Braxton1

Bobby Keigans at Freedom Gunworks did panel cuts similar to that on his slides, but I am pretty sure that the old Weigand scope mount pre-dates his work....

IIRC, the 170 number wasn't just snatched out of thin air. It was the approximate length of the Wilson 10-round .45ACP magazine. I will have to gauge one when I get home, but that's how memory serves....

I was a great fan of JMP, especially his teaching style. I read his book Shooting from Within on a regular basis and recommended it to others as "the Enos book...in colloquial Southern English...without a lot of Zen references". I wish it was still in-print (Glenn Zediker: Are you listening?) I once had a young student who could only perform a task after I proved to him that it COULD be done. For example, I'd task him to do 25 yard Upper-A shots. He'd miss 95% of them. I'd do the drill and he'd suddenly perform it. I told this kid that he'd never be any better than me because he wasn't willing to push himself to HIS limits, only to mine. I was frustrated, so I called Mike. When I threw the scenario at him, his reply was priceless. "Drop the kid. He's a waste of your time and talent and Daddy's money. Tell him to come back when he's ready to learn.". I had never thought of it that way. It really changed the way that I deal with students. (Coincidentally, the kid discovered cars and girls about that time, so he left the sport. I moved to ATL soon thereafter and lost contact with him.)

I would think that there'd be an old "Authorized Remington Service Center" near you.

Parts are STARTING to come out of RemArms (the new iteration of Remington). I'd be patient for right now and let the supply chain catch up.

Not to minimize the question, but you'll run into "It won't run" long before going light enough to crack the slide (assuming we're not talking 9Major here). Glocks aren't like 1911's in that sense. The Recoil Spring is in a battle with the Firing Pin Spring at two points during the cycle. Somewhere around 11#, you'll get where either the slide won't completely close upon chambering OR the FPS will pull the slide out-of-battery when the trigger is pressed.

Those results would almost surely be expected. The Performance Trigger holds the Firing Pin at full-cock. That's a little more resistance to the RSA than normal. On top of that, you bumped up from a lighter aftermarket spring back to the OEM. More resistance.... Then, with the super-light loads you're using, I'd almost suspect that you're not getting a full rearward travel of the slide, especially with the 15#. That saps off a little energy too, because the slide doesn't get a good running start against all the resistances of stripping the round off the feed lips, feeding, and chambering.

It's just a re-barrel job. The breechface is the same; extractor MIGHT need to be changed. That depends on the tension that the originally-installed extractor will exert on a 9mm case.

Mine was a drop-in, literally. Thumb safety worked perfectly. Of course, YMMV, especially with Springfields...

I did my Prodigy this weekend. EGW internals worked great, but the trigger bow (as mentioned by others) is different. I got it to an acceptable level with the OEM trigger, but I am exploring a Red Dirt trigger, just so I can take out some vertical slop. The hardest thing so far has been adding a magwell. I had to modify the heck out of the grip (particularly in the front lip area to get the Dawson ICE to fit. I had read on some forum that it was a simple matter of removing the small ridges on the side of the Prodigy grip module, but that was NOT the case. And when blending the grip to the ICE, one had better stop short of a full-blend. The polymer at the bottom of the grip gets REAL thin once you start getting close to "blended". I saw that this was going to be an issue, so I just chamfered edges and didn't go for the full job.

I just finished installing a PRP aluminum trigger kit in an XDm for a customer. It was NICE, because the over-travel was already pre-set. That eliminated a LOT of "put together/take apart", which is necessary to adjust the plastic triggers. The difference in price is $20, so the time savings alone might be worth it! I saw on their website where they offer a pre-fit Polymer trigger also, but I am in-love with the aluminum one now.

I would agree with Aaron_K and eboos above. A lot of the issues with this trigger have been caused by the Lower Lug of the OEM Firing Pin dragging on the Timney trigger bar, absorbing some of the energy of the strike. Timney used to sell an aftermarket Firing Pin whose Lower Lug was flat on the bottom, compared to the rounded radius of the OEM part. This greatly reduced that drag, plus had the further advantage of a crisper trigger because the sear was releasing across a broad surface, rather than one whose engagement area gets narrower the farther down the sear moves along its travel. AFAIK, they have discontinued their Firing Pin. I have been modifying OEM pins to replicate this engagement. With the Timney unit and OEM ones that I have seen modified, nearly 100% engagement has been maintained.

I just had three done by Mark Zamsky. One was a complete gun (CZ82) and two were 1911/2011 frame/slide combos. I sent them out on 20 March. He got them on 23 March. He called me yesterday ready to ship them back. So... a week-and-a-half turnaround time? Not bad, IMHO.

It could be either one. The length of Powder Funnels has changed in the past, so they'd need to be adjusted to the particular caliber (.38 Spl vs. .357 Mag) anyways.

I am a big fan of the Power Custom fixture for bench work, having owned one for many years. The Marvel Custom unit is nice for sears, plus it is more-portable. I keep one in my to-go toolbox that travels with me to matches. (The Power unit is anything but portable.) Lots of folks use the 1/2X1/2X6 Norton India stones for trigger work. Those work really well for cutting down hammer hooks, but I will use a similarly-sized Hard Arkansas stone for sear work. The Arkansas stones polish better. The Fine Nortons just ain't fine enough...

IF you have the machinery and skill to re-thread, you can always do that. Most revolver brands have different thread specs for their barrels and even those will vary amongst frame sizes. S&W specs are: J Frame, .500"-36 threads. K Frame, .540"-36 threads. L Frame, .562"-36 thread, N Frame, .670"-36 thread. I can't find the specs for the X Frames. Ruger GP-100s are .625-24 thread Old Python barrels were .553-32; newer ones are .562-36 That change might be why the SmYTHON is a thing.... (a Python barrel on a S&W 686 was a popular thing back in the late 80's) With that said, re-barreling revolvers (even staying with same model/threads) almost always requires a lathe. To get the barrel to "clock" right, a facing cut often needs to be made on the back of the barrel shoulder. And use a Frame Wrench. "Back in the day", it was common practice to vise up the barrel and cram a hammer handle into the frame to wrench the frame off of the barrel. Many a frame was "sprung" doing this....

Yep, Jarvis is still around (jarvis-custom.com), but it appears that they don't make revolver parts anymore. I don't know if they'd do a one-off part. The Windmaster was built by Bill Davis. That was one of his trademark touches, supposedly so that the gun wouldn't get blown around by the high winds at the PPC Nationals in Albuquerque (IIRC the location).

The Craftsman and Husky mobile workbenches are pretty good. They have a butcher block top, so they'll take some abuse as long as some effort is made to cushion them with mats, plus you get all that drawer storage space. They run about $500 each. I have 2 auto-driven 1050s on one of these. With all the weight in the drawers, it gets pretty stable.

Hey Nick, the reason the links are dead is that they're spelled wrong. It's POWERCUSTOM.com, not POWERS. I'd also try Clark Custom in Louisiana or Jarvis in Montana.

He was an incredibly innovative and talented machinist/pistolsmith. May he rest in peace.

IDPA Master in SSP, ESP, and CDP. Never could do it in REV.... USPSA Master in Prod and Limited.

If you have a 5mm end mill (the closest end mill size to a true .200"), you can successfully cut the lower lugs without a jig. Set-up will be the key, as with all milling operations. The Weigand jig just makes set-up ten times faster and easier.

Shoot...that rig is only "one-quarter sheet of 200 grit sandpaper" away from PERFECTION!

V-V's loading manual calls for 9.6 tp 10.6 of N-105 for the Hornady 180 grain XTP bullets and 9.0 to 10.0 for the 200 grain FMJs. https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/?cartridge=62 Opinion: Although it hits some nice velocities, I would think that a powder as slow as 105 would be relatively harsh recoiling.

When 1911's ruled the World: "Stoke it, Stroke it, Flick it, and Stick it" was my favorite....