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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

slavex

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Everything posted by slavex

  1. I'd say this looks pretty normal as far as variations in velocity and the SD. I've hand weighed loads for pistol and ended with larger spreads. It can be anything from different case volume, even when you use the same brand cases, to different thicknesses of jacket or hardness of lead etc. Pistol ammo and rifle ammo are two totally different beasts in my opinion, and pistol seems to always have more variation, unless you want to use benchrest rifle practices with pistol ammo.
  2. Until recently all my brass was outside and inside pickup stuff, so gravel and other debris could be in the cases. Nothing ruins the flow of loading like running into a rock in your case, and on the 1050 MK7 that could be disastrous if you forget to check for a double charge when you clear the jam. So I started processing brass, as it can do that while I'm working on guns or what not. A couple hours of 'smithing and I've got brass for a month or so. Then when it comes time to load, I've washed that brass and dried it after processing (to get the lube off and clean it in general), this makes the whole process worry free. Now having the Revo, while I'm loading the other Mk7 is processing brass for me, so I get twice as much done at the same time. I'm strongly thinking about ordering a Revo processor (stripped Revo just for processing) or getting an Evolution and throw it on the Mk7 automation table and sell the 1050 currently sitting there. not sure what I'll do.
  3. I ran a ton of it on my 1050 Mk7 before I started processing it first. I don't see why it would be any different on the Evo or Revo.
  4. yes, the machine is essentially the same at the core. Think of it as a big set of technic lego bricks. There are a few differences in the mechanism of the Revo compared to the Evo, but that is directly to do with the way the motor attaches.
  5. I've been using an 11lb hammer spring for years, along with the super light firing pin spring from CZUB, zero issues with CCI unless I don't seat them deep enough. If I am loading Federals on my machines I have to back the punch off slightly, and if I forget to screw it back in for the CCIs I run into the odd light strike. I do not use an extended firing pin, I think they are a waste of money.
  6. yeah baby! nicely done! Your gun will thank you.
  7. some video of the Revo running tonight
  8. There are videos available in the Support Forums for Mk7 owners along with the manuals for the machines. I would expect as more of us get the machines, more info will get out, as noted they are focusing on filling orders right now. Did I mention I love my Revo?
  9. yup, I am a big believer in using the recoil buffers from CZ
  10. I agree that manuals should be freely available, but understand that during this period of transitioning from presses not available to people getting them, they wanted to keep things private for the first bit.
  11. on the Revo the priming really is as easy as it looks, turn on the primer vibe and start up the machine. I primed 100 cases last night to test it out, and not a single issue (I know, only 100). I love just dumping in the primers and forgetting about them. I'm not sure where I will put the sizing die. I'm going to be running a Mighty Armory decap die in the first spot, even though my brass is all processed. Better safe than sorry. A stripped sizing die above the swage or maybe just a regular hold down die and then the sizing die above the primer station? so many choices. I do love having the flaring die right before the incredible powder measure.
  12. Got my Revolution today, holy crap is it ever a nice machine. So far I've set the decapping die up, case flare, powder measure and bullet drop. I have to finish a run on my 1050 before I swap out the seat and crimp dies to the Revo, going to bed now after simply watching the machine run for a few hours.
  13. Disagree with the car door analogy. I've been shooting these guns for more than 10 years, with more than a million rounds down range through them. I've yet to see any wear and tear pop up that is a result of my slamming mags in to get the slide to auto forward, which is what I do. Even though I don't trust that it will auto forward, and have a back up plan, it does 99.999999% of the time. And it's really not even necessary to slam the mags in, though I do, to make sure they seat, you just need to do it forcefully enough to bounce the slide. The mags should be stopped by the basepad from over insertion and that prevents the mag catch or the notch from getting beat up.
  14. that is slightly mangled I'd clean that up for sure
  15. slavex

    Shadow2 magazines??

    MecGar mags are the same as what ships with the 2, either the 17s with +2 pads or 17s, or in places like Canada, 10 round. Factory CZ 18 round mags are totally different, longer tube, different baseplate. The MecGar mags with +2 MecGar baseplates will not fit the Production box. The baseplate is too big. There are other pads that will fit though.
  16. I have 4 1050's currently, one of which, an old RL1050 is Mk7 automated. I expect that at least 3 of the machines will be getting sold, possibly all 4. Although I think I'll keep one just to process brass. I do 9mm and 223 on the Mk7 unit right now. the two Super 1050s are setup in 9mm and 40 and the other RL is for 223, but I just yanked the toolhead off of it and threw it on the automated press along with the shellplate to process 223.
  17. Got my letter regarding licence approval and export for my Revo today, looking forward to playing with it soon.
  18. while it may have zero actual effect, I noticed slide stops lasted longer in my Shadows with a shockbuff. I prefer the feel of the slide hitting the buff vs hitting the steel inside the frame. Less shock. I have had zero issues with feeding or extraction/ejection with shockbuffs. I figure CZ put them in there for a reason, which, when at the factory over the last few years (damn, won't be there this year) the guys there say it reduces wear and tear on the gun. For a $1 part to save wear and tear on other parts I say it's a no brainer. But then, Robin Sebo doesn't run them soooooo I prefer 147s over 124s, less felt recoil, less snappy and I run sub 0.2 splits with them, often down in the low teens, so yeah, I like em.
  19. I've been using thick buffers in my Shadow for years, the Canadian Shadowmates came with them installed. I love them. I run the thick in my Shadow 2 with zero issues. Ridiculously long life on them. I just replaced one that had 17,000 rounds fired with it.
  20. I see a bit of a malformed tab on that mag catch, but no bur. can you take it out and take some better pics?
  21. slavex

    Shadow 2 Grips

    Yup Henning fully checkered for the win. Nicest grips I've used so far. Those scales are nice to shoot with, but I have seen the results of a KB with them on, not pretty, not pretty at all.
  22. having a primer go off inside a die is a non event, had that happen when I ran the hold down die in the priming station on my RL1050. it went pop. Any of the similar dies I've seen aren't sealed units, so the primer can't generate any pressure inside the die. Really easy thing to test, take the die used on the swage station out, flip it over, put a primed case on it, and set off the primer either with heat or a strike, nothing great will happen, it will go pop and the case might jump a tad if you've jammed it right down on the die.
  23. the MecGar mags are the new factory mag, that's what S2s and Shadows are shipping with for the most part. The only difference being the stamping on them and possibly the witness holes. although most of my MecGars have the same witness holes as the CZ branded ones (made by MecGar). If there is a round in the mag I don't know how you're going to catch the front lip during a reload, in dryfire sure, but not with loaded mags. The new MecGar mags (well they are a 4 or 5 years old now at least) are a far far superior mag to the old CZ ones, better metal, better built and for us poor Canadians, the 10 round mag is even more better as it's full metal all the way to the baseplate instead of 1/3 plastic at the bottom. Look at the rear of the mag and see how it's a semi-spherical cut instead of the rectangular cut of the old mags, no more cracking of feed lips like the old thin metal mags did. I've abused the living crap out of my mags and they just need the lips smacked back in now and then due to dropping them on concrete floors at my club. My match mags have never had a problem though as they only get dumped on dirt and grass at matches. Even a set of mags I have that I'd misplaced and the springs are all rusty, work just fine (note, when in salty areas it's a good idea to remember to clean your mags before you put them away).
  24. would love to see good pic of it installed and the space between the primer assembly and the new toolhead with a die in it
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