers so maybe I am missing the big picture???