nwhpfan

If you want a light trigger, you'll get that with springs. Lighter striker spring, heavier trigger spring. As far as the kits, a lot of them is about eliminating over travel and pre travel. You may find that a 5$ worth of springs is all you need.

I enjoyed your video, thanks for posting. Have you done anything to your VP9? I guess there still isn't VP9L?

13lb ismi.

The 5# striker spring and extra power trigger spring feels the same enough to me as the 4.5# with the stock trigger spring...but the former ignites all primers so that's what I use.

4.8 180 SNS FP.

I have a lot of it and use 3.4 with 147 SNS from a KKM barrel Glock 34. It works fine. It meters amazingly accurate. It seems smokier than Bullseye using coated bullets. It is easily makes PF with .40 so it's nice to have it around. It makes the the powder hopper turn grayish/black which is slightly annoying.

I shot ".45 minor" for a couple years. 180/5 with 4.2 of BE. About 130 PF. Very accurate and soft shooting.

Heat up the grip with a heat gun and heat up the grip tape before you apply. Problem solved.

Fill it up with the new bottle. It's the same powder.

2.9/3.0 TG Coated 147 RN 1.155. 132 PF.

I've had inconsistent results with the Zev Competition Spring and lightened strikers. Pretty sure the Zev "Competition" spring is just a 4# spring. Seeing as how I get the same results on a trigger gauge from the Zev to a 4# spring, Wolf or Ghost. FWIW I had problems with Fed primers too and the 4# Zev combo. I up'd it to a 4.5# spring and still had issues with the Zev Striker - but I was not having problems with a stock striker and a 4.5# spring. I got rid of the Zev and went with an IDP striker and had no problems until I wore it out after about 50k rounds. I measured the IDP and it was now a bit shorter. I assumed I eroded the tip or it got hammered on and deformed. I moved on to Jaeger striker and broke it almost immediately but Jaeger sent me a new one. Spring quality changes from lot to lot as well. I had a Ghost Spring got 15k rounds and a years worth of dry fire. I had one seemed to go bad in half that time.

Yes I've had my Glock double. I had the overtravel stop adjust for too little travel. On reset the firing pin would slip of the trigger bar.

I've not had an issue with the trigger not resetting. I have had it not reset all the way past trigger safety. Some triggers just change the angle of the shoe so the trigger safety clears much sooner. Some connectors change this a bit.

It's working good for me out of a KKM G34. Small flakes, meter great, very consistent, low SD, lower smoke. Very accurate. Using coated 147 RN with 3.08 g over 10 throws.

Yes.

I had an XDM and got rid of it before I really gave it a chance. I kind of regret it now. Shooting a Glock I can see where the XDM has improved/ideal features .... or at least for me.

Every day you shoot a test group of your loads you should shoot a group of FM. That way you'll always know if it was you or not.

4.2 TG wtih a coated 180/185 was going around 750 FPS for me in an M&P. Very nice load. Very accurate.

I shot .".45 minor" for a couple years. I liked the big holes too. Always stretched to the next highest ring. I was shooting 185's with 4.3ish of Bullseye. I'd still be shooting it but it came down to pure economics. You get a lot more bang for your buck buying 125's. Had good results with 4.2 of TG too..

I used a little over 8lbs of it last year and the year before. Mostly with coated 147 but a couple thougsand MG 124's. It works just fine.

The problem with LEO trade-ins is you don't know who the guy was that had that pistol. For all you know the owner was a firearms instructor and on SWAT and shot 20k rounds a year... Thank fully springs are super cheap. I'd suggest replacing them all for peace of mind. There are a few places, like "Shooters Connection" for example where you can get everything you need. Mag springs, striker springs, trigger return springs, etc. You could even get a few performance parts like a ejector block with a over travel stop or aftermarket guide rod. You could even get a light striker spring to reduce the trigger pull, etc.

The only spring I've every broken is the magazine spring - which I didn't have but I have one now. The only thing I've ever needed to do at a match was tighten my front sight. So that means having a front sight tool and some loc-tite. The box I take to the match is the same I take to the range so I have an extra striker spring, firing pin safety spring, trigger spring, trigger bar, etc. Having many spring cups are good because if you ever drop one, you'll likely never find it again.

3.6 was 1060 for me.

It's been my observation you get the most improvement out of the striker spring. And just reducing it 5# can make a pretty nice difference. You might just want to buy a heavier trigger return spring and light firing pin safety spring and striker spring and try out the combinations to see what you like. You may have issues with the trigger not returning if you run a light firing pin spring and heavy trigger return spring.