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Face5535

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About Face5535

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    Looks for Match
  • Birthday February 15

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    Orland Park IL
  • Real Name
    Robert Cee

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  1. Wow... now rethinking the whole thing. Uh, total let down reading this stuff:(
  2. I didnt want to start a new thread so I figured popping over to this thread was the right move. I am considering an EVO! With that said, I would be getting rid of a lot of blue press stuff to fund it. I am hoping you guys can guide me through some decisions... Is the Evo or Evo pro the better choice? I currently do not have a drive on my 1050's and pulling a handle doesnt bug me. I think the auto drive would be sweet but 6K plus on a press is not cheap. Not gonna get into the whole "is it worth it" convo on this thread but, I am curious if the thoughts are Standard or Pro. Also, is the Evo the Evo? Meaning if I buy the Evo can I later convert it all the way up to the pro? I have gotten mixed info on this. It would be nice to break up the cost a bit and buy the regular evo and add drive later if possible... I think I read/or was told the Evo pro and the Evo are two totally different presses. Anyway give me some thoughts on this? I would essentially be going from 2 1050's and a 650 to either the Evo or Evo pro (in 9mm and 45) and keeping the 650 (or selling the 650 and keeping 1 1050 and having an evo). I am not looking for thoughts on what I should keep etc... Just thoughts specific to Evo or Evo Pro.
  3. loving this last season so far. GOT is probably the best series start to ___ (Where we are now) that I have seen.
  4. I get that:) For whatever reason I really did think that the MK7 looked really nice at the NRA Show. I also think it would be nice to clear some space on my bench going from 3 presses and a s#!t ton of conversions down to 2.
  5. Going off topic a bit here... I was able to look at both the revo and evo... both machines were very nice! Currently I have 2 1050’s and a 650. 1050’s are set up as a large and small primer machine and pretty much stay set to 45 and 9mm. The 650 is whatever and gets very little play outside of some 38 stuff. I have a lot of caliber swaps (full set ups) for the 1050(9/45/38sp/38super/300/223). I also have duplicates of those on the 650. In all honesty, this is way overkill for me as I just don’t shoot enough to justify having all this. I do however like having the option and stuff on hand. i have been considering selling both 1050’s and caliber conversions to buy one of the MK7 presses as well as a caliber conversion. (45 and 9). I would keep my 650 for fast load workup and one off calibers. i have no clue what the price offsets would be on this but am looking for some feedback on what press set up would make most sense and which options I need. Anyone here have opinions, thoughts, or guidance?
  6. Only it wasnt 100% user error. The press was recently returned to me from a rebuild from Dillon “ready to go”. I didn’t think I would have thought to go through it and make sure the press was greased up correctly when that should have been done before they returned it. Anyway, lesson learned there... At this point it’s whatever! I bought the bolt. I’ll buy whatever parts I need for the 1050 moving forward. When I call for a part on my 650 and they decide that they don’t want to... I’ll be asking for a supervisor.
  7. I didn’t... not even sure why. If that happens again I will.
  8. Yes, figured it out... the cam bolt and S channel didn’t have any grease at all on it. Some grease really smoothed that up and took care of the issue. There is a thread in the forum just under this one that reads RL1050 issues... Dillon rep commented there... but a friend of mine came over and informed me before.
  9. Yes, this fixed my issue. After calling in and asking I was told “we are not sure what the issue could be”. Finally I spoke to an older reloaded who has had a RL1050 his whole shooting life. He explained this to me as well. When i called to order the cam bolt, one rep did explain this to me as well... sadly it was a call short and another broken cam bolt.
  10. Well, don’t get to used to it man... this was more the point of my thread. I was “assimilated” to it too. It’s just shocking when you are used to being treated very well and then told those parts are x amount of $$. Again, it wouldn’t be a big deal for me if were the first time and only on 1050 parts, but as mentioned up top I’ve been asked to pay for 650 parts... Im over it and I’ll buy the $4 part, but IMO Dillon care has changed over the years... years ago they gladly would take care of parts, even send multiples out... and literally help with any issue. As it stands today, and my experience over the last year... trouble shooting support as well as warranty have suffered. For me the problem is Dillon used to be so good that it raised to bar for me. I knew no matter what, I was going to be taken care of. Now, they are still very good... it’s just not 100% that I get the answer or result that I want when I call.
  11. Just to clarify, this was on a 650 machine... not the 1050. So, yes- when a machine comes with a lifetime no BS warranty and Dillon gives me BS I feel as though I should get a bit upset about it.
  12. Sure! But I have:(. As mentioned up top I’ve been told I need to pay for springs and other broken or worn parts on my 650. I have also been given some parts for my 1050... so with Dillon, which one is it... is it covered or not?! **Its not like parts get worn or break often BTW. I can count on one hand how many parts I’ve needed from them over the years.
  13. I do appreciate the thoughts here though... my question and reason for the thread was to actually hear others thoughts on this... I want to state as far as actually policy goes, am in the wrong here. Just want that to be clear.
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