GregJ

This is what I did to mine. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191183&p=2115072 I did find the original tube that came with the VP easily separates from the black adapter, and when the filler tube is inserted into the black adapter there enough resistance to keep it secure. This works quite nicely.

The Hornady primer tubes (my only reference) are 14 1/4" OAL not including the plastic tip. The pin is 11/16" from the end. With 100 CCI LP primers, they take up 11 14/16" of the tube (from the pin), leaving 1 11/16" of empty tube at the top. Assuming the same distance from the tube end to the pin, the tube with 100 LP primers would be about 12 5/8" long, leaving the primers even with the end of the tube. I want more empty tube at the end, so when I make the next batch, they will be 14" OAL.

Interesting. I was hesitant on sacrificing the standard V/P tube in case things didnt work. Will have to look at it again. I did find that the V/P tube and adapter will separate pretty easily. I like using the spacer much better than the tape. Thanks for the idea.

Interesting. I was hesitant on sacrificing the standard V/P tube in case things didnt work. Will have to look at it again.

I wanted to come up with extra primer tubes for my V/P, that I could load up and have ready and waiting for me. After research here and other boards, here are the dimension of the Hornady primer tubes. McMaster-Carr have these alum pipes in 3' and 6' lengths. Small Primer tube = .183 ID x 5/16" OD Part #89965K18 (New p/n 89965K461) Large Primer tube = .215 ID x 5/16" OD Part #89965K472 (New p/n 89965K472) Here is a pic of 4 tubes I made from the two 3' pipes I ordered from McMaster-Carr. I had a 5th tube laying around, so I made a stand out of a piece of oak for 5 tubes. If anyone is interested in doing this, make sure you use the dimensions of the Hornady primer tubes. The black tape around the top is electric tape which acts as a spacer in the V/P. The tubes work perfectly in the V/P !!! Just make sure the top of the tube fits into the recess on the primer tray, and you're good to go. In fact, the primers seem to feed better now than with the V/P tube with the black adapter.

Yeah they are. If we're ever at a match together, you're welcome to take mine for a test drive.

Gotta love google. http://black-t.com/technical-information/

The finish is Cerakote. However, GT has since switched to W.E. Birdsong Black-T, which completely eliminates the possibility of corrosion. Even if the black finish shows wear through to what appears to be white metal, the gun will still be protected. So much so, if it ever did rust, which it wont, they will take care of it at no charge, that's how confident they are in the finish. Additionally, they will be refinishing mine (if I ever stop shooting it long enough to let them have it) at no cost, because they want me to have what they feel is a better finish even though they changed after I purchased it.

I'm far from being a 1911 guru, but agree with Oak Hill, in that they are purpose built and practical, and they work - period. I have yet to have a malfunction that wasn't operator induced (e.g. not completely seating mag on reload). I can not say the same for my Kimber Gold Match. As I stated earlier, the intent from GT was to build a duty level firearm, that anyone carrying one would have confidence in. From my experience, and others I've seen that are shooting them, I think they've hit the mark pretty well.

I've not owned a Les, or an STI, but I have owned several Kimbers. I know the personal attention that goes into each one of these, and could easily put them at the same level of a Wilson or Nighthawk. These are built as duty level guns, that I compete with. The list of all the components are on their web page. Anyway, it works quite nicely for me and many others that have bought them.

Thought I would post a few pics to show off my GTP 1911. I got it early last season, and it has been absolutely flawless all last year. I can honestly say it has not hiccupped once on any of my reloads. These guys build great guns, and are in the Northern Va area. This thing has all the top shelf goodies. If you are in the area, and are interested, I strongly recommend you check them out. www.gravitastactical.com

I may have found the issue. Battery was too low to upload the data to the laptop. I'll try again with the new battery and see if that was the issue.

I thought I would test some rounds tonight, 5.2gr W231, with the 230 zero @ 1.24 OAL. Gun is 1911 5" (Gravitas Tactical). Rounds loaded on a LNL. The brass is all mixed headstamp. Sizing die is EGW-U. Crimp is .470. I shot 3, 3 shot strings. CED chrono with the IR sky screen. Temp 40* clear/calm. str1: 716.7, 766.2, 750.7 PF 171.2 str2: 649.1, 738.4, 746.7 PF 167.0 str3: 714.1, 720.4, 742.5 PF 166.9 Only string 3 made major. I just grabbed 9 rounds from the bucket, none were cartridge gauged, but cycled in the gun fine. The gun is pretty dirty, but that shouldnt have an effect on the first round of all 3 strings being lower than the rest. The only rest between strings was the time it took to save the string on the chrono. I check the powder drop fairly frequently, and it's always spot on 5.2gr. I usually use WSF, but the W231 just seems to drop more consistently, and I dont think it's as temp sensitive. So I have been thinking of switching to it. Suggestions for the inconsistent velocities?

This is how my LNL is set up for 230gr Zero. #1: EGW-U sizing/decaping die #2: Hornady powder drop with Hornady powder through expander. #3: RCBS lock out die #4: Hornady bullet seater #5: RCBS crimp I use the EGW-U die because it allows me to use any brass and get very good neck tension so I dont get bullet setback. I seperated the seating and crimping so that I could get exactly the crimp I wanted. I was shooting Bayou 200gr SWC at the time. Now that I shoot Zeros, I will be combinined when I finally go to a bullet feeder.

I've found that for generic bullets, like lead RN, it's sometimes better to look to the powder mfgr's load recommendations. Bottom line, you will eventually need a chrony, or borrow one. I remember it can be very confusing starting out. http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/index.aspx

Surprised you never had issued with the standard insert. I did initially, didn't even know there was a pistol insert/rotor available/recommended. I had a miserable time getting consistent drops (with W231 at the time I think) using the standard rotor. Once I switched, life was good. No static that I am aware of, at least not that I can tell. Definitely no oil. I don't lube the rotor or the PTX, so no oil contamination buildup to worry about. I just broke it down last night to clean it up getting ready to work on W231 loads, no major buildup anyway to speak of.

My go-to manual is consistently the Sierra manual. I have Hornady, Lyman, Speer, etc. Keep going back to the Sierra.

This, or run a fan pointing outside. The benefit to the fan is it will blow away the dust from the media as you're pouring out of the tumbler into whatever you use to separate the brass/media. This will also keep the media cleaner.

Yeah, I've read that a lot. I've had my LNL for about 3-4 yrs now I guess. WST is a light flake powder, and it really seems to matter how it settles as to whether a charge is a little heavy or light. By heavy, I've seen it > .6gr. I've tried everything (tapping rotor, run multiple cases through by hand and by the press, powder baffle, etc). If I stop during reloading (e.g. SWAMBO needs me upstairs) and I leave the ram down (meaning the insert is pointed up, allowing powder being packed into it), I can guarantee the drop will be heavy. Same for when I have to pause to load primers. Happens less when I leave the ram up/insert pointed down. The standard insert is for rifles, and is for drops 5+ gr and above. The pistol insert is the smaller one, and is needed for <5gr drops. The pistol insert is what I have been using since almost day one. Ball powders like W231 meter much more consistently.

I had been running 4.4gr WST with 230gr Zeros @ 1.240 OAL. At a sectional match this spring it chronoed at 169 in my 5" 1911. I checked it again before a state match, and the same load chronoed at 154! ugh Loaded a batch at 4.7gr for the match, chroned at around 175. 4.6 would have been about right. I've run WST for a couple of years now. I dont like how the drops are inconsistent in my LNL. I'm testing loads for W231 and may go back to it.

I have some 69 gr SMK and 75gr Hornadys, I need to do some more testing with these. Thanks!!

Thanks guys, good info. sierra77mk, great link, that one will be printed and go into the binder. Thanks again

I'm trying to work up a load for my AR. It's a RRA with a Predator Pursuit upper. I recently had it rebarreled with a Krieger 1:7.7 20" SS bull barrel. It really like Federal Gold Match 77gr and can shoot around 1/2 MOA @ 100yds if I do my part. I've tried TAC, Varget, and RE15 with the 77gr, but according to Sierra's load data, TAC and AA 2520 are the only powders that get close to the velocity of the FGM (2720 fps). My results with 23.7gr of TAC and OAL of 2.250 (measured at ogive with comparator) have been ok, but not stellar. Brass and bullets were weighed and sorted, all LC headstamp, CCI 400 primers. I did notice from my last outing cratered primers. Need to investigate into this some more, may try some CCI 450. Anyway, looking for advice on accurate load for 100yd target work with this setup.

I've done this before with rifle brass, not sure why I didnt think of doing this before - guess I didnt want to take a chance on gumming up my new case feeder. Anyway, loaded about 100 rnds last night using the bag and One-Shot, definately seems to help. Thanks all !

No, I havent tried standing yet. I will give that a try tonight. I have the Hornady One-shot, will give that another try tonight as well. (Sucks getting old. ) Thanks