Carmoney

Question for the OP: Regarindg those "chewed" marks on the extractor lugs--the spots where bountyhunter has added the red arrows in the post directly above--are those spots where metal is actually missing or displaced, or are they actually high spots where there is excess material left behind in the machining process? (I think it's the latter.)

Isn't that a Pinnacle release?

Oh, absolutely you can! Changing the sear spring tension can make a huge difference in the trigger pull weight. Huge.

When I saw the topic of this thread, I thought maybe Gregg had finally sold his Model 27-7 for his $2000 asking price, and I could finally quit getting those weekly notifications from Gunbroker! ;-)

You are still bitching about the 8-shot thing, Bill? Time to move on. You don't even shoot revolver anymore.

"Guess what, Honey? I'm taking you on a cruise!"

I'll bet you will have to pull some strings to get rid of that username!

Get the right powder. Especially with heavy bullets in the 160-gr. range, it is awfully easy to have high pressures. With the right powder, there should be no sticky extraction. You're playing with fire.

Who in the world has time to train and practice? Seriously! Who?

Yeah, for some weird reason that I still don't understand, cutting weight off a 617 hammer seems to reduce ignition reliability. (Exactly the opposite of what we have noticed with centerfire guns.) I never warmed up to the Apex 617 hammer--we put one in Bob Perdue's 617 and it didn't really seem to help. Perhaps others have had a different experience. For now, my advice would be to stick with the factory hammer with full spur.

Unless there is an actual problem, don't remove the cylinder or take off the sideplate. Loctite the screws (blue) and don't dick with it. Use synthetic motor oil (very sparingly), with no grease of any kind. Keep it clean under the extractor (do not put oil under the star).

Just ask the MD how he wants revo shooters to start. You want to make sure all the wheelgunners are on the same page.

Everybody needs to understand something here. Dropping in a Randy hammer (or Carmonized hammer) will not make the action significantly lighter, in and of itself. Simply dropping it in--you will not feel the difference. You will need to adjust the spring tensions downward to make the DA pull lighter. A lightened hammer will allow you to adjust the mainspring tension down a little further, and still retain ignition reliability, than a stock hammer will. This is due to the snappier lock time, which is more efficient for crushing the primer cups.

Ah ha! Here's the thing, the 929 doesn't really do anything that a 627 can't. BUT if you are new to revo, an 8 shot 9mm is a rest way to go. Let's face it, short Colt brass is a pain to find, 9mm load data and variety of bullets are greater. Plus the 6.5 barrel is SWEET. So yeah if you are all set with a 627, no need to change. If not, 929 time! Exactly correct. I'm disapppointed with S&W for the huge delay in delivering on the 929 promise. Their initial timing was excellent (introducing the model at the exact moment that USPSA began allowing 8-minor), but by the time the guns are actually available, some of the momentum will have been lost.

Lawyers don't wear tweed jackets with leather patches on the elbows. That's more of a college professor thing. But fashion aside, I'm getting tired of bigotry toward my profession (despite the "present company excepted" disclaimer). Most of the lawyers I know are honorable people. And I know a hell of lot more of them than you do, Jerry.

This has been my personal experience with him and Kay both. I squadded with them at High Plains a couple of years ago. How many perfect doubles did he shoot?

There's no need to send the press back to Dillon for something that simple. If you call the 800 number, they will send you the replacement part you need to fix your machine. You'll be back in action in just a few days. The way I decided to "upgrade" my SDB many years ago was to buy another SDB and bolt it to the bench right next to the first one! I keep one set up for small primers and one set up for large. And in a pinch, if something happens to one of the machines, I can always scavenge parts from the other for a few days while I wait for replacement parts to arrive.

Agreed. A 4# double-action is going to have sluggish rebound and spotty ignition reliability. You can only take them down so far.

Millett, if you can find one. They stopped making them years ago.

My hotter .357 and .45 ACP pin loads would make 250 PF. They were great for when the pins got waterlogged or lumpy.

Which is fine, as long as you're using brass with consistent primer pocket depth. Keep in mind it's not how far below flush that matters--what matters is getting the primer fully bottomed out.

Oh, hell yes! Maybe better, because your crown is being cut to perfectly match the bore opening, rather than the exterior of the barrel body. I can't imagine any reason to hassle around with a lathe. If there is an experienced revolversmith who crowns barrels with anything other than hand-turned tools, I would be extremely surprised.

Jim, primer pocket depth varies (particularly if you're using mixed brass), so I have never bought into the idea that measuring seating depth means anything. What you want is to fully seat the primer, so that there is absolutely no further movement of the primer when the firing pin (or hammer nose) strikes it. Note that factory ammo usually does not have fully seated primers. You want the primers to be seated nicely below flush, enough that they are fully seated and starting to flatten out a little bit. Don't crush them in so hard that you can see the anvil poking up through the primer cup!

Yeah, I think that is exactly the right approach. It's more of an art than a science (i.e. harder to explain than to do), but the goal is to have the lightest mainspring tension that will give 100% ignition (and I don't mean 99%!) with good match ammo, and then bring down the tension on the rebound spring so that balances nicely with the mainspring tension. You can lighten it up a lot from factory spec and still have nice snappy rebound, but only if the mainspring tension is similarly reduced. Using Federal primers and good primer seating "hygiene," you should be looking at somewhere around 6 or 6.5 pounds (although frankly, it's dang difficult to accurately and consistently measure the DA pull on a revo). I completely agree with loctiting down the strain screw. Adjust the mainspring tension so that it is correct with the strain screw fully tightened down (I usually shorten the strain screw somewhat, and put additional arch in the mainspring), then put a drop of blue loctite on the threads and tighten that baby down hard! The other key to reliable functioning? Once you get it right, don't dick with it. There is no need to take the gun apart unless you're having a problem. My 627 has been in use a lot lately, and I can't remember the last time I had it apart. (Old hands on BE have heard me say all these things before!)

Here's what you want: http://4wheelguns.com/IDPACompliant.html