NHGunowner

I appreciate the opinions on the auto forward. I'm not relying on and, and actually would rather not. It's a product of how I mag seat. Like slavex, I send it. I've always been taught the #1 cause of malfunction is a poorly seated mag. Seems unlikely I'm gonna drill that reflex out of me. Under duress (slide lock with timer running!) I believe I'd revert back to mag slammer.

Yes, I also felt this spring tension may have been a bit excessive. I thought about/almost gave it a little tweak. While the gun was fully apart I took the time to thoroughly polish everything. I worked the mag button and it's bore just a little. Mags drop are nice and clean now and also the button a bit softer and smoother. It ran great at the range.

It doesn't need anything crazy, just a little nicer bevel there. Help the mags fall.

One more

Best pics I could make. Hard to see but where those cuts are the burr sits just a tiny bit proud of the surface.

Yeah, I will. I'm going away, it won't be till after the holiday. I wanted to at least diagnose it, was bugging me.

This gun is a month old... Maybe 300 rounds though it. It looks like it was shaped with a dremel cut off wheel. I can see rounded shaped gouge cuts in it.

Any other input on the mag springs? Why the change/upgrade? Will they help the gun strip a round on that auto-forward?

Mag catch is super rough. Big sharp edge sticking out, like a burr. I haven't worked it yet, but that's the cause, for sure.

First comp with my Shadow 2 last weekend. Had a good day and shot ok. First time shooting USPSA, I shot a little IDPA and Steel before, fun time. I did a full Cajun kit- hammer, firing pin, T3 disco, springs etc. The full kit they sell, except haven't done the bushing yet. Came out awesome. Couple things I didn't notice in dry practice. First, mags not dropping. Mag catch is scraping/ dragging like crazy. When dropping mag if I momentary push-release/don't hold the botton until it drops out, mag gets stuck. I must have been holding button longer drilling, it didn't show up there. I also load/seat HARD, so I didn't feel it. I can now clearly see that it's an issue, its apparent when I load in slow, it feels awful. Smooths right out if I hold the button, the catch must be an issue. Anyone had to fix this? Polishing? I haven't removed the mag catch at all yet. I did a Cajun kit but saw no reason to pull the trigger bar spring and mag catch. Second, if I load at slide lock (rookie here, lol), when I smack mag in I get slide auto-forward. Not I "feature" of the gun I realize, but it happens. And when it does I find it often doesn't strip and feed a round. I have the 3 factory MecGars and 4 more MecGars I bought. All 17rd blue followers. Was factory base pads, and hadn't numbered them yet. I did just get in 6 Springers, numbered. Havent shot them yet. Suggestions? Stronger mag springs? I see that mentioned alot, and not sure what the benefit is supposed to be. They're cheap enough, I thought about trying them. Thx for the help!

I've read every post here, great thread, thanks. I just installed the Cajun kit 75810, in my Shadow 2. That's: Race hammer, hammer pins and adjustable sear Floating trigger pin and reduced power trigger spring 11.5 lb hammer spring Extended firing pin and spring T3 disconnector I haven't done the barrel bushing yet. My RCBS spring/fish scale type (not precise) says 7-7.25 DA, 2.5-2.75 SA. I have done zero polishing, straight parts swap. My SA reset is about 2.3mm, not sure how much of that is overtravel, I haven't tuned that at all yet. I'm hoping I can take some of that up. I'm confident the disco is perfect. I went VERY slow. In and out 2 dozen times easily lol. Thanks for taking the time to make the guide Atlas.

Sounds like you got lucky, that's excellent. So I'm a lead mechanic at a big car dealer, responsible for a bunch of younger techs. Sooner or later I always get asked, "how do I get this stripped out/broken bolt?" My answer always starts with, "don't wreck it in the first place!" Your best chances of getting something out is using the original intended tool. Heat, oil, vibration, anything. Once you round or break it, options become very limited and it is difficult to even match the torque you have available with an intact head. Allens in particular, benefit from good, hard, sharp edged drivers. The free ones that come with stuff are usually terrible.

That's pretty much what I was thinking. Sandpaper as primary. I'll have the full CGW kit, with bushing, but I'll be doing in stages. Starting with probably nothing but shooting.

What are people using for shaping parts, disconnectors, etc? Fine files? Plain black oxide or like diamond grit or something? Or something different like stones (manual not dremel, i would assume, if we're talking .001"at a time) or paper? I have a vast supply of tools, some little "key files" that are probably appropriate. I have a CGW kit on the way. No gun yet, waiting for one to pop up at a LGS. I prefer to buy local.

Doesn't the Accu bushing require milling/modification to the slide? Or am I misunderstanding that? A bushing upgrade/replacement (eg, CGW) would be allowed under 21.6. However, a modification to the slide to make that change would be prohibited under 21.1 "INTERNAL modifications that do NOT conflict with other clauses of this appendix, are ALLOWED." And 21.2b "A slide may be modified specifically for installing sights, and for no other purpose."