m134b

I use the Brownells stuff. Reusable and lasts forever when cared for... I've been using the same batch for about 6 years now! LOL Ken

Justin is a great guy, and has done some really cool stuff. He's actually the reason I got my CNC That's my biggest problem! My "day" job isn't interested in helping me get better at programming, so I'm having to do it myself, in what small amount of free time I have. I'm thinking I can leave the area below the trigger guard solid, and just take the right side out right below the mag catch. I should have some progress on that by Feb. LOL! Ken

Well, I've come to the conclusion that I'll have to tackle this thing as two halves.... There are several internal features that can't be modified as extensively as would be required to do it in one piece The internal "tab" that holds the bolt release has several undercuts to allow it to function properly, and I can't get the right geometry without extensively modifying the part. The mag well will also remove too much of the stinkin' thing to remain structurally sound. (clearance for the follower button). Right now I'm trying to figure out the best way to section the thing, both aesthetically, and structurally. It's VERY easy to see why noone has even TRIED to mass produce these things! This makes a 1911 frame look laughably simple! Ken

All correct on the "what is it"... Trust me.... That's a ROUGH, ROUGH prototype....Just testing to make sure the major things are in the right places before I go nuts with the rest of it.... Still yet, that represents probably 50+- hours as it sits... I wish I were better at it... Just "parts" I can do easily... but complex 3D drives me APE! Ken

Anyone guess what it is? Ken

The "target" model isn't....... Best way is to find a GOOD smith to take it to.... Trigger work can be done, but you've got to know what you're doing inside these little devils. lots of MIM parts, and lots of things that if messed with, can lead to problems... make sure the 'smith polishes/rounds the tabs on the side of the trigger bow, as they wear the SNOT out of the frame as they come in their stamped form... ALSO, NEVER use a "wet" lube on them! The frame and slide are made of ZINC and will wear extremely fast as the oil or greaase accumulates grime! With all that said... I have one I've put close to 35K through with the only issue being a broker hammer spring, and a broken trigger return spring. both failed right around the 30K mark. That's a LOT of ammo for a cheapie plinker pistol! Ken

8" steel gong at 200 yards with Kimber Ultra Carry II. Elevation was.... eh....borderline anti-aircraft........ Missed the first 7, hit it 2 out of the 2'nd mag, hit it 5 out of the 3'rd. 'couse this was off a bench. Ken

I seriously doubt it'll be loose, if anything you may wind up fitting it still yet. Wish I had the dimensions to post, but alas do not. Ken

Eh.... It's on the big side of medium.... When you actually ride on the carriage... THAT is a BIG lathe... Let's see you USPS flatrate box this thing! Ken

Brownells has excellent punches. I bought the bolt catch pin punch from them, and have the set you linked to as well. However, I did make my own set (about 20 different sizes and styles) for those stubborn pins, and for the final seating of round head pins such as front sight taper pins. Having only about .100 length of the "working" diameter makes them extremely rigid, and easier to hold on target. Ken

Yeah..... It works....... There's NO POSSIBLE way you could even THINK of sleep with that foul taste in your mouth! Ken

I like the 10.3" barrels myself, and in the accuracy range you're wanting, should fit the bill nicely. Hammer forged + chrome is better for long life, however, unless you're burning ammo like it's a SAW, you'll likely get a solid 8K rounds through it before it opens up beyond 2MOA. Ken

Didn't you know!? Tape fixes EVERYTHING.... 'specially if it's Duct Tape! (wonders why the OP didn't use the REAL man's fix-all instead of mere "hockey tape") Ken

I have done the conversion of a standard base. Took me about 30 minutes with my mill, a belt sandder, chainsaw file, and some sandpaper. I went a little bit beyond just lopping the tower off though. I actually contoured the gas tube area to match over it's full length. I then opened up the taper pin holes and tapped them for 8-40 set screws. put the taper pins in the barrel. then I milled flats into it so that the set screws had a flat surface to bite into without making removal difficult. Parked the thing and you'd think it came that way from the factory! It's been going strong for over 8K rounds! Ken

Yep.... mine is a very faint ring.... caused by way too much shooting and working in machine shops. even with hearing protection... Fortunately mine is VERY high frequency and I don't notice it unless it's dead quiet, but it's there. I've always tried to protect my hearing, but sometimes it just isn't enough. Shoot enough "large" rifles, it doesn't really matter WHAT you do. That's why I try to have, or have available suppressors for dang near everything! Ken

Hmmmmmm........... fingernail polish..... Wonder if I could get my wife to seal primers that way. In all seriousness, the stuff midway sells is good to go, however if you're storing in good condion ammo cans, you really don't have to worry about it. Ken

How thick is the collator plate itself? What size/type motor are you using, any caveats or things to watch out for in regard to tolerancing, What diameter and wall thickness is the "bowl" you're using? Perhaps an explanation of the how/why of the two tabs and what looks like a spring at the top of the bowl? Is there anything special about the hole the bullets drop into the feed tube through? And, last but not least a good explanation of the assembly that feeds the bullets into the die. I've made some pretty wild stuff before, but I've always taken a great deal of time and worked them out in SolidWorks and GibbsCam before I even started work. Yours looks to be a very heavy duty assembly and I'd like to gain enough info to get it right the first time I sincerely thank you for posting the pics, and for the info you offer! Ken

Care to share some specs jmorris? I have.... oh... about 10' of 8"o.d. aluminum tube that just MIGHT work for such things! Ken

UPS, Fedex, and USPS love me Usually get them each a Christmas card and throw in a gift card. My Fedex guy actually helps out part time at one of the local shops My USPS guy is retired USMC, and the current UPS driver has barely had time to get all the sand off! I DREAD the day any of'em transfer/retire from their jobs! Ken

Bubba's gunsmiffin' Chop is still alive and well I see..... fixed several like that... Not my work there, but the second smith did an admirable job given what he had to work with! Ken

So.... are you the type to just walk on them til' they cause enough drag on pant legs to drop a cape buffalo, or do you sweep? Either way, post up some pics!

HAHAAHA! Ever have to offer one of'em chewing gum? Long story, not very nice, and not suited to a family forum..... but one ANYONE who holds the line can relate to! BTW: Machinist, SMALL business owner, gun plumber, and former reserve LEO. Ken

Yeah, that ammo was pushing the brass to the absolute limit! I've seen some of the 158gn +p+ stuff meant for Uzi do that in MP-5, but guy was about as bright as a blown bulb in a closet..... When the stuff has a warning "ONLY FOR USE IN UZI SMG".... It "might" be a good idea to listen! Ken

Ok, you've convinced me to not do the whole slide hammer thing... Looks like turned brass rod only it'll be. I'll make a set for the common calibers and post pics when done! Ken

You're right KMCA.... slide needs to be heavier, and have a little more travel... <----- gets evil grin I DO have access to machinable tungsten..... Belive they have some 1 3/8" O.D. solid drops. I'll have to see if I can get one I figure upping the travel to 2" should do the trick for ANY stubborn bullet with THAT much mass persuading it! Then again....... I can only imagine the tirade of colorful language the first time I pinch myself with the thing! Whatmeworry: My pistol was a TRUE labor of love... If you call kicking, screaming, and pleading at your computer and mill to make them cooperate.... But, that's a discussion for another thread Ken