slavex

I have the QD's on my measures, best investment ever for them beyond the micrometer on the measure. I made my own but wasn't happy with them so ended up just ordering some instead.

yeah I know it's engineered to fail in case of a jam, but it just bends too easy in my opinion

I'm running a buddies rollsizer, so I can't be making mods to it, but man, I'm tempted. a simple fix would be a larger diameter rod, something stronger than the 3mm rod that is used.

the spring wire on the case feeder cam thing are a pain in the ass. I'm assuming they are designed to fail in case of a jam, but they bend incredibly easily and quickly just from regular use. love the base though, and moving of the case feeder mount is smart, should have been that way from the start.

ripped it apart again last night and decided to break out the flitz (never done that before, usually my stones did a good enough job). Hit the trigger bow, disco and underside of the sear cage, to say it's nice now would be an understatement.

@Steyrarms I'm using Tightgroup. After I watched this video I noticed the powder spill I was getting around the powder measure station, not a lot, but some. I also had a few cases not get powder, the measure wasn't activating. I was all ready to get mad about it, but then put 2 and 2 together and realized I hadn't adjusted the powder measure die down far enough, which meant that the odd case wouldn't push the measure up high enough to trigger the switch and throw powder, it also meant I wasn't getting a good tight seal of the funnel and the case (with the digital measure the funnel goes on the outside of the case, not into the case. Once I adjusted it down further, both problems vanished. The only reason I see spilled powder now is if I pull a case to confirm weight and then bump the case on something when I go to put it back and spill some, which means that case gets dumped and run at the end. Probably the best sensor for me now is the orientation sensor, no more live rounds with upside down primers. Some primers run perfect, Federal, CCI, and S&B, not one upside down in 15,000 loaded for me and a couple others. But my practice primers and likely soon to be match primers, Ginex (softer than Federal), seem to manage to make it into the disk upside down. I'm going to run a couple thousand with no cases to see how it happens and see if I can tune the collator better. They are so soft that trying to carefully unseat them for reuse is seldom successful. I can do that with Feds without leaving a dent, not the Ginex, they distort super easy.

While I catch my rounds normally, if they hit the ground they are staying there. Not worth the risk to pick up someone else's ammo and have that nuke my gun at a later date.

the Revo is covered under ITAR regs and as such there are permits and such that have to be dealt with, and those can take a lot of time. The Evolution, even the automated one however is not, and it and it's parts can be sent back and forth with no issues. Which is dumb, because they have the exact same parts other than the direct connect of the Revo

The Primer Orientation sensor is the bees knees, love it on my Revo, but the new digital powder measure with the smaller drum cavity for pistol is amazing. I've weighed over 1000 throws this past week, charge I want is 3.20 grs TG, heaviest was 1 throw of 3.24, and then around 20 at 3.22 a few at 3.21, some at 3.18 and the rest 3.20 exactly. I weighed 500 immediately after setting it up, and then 500 more randomly over the rest of the week of loading.

The new toolhead has an index pin for the new primer collator, it positively lines up the primer disc with the shell plate and primer seating punch. I've now loaded 2500 rounds with federal primers and not a single problem. Couldn't do that before. Here's a short video of it working.

Got my Revo back up and running this weekend. Holy crap the new powder measure rocks. I ran 500 rounds through just to measure the powder in each one, aim was 3.20gr of Titegroup, result was high of 3.24 low of 3.18, but the 3.24 was a single case out of 500, the rest were 3.22 as a high. so a 0.02gr+/- variance, I'm happy with that. Then random checking over the next 4500 rounds loaded and still managed the same 3.22 top and 3.18 lowest, but almost all were bang on at 3.20gr. The smaller cavity in the drum and the double actuation at the top help with all that I think. Also the new adjustment setup is a huge improvement, easy to set and lock, and no backing off. Only thing I wish was that they had a micrometer adjustment screw, but this new setup is a lot better than the old one. The primer orientation sensor is also a great little device, took me a bit to get it set, but over the 4500 rounds it caught all but one upside down primer, and there were only 6 total over the 4500. The new primer disk and upgraded toolhead are the biggest improvement to the machine though, no crushed primers, no screwed up primers, just those 6 upside down ones. love it.

Hmmm, hadn't swapped sears, I will try that. thanks

during the DA stroke on my practice gun I have always had a bit of crunch (Shadow 2). I have no idea where it's from or what causes it. I've swapped out hammers, springs, hammer struts and it's still there. So it's somewhere in the frame I guess? Anyone know the feeling I'm talking about and how to get rid of it?

you would need to figure out how to modify the count device, or use a 100 round tube. another thing is how would it start up again, you'd need an eye to detect when the tube needed filling as well.

really hoping my digital measure comes back with a smaller drum in it, I've been asking for that all along.

I see more and more posts from people upgrading to variable speed drives on their Dillon case feeders, I am curious how many experience issues with cases not dropping and binding the case feed plate? I have a pretty old RL 1050 and motor really only turns the case plate reliably on "high" and I get regular jams of 9mm brass on the edge of the dropper opening, that stop the whole thing. Wouldn't running it faster make this more likely? I've tried adjusting the metal lip thing to restrict and expand the opening, makes no difference. Any tips on that would be much appreciated.

recoil springs are for reliably loading ammo into the chamber, that's all really. So they really don't mean much to extraction, unless you have one so heavy the slide doesn't get all the way back. I'd be sending the gun back to CZUSA or off to CZ Custom for diagnosis and fix.

I've left brass sitting in dirty water for days, simply ran it for 20 minutes before emptying it out, no issue at all with staining or anything

I am waiting for mine to show up, but have been told they have been fixed. I'll post here as soon as I get them.

I've been using them since they first came out in the Canadian Shadowmates, whenever that was, I've yet to see one come apart and affect the function of the gun. If they are getting cut up, remove and replace if you like. I've not seen a single one go to pieces or anything and contaminate the gun.

there are new Rami style slidestops available from the usual sources in Europe that are actually designed for the 2. The first batch were wrong, but that has been fixed.

please pm me to arrange for shipping of your unused shockbuffs from CZ Shadow and Shadow 2 guns, I will happily pay postage to receive them. On a serious note, I trust the engineers at CZUB to actually know what they are doing for the most part (lets leave the cracked 2s out of this for now). Mine last and last and last. I know another serious competitor that has had his last more than 10,000 rounds with no issues. Recoil does not feel weird, or wrong or anything like that. For a $1 part they are a cheap replacement for when they finally do need to be replaced. I've never had one jam up my gun, even after cutting through it with the spring box on the slide.

yeah I prefer the Shadow 2 frame anyhow.

ahh of course the TS mags are wider aren't they, so a regular Shadow trigger bar wouldn't work. Hmmm this will require more work. I know the sear cage is a lot different, but I also know the Shadow sear cage will drop right in, as the TS one will fit in a Shadow, with the trigger bar removed. maybe the idea of just fitting the TS slide to a Shadow 2 frame like Robin did is a better idea still.

looking to build a 40 cal DA/SA Standard/Open gun, looking at various options. I hate manual safeties, prefer DA/SA by a hundred billion to 1.