raz-0

Way back I ran a 1.5-5 and a 1-4. Then for a long while I ran a 3moa dot. Now I'm going back to magnified, but a good quality scope. With the popular 1-6 and 1-8 3gun scopes, the 1x is a world of difference from the early days of 1-4x scopes. We'll see how I do with it this season, but the guys I shoot with were a collection of red dots, irons and 1-4x people. Everyone is moving to decent 1-6 or 1-8 glass that has daylight visible illumination. The answer to your question of "am I costing myself time" is yes. By the raw, heads up, only first place matters and how close am I to it type of counting, you are costing yourself time. By the the metric of can I go faster compared to myself type of counting the answer is yes. The more long distance shots, the bigger the yes becomes. The more bay stages, the smaller the yes becomes, especially the yes to you vs. you. Compared to a 1-4 with an fairly unforgiving eye box, you will pick up time on close in stuff and small bays moving to a dot. However, with the newer scopes you aren't picking up much time if any using a dot because the new, good scopes are so forgiving of eye position at 1x. On top of that, very often to keep bay stages remotely challenging, the rifle is either omitted in 3 gun, or you wind up with reduced targets or headshots only, or some other situation where sight offset matters. In these instances, the gap may narrow even more because the reticle may be useful in establishing the right holdover faster, or because you can spend a second to bump up the magnification and be really precise on a reduced target at 50 yards. Compared to somene of similar skill to yourself you are probably picking up a couple seconds per bay stage. Maybe. But then there's longer ranges. Where you will give back those seconds pretty rapidly. Especially as you hit the edge of your visual abilities. I've gotten pretty good at hitting 6" steel offhand at 100, but for me at 200 anything below 8" becomes more about chance and accuracy through volume than about any actual skill. Even if the target is big enough that hitting it shouldn't be challenging, at distances where canting starts to matter, having a reticle that helps you to estimate reasonably if you are canting badly is advantageous. Then there's situational things. Got even a minor astigmatism? Prismatic or magnified is for you! It's humid and just cold enough to be flurrying? Guess how fast your optics are going to fog up? The magnified optics with the glass slightly recessed from the end of the tube out on a cantilever mount will fog up slower. On a 100 yard stage that gives you much more opportunity to actually finish before the fog gets you. aimpoint micros and clones are the worst in that situation. You got a shot up hunk of ar500 out there agaisnt a gravel back drop? Well the AR coatings that help make the rd dot work rob you of contrast. The good 1-X scopes have way better contrast, so those targets are easier to see and aim at faster. Also remember canting? From normal positions, canting may not be an issue if you practice your technique, but sometimes 3 gun is about pretzelizing yourself to accommodate stage demands. Then there's the matter of fun. If we wanted to shoot by ourselves, we wouldn't be at a match. Last match of the season I went to had 70 something people. It had 6 limited shooters and we weren't even placed all that close together, so it isn't even like you could just say I'm here to beat Bob who is always a bit better than me.

I went with the titanium firing pin to keep the mass down which gives you more margin of safety for an accidental drOp of the gun with a series 70 setup. A light trigger shoe/stirrup does similar for drops and a light trigger. The strut I did because it wasn't much more and was the only in stock extended strut. The cap I did because it everything else was titanium and the steel one I had on hand was machined like poop and very rough. The titanium one was machined nicely. In terms of feel and speed? Doesn't really do much that nicely machined steel wouldn't. Even the fast guys don't hit the cyclic rate of a 1911 going full auto. If it added speed it would add it there. But it's all part of a nice 1.8 lb trigger that isn't picky about primer choice.

Hmm looks like the October match runs into blue ridge mountain. Are we doing the shoot them all or shoot for fun thing this year? Also, got a date for the 3-man match yet?

Only time I have had issues with .40 at 1.135 is with a barrel that was supposedly finish chambered but was not, or has been done incorrectly. A number of thing can cause feeding issues. Check your feed lip dimensions and make sure the bullets aren't dragging on the front as they feed.

It needs lube, but not on the ramp imo. You want something that doesn't dry up to soon. I use slide glide or slide glide light most of the year. A thicker oil like fp-10 in really cold weather. My 1911s will go 1000 rounds between cleanings. Depending on my powder, the mags might not. Using titegroup and 230gr fmj bullets, running 5x 10 round mags as my setup, I'd get to about 750 before I'd get enough carbon on the feed lips of a mag to cause issues. With slower burning universal clays, I didn't get anywhere near that amount of gas escaping before the bread expanded and sealed, so no carbon fouling on the mags. With my 2011 in 40 a q-tip to the feed ramp and adding a few drops of lube to the rails, it can go indefinitely it seems. It usually gets kind of gross around 4k. With the description of your problem I'd check your mags or your ammo or both. It's possible the feed lips are out of spec and causing the bullet to feed slightly low. Alternately, the ammo could be longer than the mags or gun likes, and the bullet sets back a bit when it malfunctions and works the next time. It could also be anything that slows the follower pushing up the next round or alters the geometry of the feeding bullet vs ramp. So burrs on witness holes in the mags, a burr on the firing on hole, pinched feed lips from getting stepped on. Spread feed lips that allow too much follower tilt (this one is represented by failures at the last 2 or 3 rounds, and more common with traditional followers rather than solid ones like trip or Wilson offer). The previously mentioned carbon build up on feed lips causing drag. A poorly prepped or finished extractor causing drag as the case head slides up the breech face. Too much extractor tension (although less likely to be intermittent in my experience), or some piece of crud in the extractor tunnel affecting extractor tension. The 1911 is from the days labor was cheap, and the design makes use of that. A lot of production 1911s can use a bit of a fluff and buff, but the design isn't inherently picky once it is set up right. Also, it probably has the most number of manufacturers making mags to fit it. Mag quality varies a LOT, and like every semi auto, sketchy mags mean sketchy reliability. Tripp mags are imo the best. With the wilsons coming in second (I do not like their 10 round.45 mags I've seen too many have the over insertion tab snap at the weld from repeated use where the tab and gun didn't agree 100% on dimensions and tolerances). Metal forms with the rounded follower are also good, and my 7 round metalform mags even with gi style split foot followers always ran. Cmc 10 round mags can be made to work reliably but need a fair amount of maintenance with feed lip dimensions. I'd readjust them to where they needed to be every couple of matches.

http://shop.fiberopticproducts.com/Fiber-Optic-Lighting/Fluorescent-Fiber Its by the meter and about half what Dawson charges per foot.

When I was buying pre cut rod from th sight makers it died pretty rapidly. Buying by the yard the fat stuff almost never dies. The skinny stuff is pretty durable. Pre cut was lasting about 2-3k or less no matter the gun, but with Dawson front sights. My m&p, fatter rod, replaced it about every 8000-10000 rounds and was shooting titegroup. It wouldn't break but would get enough soot embedded in it to get dim. 1911 in .45 with thin rod would break rods every 3k or so, but the sight was fit wrong. It broke too after a while. Fit one right and the fiber lasted much longer. My custom 2011 is only on its second rod at about 40k rounds. It used the bulk rod from day one. Also break free spray is rough on fibers. Some of the longevity is due to having moved to guns with lots of polymer and away from using the spray.

I was shooting production with .40 in an m&p before getting my limited gun built. 137pf out of the m&p was about 150 out of the longer 5" barrel. It runs fine down into the 145ish area with a 15lb progressive rate recoil spring and a pretty light main spring. Garry natale said it was 17lbs, but he also said the 17 lb spring I sent in with the box of parts wasn't and it feels lighter than a lot of others I've felt in other guns. Its also a try topped ball cut slide. Not a full weight unique slide. Kind of like a bushing 5" eagle with a tri top

You can't put holes in the slide to lighten it, and you can add weights to the gun, and it can't be bull barreled unless short barreled. It alos used to forbid full length dust covers. Now it forbids full length light rails. Also no adding weights, tungsten liners and such. But you can do short dust cover, front and rear fancy serrations, tritopped and seriously opened up ejection port and be fine on a bushing gun. You can field a pretty fancy gun as long as it has no holes where most don't, it fits in the box, and makes weight.

Leave the hammer down and just move the trigger against the sear spring. If your trigger is even halfway different, there won't be that much difference at speed.

I tried a paddle release. I had lots of issues with unintended activation. I have big hands and reach wasn't the issue. I just needed a teensy amount of length to not have to shift my grip when using it. Swapped the paddle for one of the little round extension buttons and it works great.

I adapted an aluminum wedge mainspring housing to help with the had size issue. If you can't tuck the Maxwell in enough, push your hand out. Seems to work for me.

OK, just how does that happen? Does anyone know if the guy taping/picking up brass has significant hearing loss or something? I'm not grasping how that much of a stage gets shot without someone down range freaking out and yelling stop as loud as they can. Perhaps something regarding pit layout and not being able to tell if the shooting was their pit or the pit next door? As it looks on video, it seems like quite an epic level of failure to communicate. We have a belt and suspenders kind of approach to safety. This stage it looks like it was pants around the ankles and only the shooter keeping the 4 rules in mind and shutting it down that kept it form being a bad bad situation.

I got mine very early on. Haven't shot it in about 3.5 years for a match, but it has about 37,000 rounds on it. Mostly 135pf 165-170gr .40. Killed a striker really early on with dry fire, haven't replaced anything since other than sights and upgrading to a storm lake barrel. Still runs like a top.

I have an EGW 4 in 1, a 4 hole, and their 50 hole chamber checker for .40. Loaded ammo will not fit all the way down with certain profile bullets if the cartridge OAL is not short enough. everything I tried that was 180gr and RNFP loaded to 1.137 won't work. Aiming for 1.131 as the center of the bell scatter plot on mixed headstamp used brass gets most of mine fitting with a 180gr RNFP bullet. Factory ammo will fit as it is often sized to an OAL under 1.130.

I think the answer is to simply not drop the striker during dry fire. There are like 5 or 6 revisions of the striker at this point. I broke my first gen in VERY short order. Like less than 200 dry fire pulls. They sent me a replacement, and I picked up 2 second generation strikers on my own dime. Had a trigger job done with one of the second generation strikers in it. It's lasted about 40k rounds so far before my M&P 40 got semi-retired due to me getting a 2011. I don't think live fire is the issue if that makes you feel any better.

Same thing I do with my 1911, 2011, and baby eagle. I just pull the trigger without the gun being cocked. For the M&P, that usually means actually dry firing the gun after checking it is clear once per session. I spent a couple months while I was unable to get out and shoot with the baby eagle dry firing with the double action pull. I can tell you dry firing with a pull lighter than actual hasn't caused me problems, but that time spent with the full weight double action caused me all sorts of problems with my technique. I then switched to just taking up the slack in single action mode, and had more issues. THen jsut moved to putting the safety on, which disconnects the trigger and using that mode. IMO practicing with that much focus on where the trigger breaks is emphasizing something that not really a skill for the game, and thus you can wind up training for something that does not work well under actual match conditions. Following the adage of only perfect practice makes perfect, I find that just using a slack uncocked trigger mechanism is the least imperfect form of dry fire for me. YMMV.

They used ot have e-paper apps for the orginal nook. Now they don't don't count on them even opening up their walled garden to something like practiscore, much less them making it an unlocked epaper tablet. I know I wouldn't want the support calls or reviews that would generate. That being said, the cost to build them has dropped so much that it is possible they are making money on them. I don't know what their warranty/customer support costs are, but the parts, shipping, etc. aren't the razor thin margins they once were and still are (mostly) on the tablets. We are also in the realm where someone like CED could probably go to a chinese manufacturer and say we want this, and you could have something equivalently capable for a reasonable price (i.e. not a huge premium over a timer).

I design stages and run a match. I am (was) over 6'6" (and shrinking, thanks L4 and L5). I keep shorter shooters in mind, and per USPSA rules if you have a medical reason that you are unable to shoot a stage as described, exceptions can be made if given a suitable penalty. In the last 10 years or so shooting at least two matches a month, I can say being tall has benefited me maybe 20-30 times in a decade, and it is usually a lean or being able to get an upper a/b shot over a no shoot that others can't to save me an added position or a reload. With short ports, very teeny cooper tunnels, etc, it's usually a problem around 20-50 times a year depending on the stages people come up with that year. We use stockade fence for walls, so making aport too high is really a non issue. Leans and starting positions that are hands/feet on the Xs I have to be careful about. The start positions I have developed a feel for, the leans I usually try to snag someone short walking by.

Clean vs shine is between walnut and corn cob for me. MUCH lower dust though. It looks nasty sooner, but lasts about as long as corn cob does for me and actually comes out of the .223 cases. Works less well if it it very humid, and if you are one to add a bit of car polish, I'd recommend against it. It doesn't give up the dirt to a dryer sheet, but that trick never worked well for me with anything.

Already done in 1.0.14. Any specifics? Yes, everyone defaulted to squad zero rather than squad one. The docs say it should be one. EWS won't take zero. Other issue(s) were that something was up with either import of the masternames db, or autocomplete. First shooter of the day I go to register, autocomplete finds them, go to pick their division, and there are no choices. Couldn't complete that guy on that device. Late arrival who is in masternames, I try to enter him on all four devices in the pits, and only one of four has him. All devices imported the same reg.txt from the same sd card. Our masternames is 1755 people if that matters. Export to sd card was completely broken. If I tried export match the device gave me an error about failing to zip things up. If I tried to export scores, I got an archive that was not usable by winrar, filzip, 7zip, etc. The windows exporter tool was what I eventually used.

I only have one feature request of the software, and that is that the current android version doesn't seem to warn you you are leaving the scoring screen without entering a time. My volunteer types were getting all sorts of not happy about that and one shooter got screwed by a scorekeeper not paying attention. There were some other issues, but as far as I cna tell they are bugs, since the documentation implies they should behave differently than they do.

Probably was rubber and wobbling around

+1 to the OPs question. haven't found anything nearly as good ballistic advanced edition for the iphone.

That's not good. Got a barrel from them over the summer. Communication was fine, but it was clear that they were having supply channel issues that were pushing past their built in margin in delivery estimates to deal with supply channel issues. Don't know how much of that was mismanagement on their end and how much was due to suppliers and shops that do the work they can't do in house like nitriding.