m134b

Thanks for the direction Sarge I'm definately overbuilding... But at least my principle is sound! I'll crank one out and post pics, prob'ly be the weekend before I get to make "personal" chips... but oh well I now have a plan that has to be executed. Ken

note: Merged threads. - Admin. I've been using dowell rod from lowes, but have only needed it a couple times. However, being the anal retentive type I'd like to create something more durable, aesthetic, and functional. This is what I'm thinking so far.... .625" brass rod. 12" OAL. 7" turned to .4450" O.D. with O ring groove @ square shoulder to protect muzzle or chamber. .500" section left unturned. Then remainder turned to .400. End drilled and tapped 3/8x24. 4" long 1" O.D. piece of 4130 drilled and reamed to .401" I.D. Knurled O.D. black oxide coated. 1" O.D. 3/8" I.D. fender washer and a 3/8x24 SHCS to cap it all off. Basically, a mini slide hammer..... Am I missing anything? Should I profile the front end for different bullet shapes? Am I NUTS putting this much into a stinkin' range rod? LOL Ken

Go Miller all the way, By far the most "common" machine to get service/support after the sale. I have both MIG and TiG units from Miller and both are superb machines. Used within their parameters you'll not have any difficulty with them at all. I'm NOT the greatest TiG welder.... but I get acceptable results.. A saying my shop instructor used comes to mind : "Mig is a job... TiG is an ART!" Ken

Did the gun run fine before the magazines were rebuilt? Is the slide locking back? If so then the followers are engaging your slide stop too soon, remove material from the ledge that engages the slide stop. your feed angle may be different on the new followers as well, if so, you can reprofile without too much trouble. Hope this helps, can't really offer more without looking at the gun/mags in hand. Ken

If it were not for having machine tools and the knowledge to use them, I wouldn't have anything! LOL Looks relatively simple to create.... I'll do some digging and see if I can find more info on homebrew power drawbars, give me more ideas... Here's the air wrench that a lot seem to be calling for.... http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-75-ft-lbs-torque-compact-air-impact-wrench-93100.html Ken

Just interjecting my .02 here, but if you run a taper crimp for RIFLE (.223/5.56 in my case) You CAN undercrimp. was testing a new lot of brass I'd purchased, The brass was just a TAD shorter than what I normally run and the taper crimp didn't hold the bullet as well.. had one scoot out and cause enough pressure to jam up the magazine. So, it can happen, but it shouldn't if you watch what you're doing. Ken

I personally use stainless steel media.... a little dish soap and lemishine, in this beast http://www.lortone.com/images/C40.gif Works great, and has MAJOR capacity Available here: http://www.lortone.com/commercial_tumblers.html The only downside is getting all the little pins separated, but it takes less time than fighting with walnut or corncob in rifle cases.... I put a computer fan in the bottom of a 20mm ammo can along with a light bulb... Couldn't imagine processing brass any other way now! Ken

Perhaps the lugs have burrs and sharp corners from machining, the gas ring groove or the bearing surfaces are oversized. It may just need breaking in. I've seen some crazy stuff with AR's and M-16's.... Hopefully you've solved the issue Ken

The link CSEMARTIN posted was exactly the one I was talking about. Just as Pat did, I made my own, although not specifically for tri-topping... I use it mostly for custom serrations and the like. A little high school geometry and some creativity can do some amazing things! Ken

GREAT! Just freakin' GREAT! Thanks for giving me another project........ (In all seriousness, that's a great idea and something I've thought about, but never even put pen to paper about. Thnaks for sharing your find ) Ken

There are a couple things that can cause this, the lightweight carrier may be some of it, but may not be ALL of it.... Check your magazine and make sure the feed lips are in good shape and aren't damaged. That can cause a lot of drag and remove energy from the BCG. What kind of condition are your gas rings in? If they're way too tight it can cause resistance inside the carrier. you should be able to hold the BCG by the bolt and it not "unlock". If it takes some significant pressure to unlock the bolt in the carrier I'd suggest replacement of the rings just as I would if it fell free under the weight of the carrier. When you replace, make SURE the groove is clean! Once replaced, clean and lube the whole assembly according to the manual. AR's don't like to be dry. Also, make sure you're not riding the charging handle home. Pull it all the way back, and let it go. Or, use the bolt release. (that thing could be dragging on your carrier, but highly doubtful) Next check your extractor, it may have some burrs or a lot of crud built up in it causing it to bind and not slip over the cartridge rim. Hope this helps! Ken

There are jigs available for holding 1911 slides to do just that. If you don't have a jig you can accomplish the same thing with a couple angle blocks and some clamps. More difficult to set up, but it'll work if you're careful with your indicating and positioning. Ken

Winchester 748 is my dedicated 5.56mm powder... Usually 23.6gns topped with 55, 69, 77, or 80gn bullets with a CCI #41 primer. I get excellent accuracy, velocity, and zero pressure signs out of ANY of my AR's. I have shot many a 1/2 MOA and a few 3/8 MOA 10 round groups @ 200 with this load. Ken

Being a machinist, I get to play with really expensive machines.... Expensive machines that seem to have minds of their own! Tonight I was running two Citizen Cincom L20's.... I swear they communicate.... It was one thing after another, and another, and ANOTHER.... for TWELVE HOURS. Get one thing fixed, I'd find that the other had started screwing up.... change insert, offset change, etc. check on the other... Bar end dropped out in the stinkin' guide and barfeeder crammed another one through the guide bushing, cracking it... replaced that... get everything running... No sooner do I turn around and check parts on the other... It's center drill just went to crap.... Change THAT.... back up..... go and check other machine.... screw it.... You get the picture....... Every 20 minutes or so it was something.... To top it all off.... I get home and realize I don't have even a SINGLE BEER in the fridge! Ken

I go through this daily.... Honestly they must install a sock gnome in every clothes drier sold! He seems to branch out into parts, brass, keys...... anything not nailed down! Ken

Here is one link I found useful. http://www.nojolt.com/how-to-build-a-rotary-phase-converter.shtml Ken

I have personally never had much luck with frequency drives.... rotary phase converter has worked for me for quite some time. 'course, I built each to suit its application. There are several decent online tutorials for DIY phase converters, but they elude me at the moment. I'll post back if I can locate them. Ken

I've used both Morse and Lennox with equally satisfactory results. It just happens to be whatever my tool supplier has on sale in the size I need! The blade will only perform as well as the saw it's mounted on will let it. Ken

I'm just curious what you guys are using. I personally have two Kurts and a smaller GMT. The Kurts are 6" and 8" respectively, while the GMT is their 4" model. The Kurts are for holding the bigger projects, depending on the workpiece and how "aggressive" I'm going to be, and the GMT is great for those little oddball things, and it's small/light enough to be super easy to set up. What is your preference and why? Ken

The 555 is GREAT stuff, although as with all polishing, you have to really watch that you don't get carried away, clean your part often and make sure the wheel doesn't get overloaded, or run dry! That'll ruin your day (don't think I have to say how I know this....) LOL! Ken

Yet another question.... What is the length of the barrel extension from the front face to the surface that butts up against the upper receiver?? Hopefully someone has this handy, as scouring the web has given me zero info on the 9mm barrel. Thank you! Ken

Awesome! Thank you for your help! Ken

Glad you were able to get it moving as it should Do you have a source for quill locks? Need one for an Alliant 9x42 variable speed bridgeport clone... Ken

If anyone has a Colt style 9mm upper receiver handy, could you please tell me the length of the ejection port cover, and of the brass deflector? The height of the deflector at the front and rear would be really helpful too. Thank you! Ken

You may have a small piece of garbage in the leadscrew nut. While you have the table off, I'd check and make sure the screw itself isn't slightly tweaked, that can cause a lot of headaches! If that's not it.... I'll grab a chair in the same boat with you! Ken