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doc88

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About doc88

  • Birthday 01/16/1963

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    Florence, SC
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    Horses, hunting, fishing, family
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    Robby Hewitt

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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. I think first one needs to know his desired neck tension. As mentioned in previous post .001-.003 is most common. I usually aim for .002. There are 2 ways I acquire that goal. One is with bushing dies and one is with expander mandrels. To select the proper bushing you need to know the outside diameter of a loaded round. That measurement is 2 times the neck wall thickness plus the diameter of the bullet. ie. Brass wall thickness is .014" for example and bullet is .308 ". 2 X .014 = .028 .028 + .308 = .336 .336" is outside diameter of a loaded round in that particular brass. Therefore a .334 neck bushing should give you the desired .002" neck tension. All this is related to brass spring back. If you anneal, which I highly recommend, spring back will not be an issue. I NEVER use the expander balls as they pull UP through the case neck and can really negatively effect concentricity of the loaded round. Straight loaded rounds shoot straight. Another way is using the expander mandrel. My experience is this way, although an additional step, gives the LEAST run out to your loaded round. I either use a full length non bushing sizing die or a bushing die that sizes the necks down about .005. Come back with a mandrel that sizes down through the top of the neck expanding the whole inside diameter at once. Using the above measurement I would use a .306" mandrel in this situation for a desired neck tension of .002". Brass spring back can be a bugger in all these procedures therefore careful measuring is needed when you first start sizing to confirm the results and or tweak the size bushing or mandrel. Controlling brass neck softness is a whole other conversation. There is lots of information on rifle specific forums such as Accurate Shooter, Long Range Hunting Forum, Longrange Only, and Snipers Hide. Good luck, research and ask lots of questions http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2019/04/reloading-tip-how-to-set-optimal-case-neck-tension/
  2. Terminus Zeus has become very popular on the other rifle forums and resale is probably better than the others listed. Bighorn has it's following as well. I have Defiance in various configurations on most of my rifles depending on use. All will do well with a CM but think about resale value if you ever plan to move it.
  3. I think this is a situation where muzzle awareness and trigger finger awareness are important. I have fallen a couple times in matches in mud or loose rock and all I can remember is as I was falling to keep the muzzle down range and trigger finger out of the trigger guard. That way you can get back up and keep shooting.
  4. I replaced both of my SV ambi's on my SV guns after they broke with Lonestar Innovations safeties. They have a lifetime guarantee and the notch under left side safety makes it easier to remove.
  5. I would agree that clear lenses would be best for indoor regardless of fiber color. However, racing red and green FO is a great combo outside on a sunny day. Cloudy day go back to a clear lens.
  6. I used to use Ghost until the retention got sloppy in them and all my mags fell out while running through a stage. I use DAA exclusively now. the SS ones, the plastic racers for production and the aluminum racers for limited. The Aluminum mag pouches are top notch and a little more expensive. Bullets out or forward is personal preference. I used to go bullets out in production but didn't like it for SS so I went back to bullets forward for everything.
  7. I'd say it depends on the barrel. Most custom barrel manufacturers say break in is not necessary as their barrels are hand lapped and most of the roughness is removed. Factory barrels ie. Remington, Browning etc may need some break in to prevent excess copper build up as their rifleing is going to be much rougher.
  8. This is what I've done with WSP's . May or may not work for you. First I don't use the top that you pour the primers through. It limits the vibration plus I can make adjustments on the go without it. I pour the primers out of the box into a Tupperware of some kind and then into the RF. I use the "A" plastic top piece which is suppose to have a little larger opening and is really for large primers. Adjust the opening so some of the primers are going through and some are falling out even if they are in the correct orientation. The goal as mentioned above is to have the primers come into the filler tube a little slower so not to get flipped. Play with the rheostat to find the sweet spot. It takes some tinkering but you'll figure out the combination. CCI's run through like butter. Certain primers just work or don't work as good as others. Federal LPP are a no go in my RF but Winchester LPP work great. Nature of the beast I guess.
  9. I would agree with this whole heartedly. Make live fire practice similar to match practice including the mental game. Visualize in your live practice as you would in a match. I try to practice my mental game as much as my shooting game. As Smithcity said put a large emphasis on cold live fire practice.
  10. Blue bullets have been very consistent. I believe they also give Enos forum members a discount. Don't hold me to it but I am sure they did at least at one time.
  11. 230gr RN with Hodgens Clays here but I here Ramshot Competition is usable as well. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
  12. Yup reloading dry fire practice is a must. Biggest downside of SS but worth it to gain the speed needed.
  13. The 45 is nice and to me easier to shoot than the 40. The guns usually run better. The only hiccup I've had with a 45 is a broken extractor. The 9's and 40's never seem to get through several matches with out a hang up. Stage planning to me is a little easier with SS major but I'm a simpleton. Shoot 4 targets (8 rounds) reload, shoot 4 targets reload and so on. Yes, 45 components cost a little more to reload but so what if it's what you enjoy. Good luck with the 45 SS.
  14. Another vote for EGW U die for sizing and decapping. From there the bullet feeder expander and Dillon seater and crimp dies. My ammo has been very consistent with this setup.
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