gotm4

There are two kinds of VTAC modular handguards now. One is made by JP and the other is made by Troy Industries. I like the new Troy Ind. made Viking Tactics (VTAC) rails. They come in 7", 9", 11" and 13" all of them include two 2" rail segments and a one 4" segment. They are priced higher than JPs but JPs don't come with the rail segments. I have a 13" one on my 3gun rifle.

That's what I use on the handguard nut/slip ring too. On LaRue, PRI and YHM and similar barrel nuts I use a 5 pin PRI barrel nut wrench.

11.9oz 5" slide lightened by Greeley Custom. I use a 12.5lb recoil spring and a 23lb mainspring.

I got a Samsung N130 at Best Buy just before Christmas with Windows 7 starter and a 160GB harddrive and 1GB RAM. I upgrated to Windows 7 Professional and upgraded the RAM to 2GB from Crucial.com. I really like Windows 7 it runs well and thus far works will all my stuff. The computer was $300

I agree. This will probably replace my Limited gun.

We shot the one at York last year. It was absolutely the funnest match I've even shot!

Awesome!

Team VA Arms will be there (Robb Jensen, Dan Lipscomb, Brett Simon).

I'll be there all four days representing my employer (a FFL/SOT).

For complete lowers I like BCM followed by LMT. For stripped many are fine I like DPMS, Charles Daly Defense and Smith and Wesson.

Congrats to you both!

I use a Glock striker spring in my Pro. It's actually a little stronger than the stock S&W part. I also run stock recoil springs. The M&P unlocks very quickly, I feel that stock is best.

Sounds to me like it needs a new sear and or trigger bar.

"jams" (these are properly called stoppages) "quick question" (these are always complex questions)

What brand of parts?

Bobby is the MAN! Great dude to do business with!

On my Rem700 (.308) I use an AAC Cyclone. I'll be using for deer hunting this year on my 6.8SPC upper as well. For 3gun I don't use one. I may add a Noveske switchblock and then use one on a AAC 51 tooth muzzle brake which kinda looks like a Bennie Cooley brake. I use an AAC M4-2000 Mod 07 on my 10" SBR.

Hey I traded a SIG 229 for the M&P45 from Ernest and I got no magwell...... I'll have to call him!

Run it very wet. It does need more gas because it has less momemtum when moving thus it runs out of energy sooner. When used in conjunction with a JP gas block and a muzzle brake/comp it does a very nice job of reducing muzzle lift and felt recoil.

You can have a good machinist gunsmith fix the gas port. A 16" carbine length gas system should have a gas port of .063" and no bigger than .067" This is from Randall at AR15barrels.com: Remove the front sight base. Drill down about 0.15" to 0.175" with a #43 drill bit. Tap this top 2/3 of the barrel wall thickness 4-40. Install a 4-40 x 1/8 setscrew firmly into the port until it stops against the shoulder you left at the bottom. Verify that the setscrew is about 0.025" to 0.050" below flush from the surface of the gas block seat. Peen the top of the setscrew so it's locked into place. Drill down through the setscrew with a 1/16" drill bit. Re-assemble the barrel.

I have the Nordic for Benelli on my FN.

I use these in http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1609/Product/SAF_T_ROUND .223 Rem and 12ga. These are pretty cool as they pop out when you pull back on the charging handle since the bolt hangs on to them with the extractor.

I wear a XL in 5.11 polos but really require a XXL from TechWear as XLs are a little snug.

VLTOR came up with the intermediate length gas system designed for 18" barrels. I'd give them a call.

Congrats Tod.