kneelingatlas

Wolff Springs sells a 13# hammer spring for the Beretta 92F which is the same.

It sounds like Rich just volunteered to take on the project for you Rabbi!

Anything is possible with enough dough to throw at it, but I don't know of anyone in the States making barrels for Tanfos, is there anyone in Canada set up to make a one off? Unfortunately 2011s dominate the custom market, and I don't think it would be feasible to modify a 2011 sight tracker blank to work in a Tanfoglio (besides the OD being slightly smaller).

I too have imagined myself getting to where it sounds like you are now; my plan is that once my progress levels off and I'm in danger of loosing interest to switch into another division and start again.

By progressive rate are you referring to a Sprinco or DPM?

I'd like to jump in as an underdog: A78548

I bought my race hammer from CZUSA.

1) When I installed the race hammer (highly recommended) I tested the resulting pull weights with hammer springs from 7.5# to 18#, I found that with my polished sear and hammer the pull weights ranged from 1#2oz to 1#10oz. I actually prefer the 18# hammer as the lighter springs made for a mush break. 3) Is your a 9mm? The 40 doesn't use a guide rod plug.

Got it. Sounds like you have two options: use a punch to deepen the dimple, or use a drill bit to get rid of it.

I had the same experience with the factory buffs. I think the problem is that the buffer shortens the stroke and the slide does not build enough momentum before it strips the round off the mag. This should be fixable by clipping a few coils off the recoil spring, but my gun has run flawlessly since I took out the buffer so I've been afraid to mess with it. I built a 9Major upper so maybe I'll experiment with buffers on that one just for safety's sake. I do believe the stock plastic guide rod everyone seems to want to get rid of provides some buffering as well (I have not yet worn mine out).

I tried the Sprinco in my TS after I lightened the slide. I wouldn't say it "reduced" the recoil as much as it changed the character of it: the impulse is more gradual almost with a bounce in it, but the difference is very slight. Sprinco has a 60 day money back guarantee, and when I emailed DPM, they promised to match it. I really, really wanted to love the Sprinco, but after shooting it with six different recoil spring weights I concluded that I might get used to it, but it would never be worth the cost to me.

If you like a 1911, I would wait for 22/44 version, I like the grip angle of a CZ, and my MRKIII is more like the grip angle of a Glock. Something I'm also not crazy about is the trigger hinge location, it's forward of the trigger so it swings up as well as back; I like the feel of a Buckmark better.

You're shooting the 9mm right? Does this happen with all your mags or just one? After it jams, do you just turn over the mag and the rounds fall out? (Salt shaker) I don't think the dimples have anything to do with it as they're below the follower at all times.

I'm no GM, so take this advice with a grain of salt, but put away the timer for now. It seems to me a lot of shooters regret trying too hard to go fast before they could shoot As confidently.

The comp you just got should be threaded M15x0.75, just so you have a starting point.

Can you see a butt weld inside the tube? I know the 26 is made of two tubes welded together and can hang up at the weld.

Picture? If it's a standard sight, the rear sight from a Baby Eagle will fit, but the front was a dovetail on the BE, and yours most likely comes in from the front... An adventurous smith would weld up the dovetails front and back, then start over. I would suggest the cut from something common like Glock or 1911.

The Tanfoglio dovetail is wider than CZ, Glock or 1911, so it's a matter of welding it back up, then milling a new dovetail. Is yours cut for the Super Sight or the standard?

Hog Hunter, You sound exactly like I did when my LGS had a 9mm TS on the shelf: "what's with this cheesy plastic magwell and trigger?" "why are the sights so tall?" "the grip sucks!" "that's a lot of dough for a CZ". I had a relative who could not stop talking about his TS, but I just didn't get it??? Then one night I was shooting a steel match and between stages I saw a TS .40 in the rental rack, so I finished the match with it and fell in love. Once I did a few unloaded starts with my new TS, the big rear sight felt like it was made to rack the slide. I also run Hogue rubber grips on mine. The TS is specifically designed for USPSA Limited division, so if that's not what you're interested in shooting, it's a lot of extra money. In limited you need .40 to shoot major, so with a standard frame .40, you're limited to about 14 rounds, but with the TS, you can get 21. That's the big appeal. If you just want to punch holes in paper, an SP01 in 9mm is the best CZ option in my opinion.

Birchwood Aluminum Black is to be applied with a Q-Tip! I poured out the bottle into a cup and submerged the part... it looked like a bubbling witch's cauldron and when I stuck my face down in it to fish out the part, I inhaled the most caustic fumes I've ever encountered. Nose burning, snot pouring out, I thought I was going to die. Three days of a nasty head cold later I was fine. Never again...

Meat Pie, what about this idea: -buy a standard large frame 4.5" 9mm barrel (no cone) -turn the end of the barrel down to .575" OD (it's 15mm right now, or .591") -thread it .575X40 -install the cone fit Thundercomp I'm assuming the cone on the Brazos comp would be similar enough to lock up in your Tanfo slide with little modification, but I've never handled one, so it's just a guess.

I think I'll shoot limited next match and see how it feels.

At a match on Saturday the match director was in my squad and commented on my shooting: "I see you can shoot, you trigger work is excellent, now you just need to go faster without shooting faster". I know my time is lost in movement from one array to another and I'm pretty sure I would move faster if I had more confidence in my stage plan, but the question is how? The obvious answer is to simply shoot more matches, but I'm hoping someone has a more efficient suggestion. I shoot L10 with the idea more reloads will teach me to plan the stage better, but should I just load up 21 and blast through the stage just to get used to moving faster without worrying about double the reloads?

I would be interested to see how many of those with broken barrel lugs were using stainless steel guide rods and how many were using the plastic factory one? I know the factory buffers cause problems with the short slide stroke, but it seems to me the plastic head of the stock guide rod provides some buffering action as well. Perhaps stock buffer could be used reliably with a few coils clipped off the recoil spring, has anyone tried this? I'm thinking that's what I'll try before I shoot my 9major top end too much.

Polishing the sear surfaces and hooks of the stock hammer, in combination with a 13# hammer spring yielded about 1 1/2# trigger pull. I recently switched to the race hammer to see if it could possibly get any better. Before installing the new hammer, I used a felt wheel and automotive polishing compound to put a mirror finish on the hooks and sides where the hammer touches the frame. The weight was not drastically changed, but the overall travel was cut by more than half! The limits of travel created by the pre and over travel are just over one mm at the tip of the trigger. I played with hammer spring weights from 7.5# to 18# and got trigger pulls from 1# 2oz to 1# 10oz. I actually went with the 18# hammer spring because it feels faster and more crisp. The only further modification I might try is cutting the spur off the hammer to reduce mass.