GregJ

I just put the Hornady bullet feeder on my LNL, so now it's an ammo plant. I've had to make some tweaks on the case feeder, but it now runs 100% with no jams. Currently have a small issue with occasional bullet tipping, that I am trying to sort through. If you want a video of it spitting out 100 rounds, I can do that tonight.

It taps most of them in and they stay put during rotation. There is that 1 or so in 20 that it doesn't. I wonder if the brass that it doesnt tap them into well enough, has a slightly thicker wall. May check more tonight. Having the input spring hose full of bullets doesnt help tap the occasional errant bullet in either. I played with the bell, and think it is at a sweet spot now that works most of the time. More bell causes more bullets to lean and eventually wobble out of place. I have adjusted the shell plate ball bearings up slightly to minimize the shell abruptness when they seat in the detents - this seems to help some. I also measured the gap between the shell and shell plate. If memory serves it wasnt too bad. Will have to check again tonight, but I didnt think shims would be a big help since the gap wasnt too bad.

I use the Hornady PTX that came with the bullet feeder die. It has the shoulder. Probably 1 in 10 will tip to some degree, usually to the point where it falls horizontal just before meeting the seat/crimp die - which typically ends up in a ruined case. I've seen that before, will re-read, tks.

Ok, where do I find the Mr BulleFeeder PTX for a Hornady LNL? My Google Fu is coming up empty.

I believe they are. Thanks for the info. Will have to order the magwell when its avail.

I've had a CZ 75 SA Target for several years now. I used it in IDPA ESP for a while, before getting into USPSA. Since I can't shoot it in Production, I would like to set it up for Limited Minor as it is 9mm. Need suggestions on what to do to it, like magwell (if possible), etc. TIA

NO lead dust. Quicker, Brass is cleaner. I can do 3x times the brass wet versus dry. Using the FART is the TITS. This, and no media on the floor/bench area, or media residue left in the brass which winds up in the case loader, brass storage containers, etc.

Also look at Gravitas Tactical. They build a solid 1911. They are also coming out with a competition model this is kickin. http://gravitastactical.com/1911-single-stack/

Thanks! Got some on order.

Seems like I recall seeing a post somewhere that the Hornady bullet feeder should not be kept loaded, or the collet might get sprong. Do you keep bullets in your Hornady bullet feeder die when done reloading for the evening/day/week/month? Or empty it?

Thanks. Just for grins I polished the PTX and that greatly reduced the friction/sticking, and seemed to reduce the brass flaking too.

Another question (and it isn't grease related ) : Since using the Hornady PTX, I've noticed a lot of brass dust/particles on the shell plate. Never had this with the powder funnel. I also use the EGW-U die (due to mixed headstamp brass). I dont lube the inside of the cases, but I do spray the cases exterior with Hornady case lube before dumping them into the hopper. Anyone else notice this?

Drying is very important. I thought my fan was goid enough, but it wasnt. I had problems with light loads and squibs due to moisture left in case. Got the FA dryer and no more issues.

Great tips, thanks!! So far, I have adjusted the ball detents on the shell plate back in a little, regreased, fine tuned the taper some, and probably more important adjusted the bullet feed die again. Seems much better.

Arent they only made for Dillon? I think the plate snapping into position is contributing to this.

Trying to set my LNL AP up for a Hornady bullet feeder, reloading 45ACP Zero 230gr projectiles. I have the Hornady bullet feeder, with the Hornday PTX expander in the powder drop. Problem is the projectiles tipping from station 4 to station 5, unless I go reaaaaal slooooow. Which defeats the purpose of having the bullet feeder. I have seen a few posts on this, but no resolutions. Anyone come up with one?

Like so many others, my LNL case feeder occasionally jams at where the case drops off the shell plate. It gets jammed between the shell plate and side of the chute opening. I've tried adjusting the metal tab 9 ways from sunday, with the same results. Tonight I decided to take a closer look at the cause. The first pic below is what it looks like while running the press. The second pic is what the jam looks like from above. Occasionally a case will ride along behind the upright case, and when it gets ready to drop, the case behind it allows it to just fall enough to get jammed up. To fix this, I cut a piece from a soda can, using clamps temporarily to make sure the concept works for the long term. So far, I ran about 1500 pieces of 45ACP through it with NO jams. This little mod seems to do several things: allow the cases to sit upright sooner, dislodge cases that ride up on their mouth, and prevent the jams. I know it looks a little hokey with the paper clips, but I just wanted to prove the concept before making it purdy. After I've run this for a while to make sure it works, I'll make one out of a little stronger alum flashing, and a little nicer. Here's a little video of it http://youtu.be/zaBFHUhmh7M in action. Hope this helps someone.

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Iron Outlaw April 8th-10th 2016 · Over $80,000* in cash payout possible · COMPETITORS DON’T RESET STEEL · 9 Stages of falling steel · 3 Divisions (Open, Irons, and Shotgun) · Better than 1 in 10 chance of winning $250 or more Fredericksburg , Virginia *Based on sold out match and all contingencies being awarded http://ironoutlawsteelmatch.com/ on Facebook..... https://www.facebook.com/ironoutlawsteelmatch/

I had a brilliant idea. I basically wrapped it in heavy duty 50gal platic liner bag. I put two small metal strips on the top of the screens to allow the plastic drape in front and back a little. Seems to work quite nicely so far. The IR screens work regardless of sun, and the wrap does the same as a box, and prevents any outside light/shading interference. Redneck engineering at it's best, if I do say so myself.

I meant to include it isnt a pawl timing issue. And yes, I keep the shell plate detent balls clean and greased. The pic above is with the plate snapped into the detents. I have to push the plate slightly clock-wise out of the detents to get the primer to line up 100%. It really seems like the detents on the sub-plate are off. I will be ordering a new sub-plate today.

Been noticing several primers hard to seat, get a few messed up, etc. Looks like the bearings on the shell plate and the detents on the sub-plate are not in alignment. I tried two other shell plates (9mm and 223) and they look the same. I called Hornady, and their only suggestion was to make sure the bearing cap in the shell plate was flush with the bottom of the plate to eliminate any play. I think I need a new sub-plate. I tried to take a good pic that showed how the edges of the shell holder do not line up with the primer shuttle. Any else notice this in their LNL?

Anyone build a temporary collapsible chrono box? I would like to build one that I can use with my IR screens any time outside when I need to chrono my loads. I would like collapsible box so it would take up less room when stored.

I ran 200gr SWC in my Kimber Gold Match for a couple of years. Had a heck of a time getting them to feed reliably. Polishing and tuning the extractor helped, but the biggest thing was getting the crimp right (yeah, I know, no "real" crimp), and especially removing the sharp edge/point from machining the throat. Kimber barrels have a sharp point, and it was frequently catching and causing a stoppage.

After a lot of error, this seems to be working so far: Tumbler- Frankford Arsenal Wet Tumbler Soap- 1 sec squirt of Dawn, 1 tsp LemiShine, 1 capful of TurtleWax Wash n Wax Water - HOT 5lbs of FA SS pins Water - fill to neck of tumbler Brass - Fill a quart size jar of 45ACP. This puts the weight of the drum right at 29lbs. I run the tumbler for 1.5 hour. Drain dirty water out, run water hose in tumbler to rinse brass and get dirty water out. Dump contents in RCBS media tumbler. Empty brass onto towel, take FA transfer magnet over brass to pick up any loose pins. Roll brass in towel like a bowling ball. Put brass in FA Dehydrator on max temp for 2 hrs. Brass comes out dry and looking like new.