m134b

I've actually seen some M-16 selectors worn to the point you could smack them with a nylon punch and replace'em without even loosening the pistol grip! This was usually caused by a cheap (other terms come to mind) armorer that tried fixing things by just replacing the detent. Popped new selector in by simply depressing the detent with the same nylon punch. In AR-15's that are in spec, you can USUALLY remove the safety by loosening the pistol grip to the point the safety has very little tension on it, over-rotate it as though it were an M-16 selector and pushing it out. replace in reverse order, remembering to depress the detent with something to keep from shearing the top off of the detent. Ken

LOL! I actually printed them for gunroom humor! A better quote on either would be "You can't fix stupid" Ken

Sounds like your mag has either bent, cracked, or worn out feed lips. Double feed is always a problem in the mag, now failure to extract or eject, multiple causes on those! I'd suggest some Brownell's or Magpul magazines, both are GREAT magazines! Not to mention the price point is awesome on either! Ken

Yep Already have several other 1911's. I've been lurking and reading about what is needed for competition, but that's not what this one is for. This pistol is just for the "holy crap that's cool, and it shoots too!" factor. Just wanting something a little different . Seems everything SV makess fits that though! LOL Sincerely, Ken

I'm wanting to build a 6" 1911 with a full length dust cover. Alas, either SV's site isn't organized well enough, or I'm not bright enough to figure out... whether this is available . If it is, any ballpark on cost? Any info would be appreciated! TIA!, Ken

Shame ya missed out on that one! You "can" run motors that big off of phase converters, but it's a MAJOR pain! Without barfeed actually isn't a "huge" disadvantage unless you're doing major production. I.E. 500+ parts at a time. Heck, I just ran 1K plus parts tonight off of two lathes w/o barfeeders... Kinda hard to cram 175mm tube through a Mori SL-25 spindle though :-/ . Ken

I actually like the Magpul stuff, Most of their stuff is a significant improvement over factory, or a lot of aftermarket for that matter... The one exception is their pistol grips. Never have liked how they felt. Tangodown Battlegrip BG-16 IMO has'em all beat. Sorry for the thread driftage... ANYWAY, as to a solution bettter than the roll pin... well, I suppose you could drill/ream/tap for a small shoulder bolt of some sort. but then if the threads strip you're SOL... Maybe a detent system as at the front of the trigger guard? Ken

As a note, I "think" tangodown has a little plastic punch for moving stubborn takedown pins that when set under the "tab", JUST out of the path of the pin, supports things very nicely on the bench. Been using that technique for a long time. Removing or installing the trigger guard pin isn't exactly vise friendly I belive I have some delrin scraps I could make you a quick'n'dirty support block out of if'n you're really worried about it. Ken

I always go "left to right" when removing pins... As Wide45 said, support that tab well. Short, hard strikes on the punch work best to get them moving and out. If it doesn't move after a couple good hits, spray on some Kroil or other penetrating lube and let it set a few minutes Hope this helps Ken

First post, and something I know a little about The "how it's done" is the easy part! the hard part is doin' it right! First, get some screws of the appropriate length. Heat them up to anneal them and make them soft enough to "peen". Then Countersink the offending holes until you have a chamfer that removes ONLY the thread that is closest to the surface, amy more and you have a LOT of peening to fill it, any less and it won't fill properly. Grind the ends off the screws you're going to use, reasonably true is good enough... screw them into the holes, about .075 to .100 over the surface you're blending to, using some ultra heavy duty stupid strong loc-tite as you go. Support the frame from inside the dust cover to keep from crushing it... This is IMPORTANT! Use a small ball peen hammer to pound the screw until it expands to fill the chamfer you cut. File flush, and finish. Done right you will not be able to see the repair. Done wrong.... well, that's expensive! Hope this helps, perform at your own risk! Ken