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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Las Vegas, NV
  • Real Name
    Bryce Edwards

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Edwards30's Achievements

Looks for Target

Looks for Target (4/11)

  1. I’ve ready through a fair bit of this thread and it seems like some early issues have been resolved. Are these good to go for a Gen 3?
  2. So if I read it correctly, you buy the trigger at $150 and then send it to him for the $250 service. Is that right? I am currently using the tactical trigger at about 4.25lbs. I wouldn’t mind lighter but would have to see how the feel changes I guess.
  3. You’re perfectly fine to rack your slide with the front serrations even with the mill job. My 34 is milled as well and on every unloaded start I use the front serrations. No issues at all.
  4. I saw that same post on Facebook and was curious of the answer.
  5. I have heard of people having to shave a base pad to fit. Happened to someone I know shooting open with Taran pads. I would give TTI a call and see what they say. Report back here with what they say.
  6. Both of them fit the gauge. Is that what you’re asking?
  7. At that sort of mileage, you might as well replace all the springs. I was having issues with weak ejection and a new ejector from a Gen 5 helped. That wouldn’t be your issue though since it’s a new problem. Big Tex Ordinance is where I grab my Glock parts from, they are closed today though and have their site off it appears.
  8. I run a Jentra uncaptured and when I clean my gun, I just put a drop on my finger and wipe it. So just a thin film. No issues in countless rounds. I don’t put much lube on my Glock in general.
  9. I currently shoot a Glock 34 Gen 3 with a milled slide. When my Jentra rod failed, I used my OEM guide rod assembly without issue. Physics would say that you should feel less movement with a lighter slide. You may even want to mess with different spring weights because of the lighter slide. One thing to consider, does it come with the MOS adapter plates? I believe 4 should be included and those may be needed depending on which optic you use. Also, you may want the backstraps.
  10. I don’t know of any like that, but you might try suppressor height ones to see if that helps. I shot with suppressor height on my production Glock. https://tarantacticalinnovations.com/tti-ultimate-fiber-optic-sights-set-for-glock-with-optic-cut/
  11. Check out DZshooting on Instagram. He uses a GoPro Max and then edits it as if it is following him from uprange. Very cool setup. You could also do an aerial view like this, and a hat cam >>Youtube This method uses an large light pole with a GoPro on top. There is also something like this, although I have no experience. https://shop.movensee.com/en/ I simply ask someone to follow me or have my wife do it.
  12. I just yank them off. I have yet to bend a spring.
  13. Nothing really changed on mine aside from moving my last mag pouch in front of my my prior first mag pouch. I kept my holster the same and have not added a magnet.
  14. I'm only about a year into USPSA but at the beginning, steel was horrendous for me. I was shooting production and would do multiple standing reloads while trying to hit steel plates at 10-15 yards. I also do not have access to steel to shoot outside of matches so I ordered the Go Fast Don't Suck decal sticker pack and have been using those in dry fire. I realized for me it wasn't just one thing that was making me miss. It was a combination of not letting my gun settle while transitioning and jerking the trigger on precision shots. Working the transitions is easy to verify in dry fire, I think for trigger, you just have to be honest in dry fire and call your shots. You could always setup headbox only in live fire to work on precision as well.
  15. My main comp gun since I started has been a Glock 34 Gen 3. I looked at the TLR-9 but went with a TLR-1HL instead because there were more holster options. I’m currently running a T-Rex Arms Ragnarok. I’m happy with it so far how it shoots, physics would say it has to help to have weight out on the front.
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