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Postal Bob

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About Postal Bob

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    Calls Shots

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    Baldwin, NY
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    Robert Bonadonna

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  1. As for bullets, many open shooters I know shoot coated bullets, Ibejiheads specifically. Montana Gold bullets, besides being very consistant, have a harder jacket than other jacketed bullets. This leads to way less fouling in the gun, but also means the need to increase the powder charge to compensate for the harder, and therefore slower bullet.
  2. Sounds like a fairly easy fitting with a small flat file.
  3. So, you had to widen the cutout notch for the slide stop in the frame?
  4. Sounds like a design flaw of the Sig mags, or the way the mags sit in the gun. Like the top round sits to high in the mag, way above the front of the magazine. I have no experience with Sigs, only 1911/2011 guns. In those guns, you want the front feed lips wider than the rear to facilitate easier feeding from the mag. And the top round can only move foward up to the inside of the front of the mag.
  5. More info needed: When you say "noses foward", do you mean it moves foward in mag, points up, or points down? Could be an OAL issue., or a mag feed lip issue. Does it do it with all mags, or just one? And what is OAL of your reloads? Again, could be an OAL issue.
  6. It used to be with the Nitro Fin 1.0, you'd have to drill the detent hole, and slim down the pin somewhat to fit throught the barrel link without dragging. The Ver 2 now has the detent already drilled, and much tighter tolerance of the pin. So, the only thing you have to look for is that the top of the rest, clears the bottom of the slide. And that would be a very simple procedure to fit.
  7. I keep a strict regiment of how many rounds I shoot in each of my competition 1911/2011 guns. I never go more than 3K rounds before changing springs. And on my 9mm 1911 with the 10lb spring, I find the lighter springs wear out faster than a heavier spring. So I change them around 1500-2,000 round count. And if you're feeling the recoil that much, your springs are really worn out. Springs are a cheap enough to replace on a regular basis. Usually, if you shoot a lot, you'll notice you double taps will begin to spread out, before you really start feeling the increased recoil.
  8. It sounds like more a problem of your resizing die. Either your die is not screwed down enough to size completely, or the die you're using has a concave shaped sizing carbide ring, which doesn't allow complete resizing of the brass.
  9. Lets' review the facts: Your case mouths, after sizing, are too large to hold a bullet. Your cases are getting stuck when the cases are being withdrawn from the sizing die. If the die was indeed not a 9mm, but say a 380, the case mouths would be too small to seat a bullet. But since you verified the die is indeed a 9mm, and it's tight on the downstroke, then it's reasonable to guess the die is incorrectly marked, or your expander die is incorrect and for some other caliber. Find someone who has a set of 9mm dies to borrow and verify which die is not right.
  10. Sounds like your extractor is way too tight. It may occasionally work with factory rounds, depending on brand and rim edge thickness.
  11. They come standard in the Springfield RO Elites. In my compact 9mm and 45acp RO's I do feel like they lessen recoil better, particulary in the 45. And it seems they function equally well with lighter target loads, and defensive ammo. But like stated, they are somewhat noisy when dry firing and racking the slides. And I'm not sure I would bother switching out the regular springs in my competition guns, for a flat wire system. I just feel I can fine tune the gun better with regular springs. In my carry guns, I like them for the fact that though they are set up for heavy defensive ammo, the gun functions equally well with light target loads for practice.
  12. Hre's a video showing how to disassemble and reassemble the gun. If afterwards it still blocks the mag from inserting, then remove the sear spring and file down th tab. But make sure everything else is properly in place first. The tab shouldn't stick through unless the recess for the mainspring housing is deeper than normal. https://youtu.be/oWXFdfDUdKQ
  13. That is definitely the tab of the mainspring. But it shouldn't stick through that much, unless it was installed at an upward angle. Does the trigger, hammer, trigger reset, grip safety all work correctly? I'm guesing not. On a 2011, it's much easier removing and inserting the sear spring and grip safety, than on a 1911.Start by removing the thumb safety and grip safety. Lower the hammer, then remove the mainspring housing enough to take out the sear spring. Keep the hammer down, and the trigger foward. Then lay the sear spring flat in the grip, and move the mainspring housing up enough to secure the bottom of the sear spring in its tab slot. Making sure the hammer strut sits in the cup on the mainspring housing. Work the grip safety in place making sure the right leg of the sear spring sits under the inner tab extension on the grip safety. Then slide the mainspring housing all the way up, and secure with the pin, Reinstall the grip safety afterwards
  14. Here's some relevant info that just happened to me: One of my mags just started having trouble seating easily. There was some resistance to going in the last 1/8-1/4". It wasn't evident until I locked the slide back, and slowly inserted the mag. The left feed lip front edge was catching the area of the slide stop removal notch on the slide. With the slide removed, it inserted fine. Over time, obviously from dropping loaded mags on a hard ground, the feed lip opened up a little. After adjusting the feed lips back to spec, and then filing a small radius to the outside edge, the mag inserted smoothly again. After this, I chamferred all the outside edges of my mag feed lips. Hope this helps by giving you someting to look for.
  15. Many things it could've been including simply brass fatigue. That particular shell might've been loaded and shot in a 9mm major gun. The brass from such loads doesn't last long.
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