GregJ

I like WST, but never cared for how it metered in my LNL. It's a light flake, and sometimes drops inconsistently. I've tried just about every trick I could find. What seems to work the best for consistent drops are: keep the hopper full, move the baffle up so it's about 1/4" from the bottom of the tube, leave the powder in the measure. I still have not tried fixing a fish tank air pump to the powder tube. That is next.

I tried the Powder Cop, did not like it. I now have the RCBS lock out die, and it does it's job nicely. Won't reload without it.

I wound up getting several lbs of 700x, thinking it would be a good powder for practice loads. I tried loading a bunch the other night, and OMG what a PITA. My LNL AP powder drop did NOT like this stuff. The rotor would stick in the down position at almost every other stroke, and had waaaaay too many light loads/squibs (caught by my RCBS lockout die). I too had the baffle in. I will try taking the baffle out and the cheap fish tank pump, and see if this helps any. But so far I am not impressed with this stuff - at all.

There are gall marks on the insert slot where it is binding, so I know this is the issue. Should have included that little tidbit.

I have the Hornady PTX and linkage on my powder measure, set up for 45ACP. When it's adjusted so that the rotor insert just barely tops out, the insert binds on both sides of the router housing insert slot near the top. Looks like the slot wasnt machined correctlly and the edges of the square sholder on the insert are binding near the top. Anyone else run into this? I'm going to clean the housing slot up some tonight and see if that helps.

One Shot is your friend. Tried that, Didnt like the way it dirties up the sizing die. Besides, I also have the case feeder, and didnt want it gumming up the works. Lesser of the evils I guess.

I had similar setback issues with 45ACP, had to sort brass to be used at matches. I tried Hornady and RCBS dies. The U-die fixed my issues, never had to sort brass since, nor had any setback issues. This is with 230gr Zero FMJ. The U-Die does add quite a bit more resistance and you may feel it in your elbow after a few hundred rounds.

I'm in a quandary now. 5.2gr out of my 5" 1911 barely makes major. The published load range for a 230 gr is 4.9 low and a max of 5.2, which I am at now. I will try some at 5.3 and check for pressure, see what they crono at, etc. 6 rounds, 230gr Zero @.1.240, 5.2gr N320, Winchester brass low= 698.4 high 745.3 avg= 725.8 PF= 166.9

This, plus cap of mineral spirits occasionally. I also turn a fan when I pour the contents out of the tumbler into the separator, this blows a lot of the dust away.

I dont think it is either. I got a Powder Funnel last year, and it developed a ring from where the case mouth constantly hits it. I like the Hornady PTX much better, as it slightly enlarges the case mouth in addition to flaring it.

Using mixed headstamp brass, I had a problem with setback using Hornady and RCBS sizing die. I had to sort my brass for matches and practice, with the better brass for matches. Went to an EGW-U die last year, haven't had an issue since, and no more sorting brass!!!

I've tried red, then green. Felt like my 57 yr old eyes picked up the green better. Then I went back to black front sight, and havent changed back. I think there are less distractions for the eye to pick up the front sight with it black rather than a F/O. Of course, YMMV

Seems I made an error on the OAL when I tested the loads above. The OAL was actually 1.22 and not 1.240. I had loaded a bunch of practice rounds and forgot to change the seater back. Loaded a bunch at 5.1g and shot them yesterday, they shot well at a steel match yesterdy, but the chrono is not quite where I wanted. 5.2g is next to load up a bunch and try. After I settle in on the 5.2, I will re-bench at 25yds to make sure the POI hasnt changed. 5.1g Zero 230 @ 1.240: low=717.8 hi=746.5 6 shot avg=730.1 pf=167.9 (cutting it tooooo close)

It was just on gunbot, but gone now.

Kelly, I feel your pain, and have been doing the exact same thing. You put a very good list together, that I will try and use as well. Working on all these things might be too optimistic - the brain just doesnt work that way. You might try to pick one or two areas to focus on, then progress from there. I know my footwork and movement from array to array with more urgency are two areas I need a big improvement on. See ya at the next match. Greg

Got some more chrono results. All Winchester brass, using Lee U sizing die, 230gr Zero @ 1.240. 6 rounds each string. 5.0g: low=685.7 hi=708.9 avg=701.6 pf=161.3 5.1g: low=713.9 hi=740.0 avg=725.8 pf=166.9 5.2g: low=701.2* hi=755.3 avg=743.3 pf=170.9 *On this string, I threw out the low, and the 5 shot avg=751.6 pf=172.8 I like to stay around 740/170pf, so I may load a few hundred up @ 5.2 and test them.

As a starting point, I loaded up a few at 4.6gr (230gr Zero @ 1.240, Winchester brass), 640 fps avg / 147 pf. Very smoky, probably because the load was so weak. Going to test some at 5.0 gr tonight.

Curious what others are loading N320 for Major PF. I scored a few lbs and will starting loading some match ammo to save my W231 and WST until the "crisis" subsides somewhat. Gun is 5" 1911, 230gr Zero bullets. I've seen 4.6 to 4.8gr IIRC. Start is supposed to be 4.9 and max is 5.2. Pretty narrow range. Of couse I will chrono, just wanted to get a good starting point. TIA

Had a great time at the match. Thanks to Scott Cook and all the volunteers setting it up.

This is exactly what I did with mine. Has worked quite well.

If you look in the settings, I think you can only set up the beep alerts for ammo price levels.

Not sure if this helps any, but TTAG did a test on it. http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2014/05/foghorn/gun-review-sig-sauer-p320/

Yep, just got 8#. Never tried it before. My go-to is W231, this should be a good replacement for the time being.

I'm 57 and have work progressives for several years. The single best thing I've done to help my shooting is to get a pair of glasses just for shooting - the left lens is single Rx for distance, the right lens is singe Rx for near (point of focus is where the front sight is). This takes a little getting used to, but it's the only way I've found to be able to get the front sight in focus. As of late, I've found putting a strip of scotch tape over the left lens has helped my accuracy quite a bit. It makes focusing the right eye on the front sight much easier. Of course, YMMV

RDA, I think it was your post that convinced me to remove the original tube and just insert the filler tubes into the black adapter. I owe you an adult beverage.