m134b

Thanks for the info! MGM it is A little pricey for "home use", but insane fun! Ken

Does anyone make a super beefy texas star? 1/2" AR500 or so? 6" plates? Ken

Ramping the 9mm bolt will help smooth things out a little bit, It helps on the semis as well, not just F/A 9mm AR's. M60Joe does excellent work, as do several other 'smiths. Ken

FN makes them foir the .gov, You should be good to go with their BCG. Ken

Looking specifically for CZ item number 91153. Id actually like to get two! Lol Ken

Does anyone know who might have the stock CZ SP-01 w/ steel frame in stock? Thanks! Ken

That would be awesome if it worked on Glocks! I just might have to try that. Ken

Been around for a while, Here is a vid with a pretty decent explanation of how it works. Ken

I have "This Old Colt".... I need some ID assistance, It "appears" to be a .32 of some sort. If anyone has the model based on the pics, I would be GREATLY appreciative! Also, The cylender stop doesn't look right.... It has a section at the top rear that looks to have been ground away to prevent it from locking the cylender when the hammer is cocked.... (hammer wouldn't work even if it would, because the firing pin doesn't fit through the frame. Edited to add, I am experiencing technical difficulties uploading pics at the moment.... Ken

John, Simply de-cock your hammer, then use a proper diameter brass or nylon punch and PUSH, don't smack, your hammer pin out. remove hammer, then repeat for the trigger. Take care to note the orientation of the springs, make sure you put'em back in the same way. remove the original safety lever, replace with new one, assemble in reverse order. AR's aren't all that complex, and very little to be afraid of except the 3 detents and their springs, they tend to go flying! Ken

Douglas and Krieger are my top two. Had both, absolutely love both brands. If properly chambered and maintained they will give excellent service for at least 5K rounds. You will know when they go too. Every barrel I've "worn out" went from sub MOA, to shotgun pattern in the space of 500 rounds when it reached the end of it's useful life. This is due to throat erosion. Easy fix is to remove the barrel, remove bbl extension, cut back to mid length, retime barrel extension, rechamber, and get another few thousand out of it! Ken

I use a worn out chamber brush and JB bore paste mixed with Kroil. 10-15 seconds with a cordless drill on low and you've done PLENTY. That is all a fresh cut chamber needs to smooth out any imperfections that would cause issue. More than that and, as others have said, you could be making a rather expensive mistake. Ken

That looks like a KT ordnance frame. They have their frames furnace brazed together from two halves. The halves are machined, then pinned and brazed together. Ken

What really kills me is every time they show the manual mill, It's squealing like a little 3 year old who got it's hand slammed in a car door! Ken

To each their own . Personally I'd build up the stainless. Some of that is because I'm somewhat lazy and there's less work involved! Let us know what way you go and post some progress pics! Ken

Were it me, I'd build on the stainless and keep the older rifle as-is. You can get "non key" shrouds from multiple sourcers. Brownells part #100-000-537 Add to that http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=763249 and your physical conversion is complete.... Basically throw $400 (depending on your level of gun-fu ) at it and you have the rifle you WANT, without butchering a classic Ken

Thanks guys! She's already got daddy wrapped around her finger! Both mom and baby are doing great, expected to return home Friday or Saturday. Been telling my wife she'll be more like dad than either of the boys.... That always gets mom going! I'll post a pic once I get the time to deal with the camera. Ken

Well, today my third and FINAL child made her entrance into the world! 7# 13oz 19" long Faith Marie graced us with an unexpected and scary entrance into the outside world via emergency C section. Her heart rate kept dropping while being checked on today, thus the hairy hurry. Turns out she had wrapped the cord around her head... Her brother, born naturally, thought it'd be a great idea to tie a knot in his Seems to run in the family! Anyway, one very happy, on cloud nine dad is going to bed now. Just thought I'd share a little good news with the BEnosphere! Ken

That's perfectly normal... That's actually where the barrel meets the receiver. Nothing special or anything to get worried about unless it's terribly misaligned. Getting them back together seems to be the only major problem people have with'em. I've "fixed" so blasted many of them that came back in boxes... LOL Ken

If you don't have a local Vocational school that offers machining courses, you can sometimes find an old codger (said with the greatest respect! ) who can instruct you. I've learned more from these living encyclopedias than I EVER did in school! If you think about it, the 1911 we are all so fond of was prototyped on manual machines! The sky is the limit! It all depends on your desire to learn, and to a much lesser extent on your budget. With knowledge you can make just about anything you could want. Ken

Ok... Here goes... The following is merely my method for dealing with these things..... Your mileage may vary! First thing is to make sure there is absolutely no binding anywhere along the slide's travel. To check, remove the fire control group from the frame, and remove the barrel, recoil spring, and guide rod from the slide. Make sure it can slide the full length of travel under it's own weight. If you find it is not, You'll want to remove the offending material from the frame, as the slide is anodized aluminum and will wear incredibly fast if you remove it from there. Next. Insert the conversion magazine, check for binding again. Make sure that the slide isn't dragging on the magazine feed lips. Same rules apply here as with the slide. Mags are a LOT cheaper though, so mod the lips, or the mag catch as you see fit. Check the extractor tension, making sure it will hold a rimfire case securely. Also, make sure that the inside, bottom edge of the extractor has a SLIGHT bevel, to ease the rim of the cartridge into position without robbing excess energy from the slide trying to jam the rim over a sharp corner. make sure the firing pin and it's hole are clean of debris and move easily. If all these are done and it still won't run, then you can start messing with the springs. Work with the mainspring first. Take a few different mainspring housings with different weights installed to the range and swap them out. as a LAST resort, trim the recoil spring, one coil at a time. The reason that should be last is, as mentioned earlier, to ensure the slide has enough forward momentum to strip the round from the magazine and seat it in the chamber properly. Hopefully this will help those who are having issues with their conversions. Sincerely, Ken

Properly tuned, it should have no issues with standard velocity, but they're just like any other rimfire conversion, they'll need some work to make them run. PM me if you want more details. Ken

I enjoy watching it simply to be amazed they get anything to work! If .001" of misalignment will cause their integral AK to puke it's pieces all over creation they REALLY need to go back to Suppression 101 and bone up on projectile clearance, threading, and tolerance stacking. Also, looking at their monocore, they should really look at some gas flow dynamics software. And paint? Duracoating everything you sell isn't exactly showing quality workmanship. One thing they really should do is give a proper explanation of the NFA act and the GCA. It would help reduce a lot of the confusion surrounding just WHAT they are doing. Ken

Just wanted to say Merry Christmas to everyone on the forums. May it be a great one for everyone! Ken

Well, after over a year and a half of giving my all to this company, They lay me off.... All because of a series of very BAD ideas that upper management had, and executed, in SPITE of being told they were BAD ideas by everyone they talked to! Nothing like buying another company, dragging all their stuff 2K miles (13+ hydromat machines) Spending almost $30,000,000.00 for all of that, and NOT MAKING SURE YOU HAD THE WORK THEY WERE RUNNING PREVIOUSLY IN THE BAG! Oh well.... 'least now I have time to catch up on my reloading, gunsmithing, and programming! LOL BTW, if anyone knows of an arms manufacturer or machine shop that's SOLID, and looking for help. Let me know! Thanks for letting me vent Ken