nwhpfan

I asked the guy I buy bullets from (www.bnbcasting.com) which one since he sold both. He replied he wasn't 100% sure why but he sold 10x as many RN as FP. I figured all those shooters must be on to something so I've been buying RN ever since.

Factory G4

Thanks for the info.... I haven't yet figured it out. I have ruled out the striker because it happened with both a stock striker and the IDP....although the IDP nose does look a bit deformed. I'm not going to use the trigger bar, ejector block, or connector anymore. Although I really like the Ghost Edge Connector I'm going to stick with your standard 3.5 variety. I don't fully understand the connectors relationship to the trigger bar while resetting but it does look like as the connector and trigger bar snap off each other, it may cause the trigger bar to drop down allowing the firing pin nose to slip off. I don't know which part fails to make this happen, if this is what is happening, so I'm replacing all three parts. I really hate this stuff, I just want to shoot.

My glock is firing at reset. I've shot maybe 20k through it plus a years worth of dry fires. The trigger/trigger bar is stock and I have an IDP striker, Ghost Edge connector, and ZEV ejector block. Springs are newish Wolff replaced at the begining of the year. From what I can see....it looks like as the trigger is moving forward the bar it drops down allowing the firing pin to snap forward. Sure, I know I can put in a bunch of stock parts and this wll go away.... but I want to know which part(s) failed.

I shot .45 for a couple years. 185 with fast powder at about 133 PF. It ran a stock M&P just fine. I stopped only because of cost...otherwise I would still be doing it. I never hit a no-shoot, but I did get a few going the other way.

I got no difference between CCI 300 and 350 using 3.8 Clays and 230 coated bullets. Feel, chrono, etc. I wouldn't normally buy 350's, but somebody gave me 1k so I shot them up.

CR Speed

You are going to be bit slower with the G26 than a G24. Probably need to bump up the charge.

Maybe 15-20 rounds. You can tell pretty quick what the velocity is. Then I rest it and see what kind of accuracy I get.

I used a Ghost Edge Connector for about a year. Very nice. More of a "rolling break." My styles have changed and now I use a Zev race connector or whatever. I've used the 4.5# striker spring too. But when I switched from ZEV TRS to Ghost, it wouldn't reset. This using a G4. They have an extended magazine release which is Production legal and I've used it but I'm fine with a stock.

What happens when you fire a round... If you pull the trigger and take your finger out of trigger guard does it re-set?

I shot about 8lbs over last few years. 3.6g with coated 147 RN, 4.7g 124 MG's. It worked great, no complaints. I'll probably buy more. I can never really tell which powder is in which bullet so like said previous; it's subjective....

Don't know about PD (Precision Delta ?) but I'd say coated 147 and 2.8-3.0 TG is very popular in my area for USPSA and would be regarded as a very accurate load. I don't think so many would use it if it wasn't. I don't know how many you loaded of each at each step... If it were me, I think I'd make 20 or so at a well documented COL, charge, etc. Shoot it over the chrono and check for accuracy. If it didn't perform, figure out how to make it better. +/- charge, COL, etc. As for crimp, I just knock out the bell....

Their seems to be a few here in stock, not sure if it's the one your looking for. Good luck. http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Magwells-C708.aspx?m=108

Loaded.

I've shot some great groups but I'm usually about 2.5-3" at 25 yards. KKM bbl, 3g Bullseye with 147 coated RN.

I use the Zev trigger return spring and zev firing pin safety spring and haven't had a problem. I did have an issue with it not resetting when I replaced those springs with Ghost...so I went back to Zev. As for the safety on the trigger not slipping into it's slot, it seems that is your finger not depressing the safety to get it out of the way. If it is just barely dragging and not going in it's slot, you could sand just the tip off the back.

I load .223 on my 650. I have a Dillon case trimmer and it is great. I used a Little Crow WFT and it is great but not as fast. I use a swage-it to knock out the primer crimp and that is not supported by Dillon. Check it out and decide for yourself. Dillon Conversion kit and dies are great. Once brass is processed loading is just like pistol. Processing brass can be a pain but you can buy processed (resized, trim, crimp removed, clean, ready to load) for less than 10 cents a piece. You'll still be making great ammo for less than factory.

Around me it seems every shoots coated 147s and TG. 2.8-3.0gs.

Bullseye #1.

I think the package is worth what they charge and the cost is $499 on TTI. Factor in the price of the Glock + the work. If it's what you want, and it's less than what it would cost you to buy a glock and send it off, go for it.

I shot an M&P for awhile and there was no reset really. But I never worried about. It's like riding the brakes down the hill when you want to race up the other side. FWIW, I shoot a Glock now only because I had a hard time getting an accurate M&P and I broke a couple firing pins for no reason.

Yes, Personally I like a little daylight between the front sights as seen through the rear so the skinnier blade is better for me. I think it comes down to preference.

Tight Group

Their is not enough difference from 10-15 yards to make any difference. I think mathematically, the actual difference is like .000001 of an inch. That is within the margin of error for every pistol sight and eye combination ever made.