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GregJ

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Everything posted by GregJ

  1. Just got a G2, light years ahead of my CED M2. App is awesome. Love the G2.
  2. Finally got to chrono some rounds today with my G2. I love this thing!!! Super simple, quick to set up, the app works wonderfully. You can set up templates in it, open a template, chrono a load, save that as a group, then you can text or email that group. I really like being able to email the data (also sends it via CSV file), so I can print it off and put it in my binder. No more hand scribbled notes. You can also input the bullet weight, and it will calculate the PF. This thing is light years ahead of my CED M2. Below is a load I was testing (tested in 3 guns, S2, 75, and MPX). Created: 09/10/19 04:41 PMDescription: CZ Shadow 2 - Sport PistolNotes 1: 4.0 gr SP, BBI 125gr @ 1.100, Fed SPPNotes 2:Distance to Chrono(FT): 10.00Ballistic Coefficient: 1.000Bullet Weight(gr): 125.00Temp: 68 °FBP: 1023.00 inHgAltitude: 0.00# FPS FT-LBS PF10 1074 320.21 134.25 9 1083 325.60 135.38 8 1083 325.60 135.38 7 1081 324.40 135.12 6 1086 327.40 135.75 5 1082 325.00 135.25 4 1086 327.40 135.75 3 1079 323.20 134.88 2 1061 312.50 132.62 1 1080 323.80 135.00 Average: 1079.5 FPSSD: 7.4 FPSMin: 1061 FPSMax: 1086 FPSSpread: 25 FPSShot/sec: 0.2True MV: 1080 FPSGroup Size (in): 0.00 Attached is a screen shot.
  3. I just got a Caldwell G2, so far I have been very happy with it. My CED M2 had become totally unreliable.
  4. Plus, if you get a bullet jammed in it, you can simply drop the insert without having to re-adjust everything. If you were changing bullets a lot, then a mic seating die might be worth it. I have a Redding comp die, it lives in the drawer. The Dillon die just works. YMMV
  5. Yes. I only swage when loading, no issues swaging all brass on my AB driven 1050. I use a primer probe during processing to detect pull backs, ringers, etc. Just make sure you are not over-swagging, will eventually break the rod. Take a case, cut it in half, then cut a V section out of the bottom. This allow you to see and adjust the swage rod without having the expansion on the backer rod interferring with what you are seeing and feeling. I started using a Lyman M die instead of the backer rod, l like the results better. Or get these. https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/ammobrass-swage-setter
  6. Should be arriving today, looking forward to chronoing new loads with it. Already have the app on my phone. I got fed up with my CED M2, with the IR sun screens. I've had it for several years, last few years it became totally unreliable with E0 and E1 errors. Some time ago I sent it back to CED, of course they found nothing wrong. Even got a new sensor recently, and swapped it around, still get errors. Tried a paper target in front as a blast shield (yeah, for 9 minor ) , change distances, etc, etc, etc. Some times it wont even store a string. Some times it works great for a string, or part of a string, other times it acts up from the get-go. Some times I get E0/E1 error with the velocity, other times just the error. Yes new battery, several times. I am so done with it. Rant off - sorry. Will post feedback once I get some time on it.
  7. Yes, it a Lee die reworked by EGW to make it undersize, from what I recall. Lee - EGW, same thing when referencing it as undersize die. It should say somewhere in the instructions, or maybe a stamp on it, that it is a U die. I assume you mean what my setup is for processing. Below is how my processing head is set up. #2 - Lee Universal Decapper die with Berdan primer sensor #3 - The Judge die with sensor #6 - Dillon sizing die minus decap pin. #7 - EGW-U die I use the standard Dillon sizing die just to reduce the amount of stress on the EGW-U die. Probably an insignificant amount, and probably unnecessary, but it works for me. And yes I lube my brass when I process it.
  8. My first DPP held for about a year and a half, probably 15-20K. Then it started acting up, sent it in, found a refurb DPP for a great price on Natchez, and ever since seems like they never went more that 5K before I had to send it back in. I think every time it was due to the center contact slipping because of the cheap azz way they secure it with tape - I would expect better from a company like Leupold. One is an AE and the other an AD, IIRC.
  9. Mark/Immortobot has videos for how to adjust both. To me, the DBOS is easier to get set up than the SCCD. Join the Ammobot Facebook page, lots of great support there.
  10. I would definately get the DBOS first. This sensor detects and stops the press (when properly adjusted) when a bullet topples, is upside down, or missing. Saves components and keeps from creating a mess. I would also strongly suggest process the brass first and add The Judge die in that process. These two, and of course the Berdan sensor, are IMHO must haves. Edit: If/when you process, definately add the primer pocket probe. It will detect pull backs, ringers, etc. Another must.
  11. Hell yes they are useful!! Probably best additions to the press.
  12. Depends on if you married to a particular optic. IOW, did you have your slide milled for a DPP? Or is it a plate system like CZC's RDS ? In my case, I had 2 DPPs that I rotated on my CZ S2 with CZC RDS plate cut. I finally got fed up with the DPP when it failed halfway thru first day of a 2 day course with Brandon Walker. I have since been running an SRO. With slide mounted optics, it isnt a matter of if, but when one fails.
  13. So far my SRO has held up better than my DPP. :knocksonwood:
  14. Just fill out the support form on their web page, follow the directions, and put a printed copy in the box with the optic. Then wait .....
  15. I did almost the exact same thing a couple of years ago, have had maybe one or two jams where they drop since then.
  16. When I first got my 1050 and AB, I tried to load brass that had not been processed first, just cleaned, as I had never processed brass before (decap, etc). I had a LOT of issues getting my setup to run, mostly pulled back primers - just one can really muck up the works, and has the potential of causing a primer stack ignition if the primer shuttle is not kept clean. At the guidance of a few great resources here, I started processing all my (pistol) brass. This makes the loading process SOOOOOO much smoother, because you are virtually guaranteed of not having any primer pull back issues, wrong cases, etc, etc. etc. I have a separate tool head to process brass. The first die is a universal decapper with the Berdan primer sensor (must have sensor), second die is The Judge die (this is also a must in my book, as it not only separates 38S and SC from 9, but also will alert if rubber junk is inside case, as well as other issues). Last two dies are a Dillon size die minus the primer pin, and an EGW-U die. I am a big fan and believer in the EGW-U die. Been using it for 45 and 9 for years and have never had a setback issue since, as I use mixed range brass. Another side benefit or two of processing first, processing brass can be really dirty due to the old primer dust, etc. When switching over from loading to processing, and vice versa, since I basically have to strip the press down, it is a great time to thoroughly clean and grease things, and inspect for worn items or replace normal wear things like the primer magazine tube tip. Also, suggest you get a bunch of Lee universal decap pins, keep all the broken ones, and send a bunch in to Lee as they will replace them. I used the SD pins, but always go back to the Lee pins. Let me know if you have any other questions, am happy to help. The AB Facebook page is also great support, everyone there is very helpful.
  17. 1. make sure the nut on the top of the primer magazine tube is barely finger tight. It should just begin to touch the tube. 2. empty the primer magazine tube, and check the blue tip at the bottom of the primer mag tube. Replace it anyway. These are a disposable commodity.
  18. Absolutely get the DBOS. The bullet orientation is awesome! Keeps from wasting powder or components if a bullet topples off. The SSCD is great as well. Love them. Also suggest processing your ammo prior to loading it. If you do, really need to add The Judge die to the processing head. It is worth it's weight in gold.
  19. To add, OP's question why some rounds do not pass the EGW gauge but do pass a plunk test. Again, the EGW tolerances are pretty tight, and your barrell may or may not be reamed as close to specs as the EGW is. Yes, your barrel is the best test to make sure, but you cannot plunk test every round you load. If a finished round sticks in the EGW but not in your barrel, shorten the OAL a little till it drops freely out of the EGW. The profile of the bullet can make a huge difference, and is probably the point of interference.
  20. I'm convinced. Ordered a 4# jug to test, will order more if I like it. Will keep the W231 for a rainy day.
  21. I have a metric butt- load of WST on hand (used to shoot SS), but I was trying to avoid its temp sensitivity.
  22. Just got a new batch of 125gr BBI as I finished up all my Zero 124gr RN. My load for these was 4.4gr W231, mixed brass, Fiocci primer, 1.100, and about 134PF out of a CZ S2 in CO. I also need more powder, so I thought if I was going to switch, now would be a good time. Read a lot of good things about SP, but nothing that indicates if it would be a better powder than W231 (cleaner, softer, etc). W231 is a great, versatile powder, and I also use it when I occasionally load 45ACP/SS as well. The BBI 125s OAL plunk tests to about 1.12 OAL in my S2 and 75 barrels. To get them to not stick in my EGW gauge, I need an OAL of about 1.095, so I will begin my load testing with this.
  23. It is easy to put the Shockbottle gauge up against a light to see high primers, if you have a hard time feeling them by running your finger over them. Also very each to check for missing, sideways, or upside-down primers. Like others, my EGW gauge is tight. When I first set my press up for 9mm, I used my barrels for plunk test, to establish the preferred baseline. When running my press (AB driven 1050) I will periodically check the rounds with the EGW gauge. Makes sure crimp, etc is still good. Before a match, i will use the Shockbottle to gauge all ammo. Again good way to spot primer issues, or cases that might be a smidge long, etc.
  24. Not a matter of if a dot will break, but when. Between my two DPPs, they have been back 4 times. Seeing now how long the SRO will last.
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