kneelingatlas

I made that one so long to clear the thumb rest on table starts. That's an old picture, that TS is an Open gun now!

I resent that implication I actually only have two for large frame and they're on pistols st the moment, but now I'm thinking I need to stock up on small frame magwells while I can! It's a damn shame Henning isn't going to keep making these, they're the best I've ever used, I've thought of adapting them to work on CZs.

I don't have time to finish my own projects, so no

This is an 'old style' CZ 85C trigger; while brand mixing is not Production legal I think you'd be hard pressed to find someone who could tell the difference... Production rules are stupid, that's why I shoot Open

Who Me? I do everything I can myself, I have a drill press with a milling vice and a hand threader, so I can do most everything. The one project I sent out did not go well, so I plan to avoid that in the future. I would say if you're even remotely mechanically inclined you can do all the common mods on these pistols and anything really wild you need to contact one of only a few gunsmiths in the nation (this forum is the best place to find those guys).

Looks an awful lot like this one but three times as much money...

you'll have to have it made: http://www.highercapacity.us/Pistol.html

Here's a great trigger job thread I didn't even know existed: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=42644.0

You can't correctly call your shots if your gun is not shooting where it's pointing IMHO. Calling your shots is the best way to know if your gun is zero'd I never shoot off a bench because I've never shot off a bench in competition. When you shoot off a bench you're looking through a different part of your eye and your body mechanics are all different.

That looks and awful lot like an old style CZ trigger which can be had for $40...

Anyone ever try a dab of JB weld on the back of the sear cage? Seems like and easy way to fill the void...

Yup

The opening is smaller plus it's generally tighter so it needs to be fit all over. I got mixed up and put a small mag well on a large frame, I beat it on but it went, then I noticed it was the wrong one, woops.

Of course

Are you talking about this trigger: That's a SAO trigger which I don't think is legal in Production either, the issue was discussed here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194321&hl=%2Bsa+%2Btrigger#entry2152516

I've never heard the phrase, but I can imagine it involves tightening up the sear cage in the frame; I have a gunsmith manual from the P9 glory days which talks about welding the back of the sear cage and grinding it to fit tight. The reasoning is that a loose sear cage needs more sear engagement to prevent hammer follow than a tight one. It really only matters when you're pushing the envelope with really light triggers (in the one pound range). I've noticed the Tactical Sport sear cages have springs at the back to tighten them up, resulting in a lighter, cleaner break.

Is you convert your Limited Pro to SAO it will no longer be Production legal, Limited would be the best place for it at that point.

If you were using a Shadow upper, no one would know the difference, but a SA converted to DA? I dunno, I feel like it's been discussed, but since it's an OEM slide with the same profile I don't see why not per 21.3.

Not to mention the SP01 frame is indistinguishable from the SP01 Shadow frame.

I'd say yes per appendix D4 21.3

You can also take a regular three sided file and sand the teeth of one side.

If you REALLY stock up (or split it with a few buddies) they offer deep discounts on 25K+ bullet orders (you can mix/match calibers/weights).

The factory springs are rated in kg, I think my Hunter came with 5.5kg and 6.3kg recoil springs which puts them in the 12-14lb range with the hammer springs in the 18-20lb range.

I'm in the same boat, I've begun sorting mine by coil diameter to figure out what they are relative to one another. I also recorded some diameters of know springs for comparison: Recoil springs: 10# - 0.0385" 11# - 0.0390" 12# - 0.0400" 13# - 0.0405" 14# - 0.0415" Long Hammer springs: 8.5# - 0.0335" 11.5# - 0.0375" 13# - 0.0390" EAA Short Hammer Springs: 13# - 0.0285" 14# - 0.0315" 15# - 0.0315" 16# - 0.0315" 22# - 0.0345"

Sure you could make a base pad work, that's what I do: cut them to length, bend the tabs out and make 171.25mm mags. I get 28 without tuning, maybe I'll put one in a vise and see if I can get 29... ETA: welding tubes is a real bitch, but I guess if you do it low enough that the follower never touches the weld it won't be so bad. I welded a big stick from two short tubes and gave up before I got it smooth enough on the inside. It's also easy to get it too hot and distort the metal.