GregJ

That's what I've seen. Various Kimbers, Springfields and A LOT of Spartans. That's what I had suspected, but every try to find a Kimber shooting shirt?????

I dont know if this will help or not, but a few years ago I sold my XDm to buy a CZ SA Target. I was shooting mostly IDPA at the time, and I was lusting for the Target. I really didnt like how the XDm fit in my hand. Hard to explain, but it was rather bland feeling. The CZ fits like a glove, and I love it. Unfortunately, there really isnt a place in USPSA for my Target, so I've been shooting SS with my Kimber.

Yes, it's a press fit. I've found grabbing it with pliers and twisting slightly while pulling down works best for me.

Order from Hornady? http://www.hornady.com/store/Decapping-Pins/

So your are right eye dominant? And the right Rx was for the perfect vision on the front sight? Left Rx for target? I'm asking because I am very long sighted now, and perhaps losing some distance vision too. I was going to make an appt at eye doc to get some shooting glasses and your input is very interesting. How did you explain it to doc when you had them made? Are they standard glasses or wrap around 'shooting glasses'? Thanks for the help. Molly Molly, Yes, right handed, right eye dominant. I explained the my doc I wanted a set of shooting glasses, the problem in not being able to focus on the front sight, and would a pair of glasses like this work. She was very receptive to the idea, and worked with me to get the glasses right. The right Rx was about 1.5" past the tip of my right index finger when in an isocolese free-style stance. This put the front sight in focus for my right eye. Left Rx was normal distance. Both single vision. Regular glasses with impact resistant lenses. I've noticed with these glasses, though they have helped my shooting tremendously, I wasnt getting a good of a sight picture as I thought I should (to be able to call my shots, etc) , so I tried the scotch tape on the left lense. This made HUGE difference. The older you get the harder it is for your eyes to focus on different things with both of them open, like the front sight. Good luck.

Any idea where I can get them? Kimber only sells regular t-shirts. I'd like to get shooting shirts for my son and I. I've googled and googled but have come up dry. TIA

Wished they had this back in the day when I raced pro-am MX. It's a mix of enduro, hare-scrambles, and supercross, all mixed up. I'd love to be able to run a lap, just to see how much fun it would be. Why is it like USPSA? Cause there's usually more than one line, or way to run a stage.

The other piece is a shim that comes with the factory cr speed pouch setup, and is meant to hold or wedge the pouch in place so it doesn't move, and does not come the 1911 cr speed spacer kits that I sell. the kits that I sell come with 5 angled spacers, and 5 additional smaller spacers. Yes, sorry I should have been more specific in that the small shim came with the original CR Speed package of spacers and not yours. Sorry for any confusion.

Thanks guys, I thought I had it right, just wanted to verify. The small spacer in the second pic, I assume that goes on top or below the belt wedged between the belt and the pouch to lock it down? Sean, great product, thanks!

Thanks, I think I've got it. I'll post a pic tonight, just to make sure.

I did. Sorry I didnt make that clearer. I just want to make sure I've got the Power Factor spacers in right. (Been a long day.)

Just got my CR Speed Versa mag pouches and the 1911 spacers from Power Factor. It seems straightforward enough, but I just want to make sure, it seems the adapter and the thin spacer are both used. I tried with just the adapter, seemed pretty obvious the spacer would be needed as well. The spacer has a textured surface on one side and a smooth on the other. Does it matter which side goes where? Also, in the mag pouch spacer kit was a small thin spacer, where does this go? A pic would be great. TIA EDIT: to clarify spaces from Power Factor.

Been there, done that. Suxs

I put a small strip vertically on my left lense, with enough room at the top and bottom to still see. Maybe this will help with your reloads.

As did I!!! To me, it's hard looking at a one dimentional diagram and say what's the best way of running it. But to me (also SS shooter) I would try and run it like this: - move to A, engage T1,2,3,4 - reload while moving to B, or maybe a little closer to the barrels so all the remaining targets are seen from one spot-if possible. - engage T9,10,7,8 - reload - engage T5,6

You're right, they dont. The back of them do extent more than the front, due to their slope. I've left the DP basepads on, but have gone back to the S&A magwell for a match this weekend. Quiet possible that is what I'm doing. I plan on leaving the S&A on for the remainder of the season, then do a lot of reload practice over the winter with the Ice magwell. Hopefully that will get me straightened out.

Very good points, Steve. I will indeed fiddle with them. Once again, thanks and

Also check the headstamps of your brass, assuming you're reloading with range pickup. Some are very thin walled, therefore there is less neck tension. R-P brass is one that I've run into like this. Try some reloads with CCI, PMC, or Blazer brass and see if the same amount of setback occurs (you'll still bet setback, but should be a lot less).

@ Shadowrider - Yes, I have powder baffle in it. When I picked up the LNL used, it had the standard rifle rotor and insert in it, and it drove me crazy trying to get consistent drops - it was horrific! Not about to go down that road again. @ 98sr20ve - Very good points, I think you are right about keeping the handle down at times. WST is "fluffier" than other powders I've used, and not had this happen before, but it all makes sense. Thanks all.

Havent noticed any one mag in particular, but good tip. My mags are numbered, and I will start noting during a match which one it happens with. Actually, I'm running the gap version. I'll update my OP to clarify. As far as I can tell, I dont see any interferences.

Hey Rusty, welcome! I think my son and I have squadded with you at SP a time or two. We were at N. Mountain yesterday in the AM session. See you at SP on saturday.

First off, I'm a frustrated C shooter, and I know it, but I'm working hard on getting to the next step. A couple of months ago I put on a gap version DP Ice magewell on my Kimber GM II, along with DP's basepads on my ETM mags. I practice reloads, drawing, etc, at least 3 nights a week, but invariable I will have one or two instances during a match where I will not insert the mag with enough authority to seat it well enough, forcing a tap & rack. I do try and make sure I properly index the mag with my finger, but I must be having a brain lock sometime after the buzzer goes. I never had this problem with the S&A magwell I had on it previously, but I know it's me. In addition to practice, practice, practice, any other tips that have helped you get past this would be appreciated.

Yeah, that's what I was suspecting. Thanks for the suggestion, but I really dont want to remove the FPB, as I also use this in local IDPA matches. I have to reverify the rules, but I dont thing removing it (CDP) is allowed. I didnt have any issues with light strike yesterday at a local match, so I probably need to just work on getting a better grip.

Handle-No, leaving it up. Shell Plate-I've done both, run it empty, and stopped in middle of a batch, with same results. Have you chrono'd any of the light vs heavy loads? If you're not getting unacceptable velocity dispersion, you may not have a serious problem - especially if accuracy is acceptable. Jack No I have not chroned loads that I specifically knew were a little heavy. I do know my 4.8gr load and 200gr Precision bullets out of my 5" Kimber recently chronoed a little over 166PF. So another .2gr probably is not enough to worry too much about.

I started to notice if I get my grip a little too high on my Kimber Gold Match II, the grip safety doesnt get depressed quite enough and I wind up with light primer strikes. I had a light strike during a recent IDPA postal match, may have been due to my grip. I've tested and verified this with the pencil test. This is my SS and my CDP gun, so besides making sure my grip is not too hight, what other adjustments can be done to the gun? Only mods I've made (besdes sights) include replacing the ambi safety for a WC Bullet Proof wide thumb safety and a DP Ice magwell.