kneelingatlas

While the V port arrangement looks cool, I'm not sure its the best way to combat muzzle flip. If you think about opposing 45 degree force vectors, half of the force is wasted opposing the port on the other side.

Sarge, what charge are you loading there? I load 9.3gr in 9mm cases and if I don't slow it down as it indexes I fling powder all over the place.

If you reload in short sessions and experiment with different loads/calibers the time is not in the loading, but the setup/cleanup.

I've been down that road Saratoga and the major diameter of M15x0.75 threads and the minor diameter of 0.685x40 are too close to make it work. The other thing is that with the differences in geometry the 2011 comps point down at a slight angle when installed on a Tanfo barrel (I made a thread adapter for small frame barrels).

The CZ safety doesn't work on the EAA.

I like them

Starting point for OAL or charge weight? I've never used blue bullets before, but I have used 700X with 147s and it didn't work very well. 700X is a very fast powder which acts funny when over pressure (harsh, throws sparks...). So if you're going to try this combo you should load as long as possible to keep the pressure down, I would load one to 1.160", then keep setting the bullet deeper until it fits. As far as charge, 2.9gr got me 125 PF when loaded to 1.108", but only 123 when loaded to 1.136". I liked 700X better for 40.

Aluminum, just adds weight and expense. Oh, and I prefer the Cheely over the Quinn because it sets the glass further back, but the Quinn has a thumb rest and is readily available...

Once I get a few free seconds I plan to test bullets from 135 to 220 in my new Stock II. So many guns, so little time. The struggle is real

Yes, the third port is dependent upon the female threads inside the comp extending all the way to the first port. On the factory threaded barrels I've seen the threads don't go all the way to the muzzle so what I would have to do is remove the original barrel, install a sacrificial barrel which is threaded all the way to the end, permanently bond it to the threads in the comp, then mill the first port right through the barrel, pull out the remainder and ream out the threads in my little barrel doughnut. I've done something similar on three port .40 comps to tighten the holes in the baffles. Another idea is to simply cut the comp in two, keep the cone part on the barrel, then screw a new comp on the part sticking out.

The low SA pull weight has little to do with the hammer spring and much more to do with the hammer hooks and sear. You can get a sub 2# SA with a DA over 5#.

There are plenty of us running 147gr over Clays. 124gr is another story. I love Clays! It's more predictable and consistent with lighter bullets because there's less pressure so I load it with 135s for minor and 115s for steel. The only pressure issues I've run into was with 147s loaded short: it got really inconsistent shot to shot "bang, bang, boom, bang, pop".

Nix the full dust cover, if the gas is doing it's job there's no need for extra weight!

I thought about that, but I don't know if I could handle the asemetry, so I might drill 4 1/8" holes to start, then made them progressively bigger Thank for the input; I know it's going to be a trick to get that first port to look good with those recessed areas where the V ports would go. Another idea is to leave the two little ports like a GT, drill out the V4 ports in the comp right where they go, then do the four holes at 12 o'clock. I feel like those two small ports in the comp are the reason the Gold team hits so hard in the hand. The 12 holes mitigate the muzzle flip, but not the straight back push.

Turning the two port comp into a three port comp is going to be a trick, so I might reevaluate when I have it in hand... Plan B is to just open up the first port, but I'm sure I'll be giving up a lot with that.

Awesome Hawk! It's about time we see some guns in this thread!?! I'd post mine, but I don't have any 2011s, yet

The OAL varys because you're measuring to the tip of the bullet, but you seating die touches the shoulder, so inconsistencies in the ogive of the bullet are what give you the variation.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773&page=1 As a rule of thumb (with an extended FP) an 13# hammer spring should set off most anything, an 11.5# hammer spring should set off CCI, WIN, REM and FED, where the 8.5# hammer sprung is pretty much FED only; DA trigger pulls capable are roungly: 8-6, 7-5, and 6-4 respectively.

Then again, the longer OAL, the more powder it takes to make the same PF... Accuracy also comes into play, I've heard of some shorter than SAAMI loads which were very accurate, so it's worth experimenting.

The shorter the OAL with a given powder charge, the higher the pressure, so if you're pushing the envelope pressure wise (like with heavy bullets and fast powder) the longer OAL can keep things acting the way you expect them to.

Same here...

Don't know yet There are some builders uncreasing the stroke on 2011s and the shooters who have them seem to like it; they say it shoots flatter and softer because the slide has less energy at the end of the stroke.

What do I have in mine? I lost track of spring weights a long time ago, now I just go by relative coil diameter... Maybe one of these days I'll make a spring tester and mark them.

The Hunter guide rod is two pieces pinned together so I just took it apart and ground it down with my chop saw.

11# sounds like a good place to start. When choosing a recoil spring here's what I do: fire two shots as fast as I can, if the second shot is high I go to a heavier recoil spring, if the second one is low, a lighter spring. Your load, gun, strength, technique will all effect this.